what have you done to your car today ?

[skeenofr]

Btw this is the MK1 section, you may want to skip over to the MK3 folks

Sorry

 

[iammooks]

Sorry

All we do here is complain about leaks - oil, coolant, boost pipes, weather seals...

I hear that in the mk3 forum they actually get to drive their cars occasionally.


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[skeenofr]

All we do here is complain about leaks - oil, coolant, boost pipes, weather seals...

I hear that in the mk3 forum they actually get to drive their cars occasionally.


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Ha ha I will head over to the MK3 but then

 

[iammooks]

Speaking of leaks, I've still got mine. I've had a towel weighed down in the driver's footwell for the past few days, and I checked it today and it was soaking. The passenger footwell is dry, so it's either the driver's door or it's the scuttle. Either way, I'll be doing some work next week...


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[Nam-uk]

Speaking of leaks, I've still got mine. I've had a towel weighed down in the driver's footwell for the past few days, and I checked it today and it was soaking. The passenger footwell is dry, so it's either the driver's door or it's the scuttle. Either way, I'll be doing some work next week...


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run a hose pipe over the window with door open if its that seal again you'll see the leak soon, just crack the panel a bit, if not that saves you stripping it all out, if its drivers side it cant be the pollen filter box seal, on drivers side there is that same sealing foam but the body is raised up there, i never did seal that due to that but I've read in the past the Gromit for the main wire can leak but that's raised up also

 

[skeenofr]

Best of luck m8. You'll find helpful advice from those in the know
As above, we don't get around to mods...just repairs
Enjoy

May invest in one then need something to do ha ha

 

[paradyne]

Not wanting to miss out on the leaks theme - my passenger rear door doesnt seem to seal 100% - so water gets in near the top of the pillar, runs down the inside of the door, then drips gather on bottom of door and fall onto the door rubber/sill. Definitely doesnt appear to be the window motor carrier plate though as that was sealed up in the past

Have tried silicone greasing the rubber seal and it looks ok, but I can only assume it just doesnt seal tight enough up against the door to prevent some water ingress. Short of a new, unbtainable seal, are there any other options?

 

[Alexis27]

Got the lithium grease out and applied it to the gear linkage. A lot smoother now.

Apply to the shaft (1) and push it up and down a few times.

Also remove the clip at (3) and blast it into the cylinder.

 

[iammooks]

Not wanting to miss out on the leaks theme - my passenger rear door doesnt seem to seal 100% - so water gets in near the top of the pillar, runs down the inside of the door, then drips gather on bottom of door and fall onto the door rubber/sill. Definitely doesnt appear to be the window motor carrier plate though as that was sealed up in the past

Have tried silicone greasing the rubber seal and it looks ok, but I can only assume it just doesnt seal tight enough up against the door to prevent some water ingress. Short of a new, unbtainable seal, are there any other options?

I hadn't thought of using silicone spray on the seals - might have to give that a go. Judging from the state of my old lock on the nearside, I'm thinking that water is getting in either the way you're describing, or it's getting in around the curve of the wheel arch. I've got a slightly larger gap there than in the rest of the door, so wondered if there's an issue around there. If it's that, I have no idea how I'd fix it...

If it's what you describe, it might just be a matter of adjusting the strike plate - they go up and down as well as inwards and outwards and a tighter fit might just be what sorts it.

Looking at the sills, it's worth checking to make sure everything is flush. Where I've pulled the carpet up a few times to put towels on the sound deadening, I noticed that when I pulled the carpet out from under the plastic trim, it lifted the trim out of its retaining clips and wasn't back in properly. Be warned - you have to go all the way back to the boot trim if you want to do it properly - I tried to manhandle it back in, but the plastic trim that's level with the seat backs has to slot into the trim lower down, and it's really hard to get everything where it should be and not end up breaking clips etc. if the upper trim piece is still in place. Then it's a matter of working the rubber lip on the sill over the trim piece.

