IH786's LCR BBT K04 - Full spec list on page 1!! / Colour change - Finished?

[IH786]

And the next problem (damn I have gone onto the next page!)...

Ever since the car has been back on the road (Oct/Nov) the ESP comes on when I turn left at speed.

Totally saps the enjoyment of driving the car. Even with the ESP switched off it is still not completely off and still flashes occasionally.

So when I changed the suspension and polybushed everything I did get the car alignment done. It took it to a local ATS - they never provided me with any print out and did not mention that anything looked wrong.

I didn't have time to take it anywhere decent as I did it the same day before I took it to R Tech.

Now again I had a good think and I was concerned the donor wishbones I polybushed could be bent. They came off a LCR I broke and although it had no suspension damage you can never be too sure.

So this past weekend I took the wishbones off and fitted the ones off my dead S3.

Did it make any difference?

NO

In fact the light started to flash when you turn right too!

Obviously when you remove the wishbones the alignment goes out of whack a bit. I just wanted to eliminate any possibility that the wishbones are bent. And thankfully they don't appear to be.

So once I get the clutch changed (will drop the subframe) I will take it to a proper wheel alignment place.

Hopefully if the suspension is aligned correctly and nothing is bent it should all be sorted.

Fingers crossed - I need something to go right for me

 

[wild willy]

Syphoning can be prevented pre TB by setting the delivery hose higher than the tank.

 

[IH786]

And finally - overboosting.

To summarise:

1. Car 5hat itself of most its oil on the motorway
2. MAF and air filter get soaked in oil
3. Ever since then the car has been boosting up to 25-30PSI.

So far I have:

1. Checked for boost leaks - none found.
2. Disconnected N75 - still overboosts (but not as much)
3. Bypassed N75 and ran a pipe direct from inlet mani to actuator - still overboosts.
4. Swapped N75 and MAF - still overboosts
5. Changed pre cat lamda (had error code) - still overboosts

My money is on a failed actuator - but how can this happen after only 1000 miles???

Also it seems too much of a coincidence that it all started to do it after my oil leak.

My MAF has been cleaned and I don't get any error codes. It runs worse when the MAF is disconnected.

I am all out of ideas really. With all of the other issues its hard to know which one to concentrate on!

At the moment I am driving carefully - with one eye on the boost gauge to make sure I don't go over 20 PSI.

Plan is to:

1. Fit new clutch and bed in properly this time!
2. Sort out the WMI once and for all
3. Get aligment done properly and pray the ESP light issue is fixed

Then take it back to R Tech and see if they can sort this overboosting out.

Its going to be a long hard slog - but I will get there!!

 

[IH786]

That is some bad luck mate, joys of modified cars

Yep the joys of modded cars Had lots of people telling me to transplant the engine / turbo etc into the S3 but I have am too attached to my LCR to let it die!

The SEM intake is a bit over kill on Hybrids I think. As you said Prawn has managed just fine without it. Money would be better spent on the clutch.

Agreed - I am not in a rush to sell. Will wait until someone pays me the right price for it.

You poor *******

Seriously hard time of it lately!!!

Not wrong mate - I haven't posted for a while as it has just been one thing after another. Also writing down everything makes me realise just how bad it is!

Syphoning can be prevented pre TB by setting the delivery hose higher than the tank.

I think with my tank being in the boot its going to be hard for me to change the height now. I think the solenoid should do the trick.

Once it is all sorted it would be interesting to see how much power it makes. The spec has changed since it was last mapped.

Plus points:

1. B5 TIP replacing SFS
2. Thicker phenolic spacer

Negative points:

1. SEM gone

Undecided:

1. Twin nozzle WMI by TB to a single nozzle close to FMIC outlet.

I am quietly confident that the car will make the same power as before. The lack of the SEM is a worry - but the other things may tip the balance back in my favour.

But thats a long way away - need to get the damn thing running right first

 

[Ronin225]

As far as you're ESP problems are concerned, its a problem i've had for years
It use to kick in on long slow sweeping bends, fast chicanes anything really. It got better after polying my rear beam bushes and changing to a different brand of tyres
I've spoken to friend and when he gets time he plans to alter the softcoding in the ABS control module to keep ABS, EBD etc but totally remove the ESP like the R32 race cars

 

[CharlieRCupes]

I used to suffer from this a lot but it's got better since fitting new tires and polybushes. Still a pain in the arse though, seems to do it when it feels like it.

