The correct way to do an N249 bypass the full guide
- Thread starter mc funbot
- Start date
Ok mate I'm a newbie really to all this but will look at mine later and let u no we're the pipes go ect.
Pictures would help no end 
the link you posted is 1 way of doing it but it dont really gain anything its just moving pipes. FPR goes to the inlet mani 1 direct feed then dv to mani 1 direct feed if you want to install a boost gauge T in to the fPR vac will give you a good reading.
The other pipes you leave open on the side of the head if your not sure blow down then an find where the air comes out that way you no nothing is using it if that makes sence.
hope that helps
the link you posted is 1 way of doing it but it dont really gain anything its just moving pipes. FPR goes to the inlet mani 1 direct feed then dv to mani 1 direct feed if you want to install a boost gauge T in to the fPR vac will give you a good reading. The other pipes you leave open on the side of the head if your not sure blow down then an find where the air comes out that way you no nothing is using it if that makes sence.
hope that helps
And there u go saved me going out in the cold lol think u should move to west Yorkshire and be my neighbour haha still haven't got another DV yet but the more I play around with it it takes more time before going into limp mode. What I fully close it up would that stop it leaking if it is that?
lol think u should move to west Yorkshire and be my neighbour haha still haven't got another DV yet but the more I play around with it it takes more time before going into limp mode. What I fully close it up would that stop it leaking if it is that?
Pictures would help no end
The other pipes you leave open on the side of the head if your not sure blow down then an find where the air comes out that way you no nothing is using it if that makes sence.
hope that helps
I'll show you what I've got when I get home lol, at the moment it's setup like the link i posted earlier.
Blocked off pipes only at the moment (until I remove them) then...
DV to the nipple on the underside of the inlet manifold, T piece in line with it for the FPR
You mentioned a boost gauge, I run a boost gauge with another T piece in this setup as well....pictures will reveal all later hopefully
You wouldnt believe how many people drive to me for work. 1.8t stuff is all I tinker and build. Get a dv on and it should be ok. Ebay is the way forward mate. And you will have BOOOOOOST
Yes ill have a look at the pics an go from there.
Yes ill have a look at the pics an go from there.
I've just noticed that at low speeds and if I press the throttle peddle very very lightly you can feel the car holding back like its about to stall but put your foot down a bit more then it clears does that sound like a dv leaking at very low revs?
Yep I have this slight hesitation below 2000 rpm, it is better since n249 bypass, any way can someone throw up some pics of where and how the standard dv fits, went to replace the e.bay thing that's on it, but now I have a standard one, I can see the one on it is totally different, it sits free floating in the air just behind and above rear of engine, it has a silicone hose coming out of the left standard DV size going to a metal pipe to left rear of engine, then a smaller pipe, going to somewhere behind PCV valve ( N75 Valve ), then a smaller hose again ( 4mm ) going from a spill on the top of DV which bypasses N249, their is what looks like a place for a hose, just after the airbox, on the outlet pipe from airbox, which has a bung in it, I assume this is where the standard DV or forge 007 etc goes to.
Help !!!!!!
Cheers Chris
Help !!!!!!
Cheers Chris
Last edited:
okay here we go...
N249 bypass based on previous link with T piece between FPR, DV & Inlet Mani
T piece in place near DV for boost gauge
You guide suggests just one pipe from DV to the Mani, where does the FPR connect to then?
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I read somewhere that you get most accurate reading for boost gauge of the nipple on top of the throttle body. I tried it but got a weird clicking noise coming through my boost gauge so swapped it back
You can its a vac feed depending on set ups can run dv of there aswell. Clicking could of been from the carbon can mate.
Right after getting my car back off my lass as she's been driving it all week another thing as come up witch she didn't tell me. When driving in any gear and let off the throttle so it's using the engine to slow down there's a scraping noise but dip the clutch it goes away or put your foot on the accelerator and it goes away just when you let off the throttle in gear if its ticking over clutch in or out no noise as I thought that could be the release bearing?
this might be worth a read: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...tch-disengagement-issues-mainshaft-axial-play
Cheers pal will have a look at mine tomoz that video looks a piece ov Piss if that does cure that noise .
.
I've got a dump valve to try mate but it's only got one opening can I just block off one ov the pipes?
That will make all kinds of problems. Inbox me im sure I have a stock one. If you run one of the dv your car will stall an cut out stall the turbo aswell an can force oil out of places :s
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