what have you done to your car today ?

[Sparkie]

Don't suppose you've got your alignment settings handy do you? When I saw it I thought "Looks like running too much camber and cooking the edge"

Tyre inflation info too would be good

Thanks for the reply
Camber set to standard as no adjustable top mounts. Tyres had them 30 psi hot. Roughly.
We thought about camber but it’s always been the same.


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[MoToJoJo]

30psi hot... a tad low but unless the R888R is that fussy about pressure it shouldn't wear like that. Of course this assumes that's relatively consistent all round. Got pictures of the tyre from the other side?

Aside from the tyre, it just screams something wrong with the alignment, be it toe, worn joints etc.

 

[Sparkie]

30psi hot... a tad low but unless the R888R is that fussy about pressure it shouldn't wear like that. Of course this assumes that's relatively consistent all round. Got pictures of the tyre from the other side?

Aside from the tyre, it just screams something wrong with the alignment, be it toe, worn joints etc.

Cheers for replying
30-31 hot. Car felt stable
Others were saying toyo 888 should be run low but I wasn’t down with them being lower.
Something afoot with geometry? Yup. I’m with you on all that.
It’s going back on the ramp soon. We did a check recently on the front end. Anti rill bar bushing was the only thing visible that is near needing replacing.

The other front tyre has worn much better but again there is slightly more wear to the inside edge. Being a clockwise circuit this time out we expected the main wear to be on the front left tyre but it killed the right.
I k no ow there’s big camber in the road at Mallory such as the hairpin which would account for the right front to be abused. Also into start finish it’s off camber left turn. So again could be wearing the right front.
Car was cocking a rear wheel in the hairpin so was pushing through there too.
Maybe this has been a factor?


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[MoToJoJo]

Fair play for cocking a wheel! I'm guessing it was the right rear so I don't suspect it (the weight transfer would be diagonal).

If anything I'd suspect the long turn 1 as it's pretty high speed and the inside tyre is rolling towards its inside edge. The off camber stuff won't help but I don't think it's enough to kill the tyre

Toyo do a ballpark number for pressure (click here) but it's probably not that

 

[Sparkie]

Fair play for cocking a wheel! I'm guessing it was the right rear so I don't suspect it (the weight transfer would be diagonal).

If anything I'd suspect the long turn 1 as it's pretty high speed and the inside tyre is rolling towards its inside edge. The off camber stuff won't help but I don't think it's enough to kill the tyre

Toyo do a ballpark number for pressure (click here) but it's probably not that

Thanks, that was worth reading.
So maybe pressures were a little high and my pal was right re that bit.
It’s something I’m not experienced with tbh.
Yea as you’ve said long turn 1 Gerrards I was giving the diff a full workout lots of squealing!
I do like to push till it gets a little loose so that can’t help. Was averaging 85-90 round it.
Would stiffening the front suspension a little reduce the roll of the tyre and in turn wear?
I get it’s a balance between suspension handling and tyre grip.
Guess I have to find that balance but pressure may play a big part as I was way off.


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[MoToJoJo]

Dunno about setup as I don't know the stuff you're running etc.

Best way to know what works is a tyre pyrometer as you're trying to keep it within an operating window across the full surface. Probe is best, you can use a cheap infrared thermometer but it takes a bit of skill to use.

You want the tyre to deform (roll) laterally, it's how they work to produce grip (don't ask me to explain, I've tried wrapping my head round the science a few times and I still barely grasp it).

 

[Sparkie]

Dunno about setup as I don't know the stuff you're running etc.

Best way to know what works is a tyre pyrometer as you're trying to keep it within an operating window across the full surface. Probe is best, you can use a cheap infrared thermometer but it takes a bit of skill to use.

You want the tyre to deform (roll) laterally, it's how they work to produce grip (don't ask me to explain, I've tried wrapping my head round the science a few times and I still barely grasp it).

I shall invest in a pyrometer.
Thank you for your input. Cheers bud.


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[BadBoy03]

Few laps of Mallory Park
Getting the feel of the track

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Awesome vid & glad MoToJoJo has been able to help ya out.