 

[ibizacupra]

boost pipe direct to actuator and still high boost?

stuck wastegate? does it open if you pump air into it?

 

[IH786]

As far as you're ESP problems are concerned, its a problem i've had for years
It use to kick in on long slow sweeping bends, fast chicanes anything really. It got better after polying my rear beam bushes and changing to a different brand of tyres
I've spoken to friend and when he gets time he plans to alter the softcoding in the ABS control module to keep ABS, EBD etc but totally remove the ESP like the R32 race cars

I used to suffer from this a lot but it's got better since fitting new tires and polybushes. Still a pain in the arse though, seems to do it when it feels like it.

I never had this problem until I fitted the polybushes and coilovers. Have had the car for nearly 5 years and done over 70,000 miles.

It must be bad alignment. Once I get that sorted and I know everything is straight and true then I will consider having it permanently disabled.

 

[IH786]

boost pipe direct to actuator and still high boost?

stuck wastegate? does it open if you pump air into it?

Yep still high boost with a boost pipe direct to the actuator.

So to test the actuator I need to pump air into it? If it opens smoothly then all is ok?

 

[ibizacupra]

yes, and see what pressure its opening at if its holding pressure, and if the wg penny/arm is fully opening.
i use a mityvac for these tests

 

[IH786]

yes, and see what pressure its opening at if its holding pressure, and if the wg penny/arm is fully opening.
i use a mityvac for these tests

Hi Bill I tested the actuator this weekend when I was fitting my new clutch and flyhweel (pics to be uploaded later)

Anyway I was struggling to find anything suitable for pumping air into the actuator that had a gauge to measure PSI.

I used an air line that is hooked up to a compressor at my uncles garage - he has a few air tools

At very low pressure the actuator did not move - all I could hear was some hissing - this was coming from the actuator itself - air is leaking from where the arm comes out of the actuator if that makes sense?

Pushing up the pressure a bit more and the arm moves - it needs a lot of pressure to do this and of course the air leaking out of the actuator increases too.

I have taken a video of it - won't be able to upload until I get home this evening (currently at work).

I am pretty sure the actuator is goosed??

Want to let CR know as soon as possible so they can send me out a new actuator. I don't want them to say "send it back so we can test it" - which will leave me without my car for a week or so

Cheers

P.S. On the plus side the Helix paddle with the OEM DMF and pressure plate feels much better than the SMF it was running before

 

[JDUB 20V]

Imran hope you get this sorted soon bud

 

[ibizacupra]

it should'nt hiss as you correctly say

 

[MattJAbela]

Car looks like it'll be brilliant once its all up and running mate!! Sorry to hear about the problems though. I'm sure that they'll get sorted.

 

[IH786]

it should'nt hiss as you correctly say

Yep here is a video:



Called CR and explained what was up - they are sending me a new actuator tomorrow.

It better last longer than the old one!!

 

[IH786]

Fitted my new clutch this weekend.

So went for an OEM (LUK) DMF and Pressure Plate coupled with a Helix Paddle Clutch Plate:

Flywheel looking nice and shiny:

Not the most fun job in the world - I like to have good access to everything so removed the subframe - means the job takes a lot longer than a garage would take. On the plus side labour is free

Was a bit worried about how the paddle clutch would feel - it just looks so extreme!

So felt a bit nervous when I took it for the test drive.....

But I am happy for report it feels great

Massive improvement over the SMF I was running before - car feels so much smoother.

Clutch is fine in traffic - biting point is easy to find. Just a very slight judder (and I mean slight) when initially pulling away but thats it.

So with the clutch in and the actuator on its way - the car is on the road to recovery

 

[ReDBull]

You've had a rough time of it!

 

[JDUB 20V]

Good stuff, will have to pop by and see how this performs sometime

 

[wild willy]

Interesting choice on clutch ingredients, i'm in the same boat but am swayed to sticking with dual mass also but a bit worried about pick and mix but cost is a big factor. Your clearly handy with a spanner.

 

[ibizacupra]

Yep here is a video:



Called CR and explained what was up - they are sending me a new actuator tomorrow.

It better last longer than the old one!!

that hiss from the actuator or airline blowing (unknown) pressure