Utter ball-ache that was to do today. Hands are raw now.

Got the lithium grease out and applied it to the gear linkage. A lot smoother now.

Apply to the shaft (1) and push it up and down a few times.

Also remove the clip at (3) and blast it into the cylinder.

I did that a couple of years ago, but have noticed recently that my shifts still feel pretty notchy. Starting to think about changing transmission fluid, as it's never been changed...

 

[Nam-uk]

Got the lithium grease out and applied it to the gear linkage. A lot smoother now.

Apply to the shaft (1) and push it up and down a few times.

Also remove the clip at (3) and blast it into the cylinder.

number 3 is were it can seize

 

[Nam-uk]

I hadn't thought of using silicone spray on the seals - might have to give that a go. Judging from the state of my old lock on the nearside, I'm thinking that water is getting in either the way you're describing, or it's getting in around the curve of the wheel arch. I've got a slightly larger gap there than in the rest of the door, so wondered if there's an issue around there. If it's that, I have no idea how I'd fix it...

If it's what you describe, it might just be a matter of adjusting the strike plate - they go up and down as well as inwards and outwards and a tighter fit might just be what sorts it.

Looking at the sills, it's worth checking to make sure everything is flush. Where I've pulled the carpet up a few times to put towels on the sound deadening, I noticed that when I pulled the carpet out from under the plastic trim, it lifted the trim out of its retaining clips and wasn't back in properly. Be warned - you have to go all the way back to the boot trim if you want to do it properly - I tried to manhandle it back in, but the plastic trim that's level with the seat backs has to slot into the trim lower down, and it's really hard to get everything where it should be and not end up breaking clips etc. if the upper trim piece is still in place. Then it's a matter of working the rubber lip on the sill over the trim piece.

Utter ball-ache that was to do today. Hands are raw now.



I did that a couple of years ago, but have noticed recently that my shifts still feel pretty notchy. Starting to think about changing transmission fluid, as it's never been changed...

there's no service schedule on the gearbox oil well any car, most recommend 100k or hard/ruff gear change

 

[Nam-uk]

Not wanting to miss out on the leaks theme - my passenger rear door doesnt seem to seal 100% - so water gets in near the top of the pillar, runs down the inside of the door, then drips gather on bottom of door and fall onto the door rubber/sill. Definitely doesnt appear to be the window motor carrier plate though as that was sealed up in the past

Have tried silicone greasing the rubber seal and it looks ok, but I can only assume it just doesnt seal tight enough up against the door to prevent some water ingress. Short of a new, unbtainable seal, are there any other options?

any water marks on the roof covering?

 

[MoToJoJo]

Put it in for MoT.







It passed

 

[Alexis27]

there's no service schedule on the gearbox oil well any car, most recommend 100k or hard/ruff gear change

Changed mine at 98K. A bit better but not massively.

 

[BadBoy03]

number 3 is were it can seize

That's interesting, I need to look at that then.

 

[Nam-uk]

Changed mine at 98K. A bit better but not massively.

What’s your brake fluid like as that’s used to slow clutch down

 

[Alexis27]

What’s your brake fluid like as that’s used to slow clutch down

Needs changing. Tested it with a multimeter the other week and it was 0.3V

 

[Nam-uk]

Needs changing. Tested it with a multimeter the other week and it was 0.3V

Never heard of testing brake fluid like that wtf lol, how you do that then?

 

[Alexis27]

You put the red probe into the brake fluid reservoir and the black onto the bare metal of the brake cylinder underneath. The voltage reading corresponds with the amount of moisture in the fluid. 0.3V = 3% moisture and it's due for a change

 

[Nam-uk]

You put the red probe into the brake fluid reservoir and the black onto the bare metal of the brake cylinder underneath. The voltage reading corresponds with the amount of moisture in the fluid. 0.3V = 3% moisture and it's due for a change

what reading is it when its ok?