 

[andylong]

30 psi seems low on the fronts, your dynamic loading will require some offset in tyre pressures you wouldn't need on the road.
Raising the pressures will help support the sidewall and so the edit tread blocks.

 

[andylong]

I'd also be looking at the toe settings aswell as the camber given the uneven, wheel to wheel, wear.
Back in the day track setup was alot of tyres and what seemed overkill or insignificant pressure wise and alignment wise often was not and we spent a good amount of time taking tyre temps.

 

[Sparkie]

30 psi seems low on the fronts, your dynamic loading will require some offset in tyre pressures you wouldn't need on the road.
Raising the pressures will help support the sidewall and so the edit tread blocks.

Yes learning as I go.
I discussed pressures and sidewall on a day at Bedford. With an instructor there. But I was on AD08’s back then.

Having been directed to Toyos site I saw this which puts me not too far away hot I think.
What do you think. They state quite low pressures cold?


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[andylong]

Tyres will get very warm, as you know, on track.
After a warm up few laps we'd come in to set tyre pressures.
Ofcourse at each race the tyres would get to similar temps so once cold you could use that as the base pressure to start with.
Because the tyres were getting hammered the tyre pressures were higher than on the road to try to keep things square, around 10% over STD cold pressures when hot.
It varied tho to get the over understeer right.
With a road tyre tho it's a big ask, they aren't made for such temps.
Track tyres worked a lot better.

 

[MoToJoJo]

Oh, I dunno about helped, long as I haven't bored and/or utterly misled people then goal achieved

Course now I'm also looking at tyre pyrometers, not planning on any track days this year but...

 

[andylong]

Get a cheap digital meat thermometer.
Check it reads 100C in boiling water and 37C in your mouth or other orifice. Be careful it's pointy.
Should be plenty accurate and the meat probe thingy will poke into the tyre and measure the temp under the surface

 

[andylong]

Here's one for a 5er

Digital Meat Thermometers, Instant Read Thermometer With Backlight Lcd Screen And Foldable Long Temperature Probe, Meat Thermometer Probe For Cooking, Bbq, Water, Meat, Milk Food Thermometer. https://amzn.eu/d/edXrZgC

You'll be able to tell if your tyres are medium or well done.

 

[Sparkie]

Get a cheap digital meat thermometer.
Check it reads 100C in boiling water and 37C in your mouth or other orifice. Be careful it's pointy.
Should be plenty accurate and the meat probe thingy will poke into the tyre and measure the temp under the surface

quite pointy!


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[Sparkie]

Here's one for a 5er

Digital Meat Thermometers, Instant Read Thermometer With Backlight Lcd Screen And Foldable Long Temperature Probe, Meat Thermometer Probe For Cooking, Bbq, Water, Meat, Milk Food Thermometer. https://amzn.eu/d/edXrZgC

You'll be able to tell if your tyres are medium or well done.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Alexis27]

The nightmare continues. After driving for 2 weeks with the window taped up and tackled the regulator.

Managed to slide the glass behind the plastic wedge on the regulator and get it completely and utterly wedged in the door.

It's slid out of its channel and got completely stuck. An hour of swearing and it's going to need smashing and replacing. I don't think I could have got it wedged like I have even if I'd tried.

Off to get some replacement glass this evening. Then I'm taking it to the garage because I've had enough of it.

Watched some videos from other manufacturers and they're not stupid enough to think a plastic peg stuck in some glass is a good solution.

 

[BadBoy03]

The nightmare continues. After driving for 2 weeks with the window taped up and tackled the regulator.

Managed to slide the glass behind the plastic wedge on the regulator and get it completely and utterly wedged in the door.

It's slid out of its channel and got completely stuck. An hour of swearing and it's going to need smashing and replacing. I don't think I could have got it wedged like I have even if I'd tried.

Off to get some replacement glass this evening. Then I'm taking it to the garage because I've had enough of it.

Watched some videos from other manufacturers and they're not stupid enough to think a plastic peg stuck in some glass is a good solution.

That's bad luck & a pain in the arse you just don't need. Hope it works out.

 

[Alexis27]

Set off to get the replacement glass... dead battery.

No idea why. Had enough of it for today