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what have you done to your car today ?
- Thread starter seatcupramad23
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Ooof!
Badger5 Custom Map + TIP,
3”Custom exhaust, FMIC, Bosh 550’s, BC Coilovers, ARB’s +loads more.
Bah..! That just needs a respray...
It polished out fine. I don't know what the insurance company was so worried about.
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I guess the insurance guys feared you were opening space for a FMIC.
Shocks are fighting me. Got the hub spreader tool in fine and there's free movement, but I can't get the shock itself free from the knuckle. It's like I need an extra inch to get the lower leg out but there's no room.
I was going to put it back together and try to compress the spring, but the retaining clip isn't going in straight when I try to jack it up enough to get room at the top to compress the spring.
It's the driver's side. Does anyone have any tips?
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I was going to put it back together and try to compress the spring, but the retaining clip isn't going in straight when I try to jack it up enough to get room at the top to compress the spring.
It's the driver's side. Does anyone have any tips?
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Just go for WD40 and a hammer.Shocks are fighting me. Got the hub spreader tool in fine and there's free movement, but I can't get the shock itself free from the knuckle. It's like I need an extra inch to get the lower leg out but there's no room.
I was going to put it back together and try to compress the spring, but the retaining clip isn't going in straight when I try to jack it up enough to get room at the top to compress the spring.
It's the driver's side. Does anyone have any tips?
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That's what I thought at first, but I don't even need the mallet because the lower leg is totally loose. There's just not enough room to get it out.
I've managed to get the leg back in, but there's really no room at the top to compress the spring - even if I do it the reverse way where you go in through the top mount.
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The first comment on that video solved it.
Jack up the control arm to compress the spring, put the spring compressor on upside down and wind it up, release the jack and there's enough room to get it out.
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It’s been one of those days. I don’t understand why it’s so difficult sometimes.
Both front shocks are out and ready to go back in, but even with the springs compressed, the fact that the new shocks are actually working properly means I can’t get them back into the knuckle. I feel like the easy way of doing it would be to push the shock so it compresses, but that’s easier said than done when you’re actually at the car and you’re also knackered from a day of trying to get it all done.
All the videos make it look easy - and they have plenty of room to line up the lower part of the shock in the knuckle and then jack it up to get the bolt in. I don’t understand why they can do it but on my car there’s just no room.
Made the mistake of taking out the three ball joint bolts in the hope I’d get more room, but even then I can get the shock in the knuckle, but it’s not straight and won’t slot in properly. That and the fact it’s a pain in the arse to get the ball joint back in the control arm. That’s what you get when you’re tired and start doing things you haven’t thought through.
At least I got the boost pipe fitted. I had to take out the fog light to be able to get the clips back on, but it’s solid now - if a little squashed. I’ll have to keep an eye on that.
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Both front shocks are out and ready to go back in, but even with the springs compressed, the fact that the new shocks are actually working properly means I can’t get them back into the knuckle. I feel like the easy way of doing it would be to push the shock so it compresses, but that’s easier said than done when you’re actually at the car and you’re also knackered from a day of trying to get it all done.
All the videos make it look easy - and they have plenty of room to line up the lower part of the shock in the knuckle and then jack it up to get the bolt in. I don’t understand why they can do it but on my car there’s just no room.
Made the mistake of taking out the three ball joint bolts in the hope I’d get more room, but even then I can get the shock in the knuckle, but it’s not straight and won’t slot in properly. That and the fact it’s a pain in the arse to get the ball joint back in the control arm. That’s what you get when you’re tired and start doing things you haven’t thought through.
At least I got the boost pipe fitted. I had to take out the fog light to be able to get the clips back on, but it’s solid now - if a little squashed. I’ll have to keep an eye on that.
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I can't tell from your pic if the arb drop link has been removed for more lower arm travel?
When I did my suspension (lcr), I removed the 3 bolts on the ball joint end and levered the lower arm down with my jack handle.
It was a pain without the proper splitter tool and yes a hammer was involved!
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When I did my suspension (lcr), I removed the 3 bolts on the ball joint end and levered the lower arm down with my jack handle.
It was a pain without the proper splitter tool and yes a hammer was involved!
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Took the drop link bolt out when I was taking everything apart, and that definitely gave me more room to play with.
I think removal was easier because I could compress the shock, and because they were shagged, there was no real pressure pushing the shock back out to its full length. Because the new ones are fully pressurised, and so it’s both harder to compress, but also returns to its full length really quickly even if I can compress it.
I’m going to give it another go this morning with the ball joint out of the control arm. The trouble is I’m knackered now, and that makes me do stupid things.
It’s just weird though - there are loads of videos on YouTube where they just put the top in and tighten the top mounts, and then there’s loads of room underneath to get the lower into the knuckle - even without undoing the ball joint or the driveshaft - they just slot it in and jack it up to tighten.
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I know what you mean regarding how-to videos! It's always so quick and easy.
I work in a lay-by with limited tools and experience.
I'm trying to remember if I unbolted the driveshaft. I probably did, as there were no issues with space for the shock coming off or going on and the lower arm had loads of travel.
It was only a year ago, my memory is getting worse!
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I work in a lay-by with limited tools and experience.
I'm trying to remember if I unbolted the driveshaft. I probably did, as there were no issues with space for the shock coming off or going on and the lower arm had loads of travel.
It was only a year ago, my memory is getting worse!
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I would’ve thought that removing the driveshaft would be needed for the max drop/space 
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The trouble is that now the shocks and wheels are very much off, I'm not going to be able to get the driveshaft nut off.
With the ball joint bolts out, I can get the shock onto but not into the knuckle. Maybe doing that and then getting the bolts back in I might be able to either jack it into place, or lever it in.
Just to say as well, they're definitely the right shock...! I was a bit anxious when I compared them at first because the new was at least an inch longer, but I could pull out that extra inch from the old shock. The passenger side doesn't even extend back out...
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With the ball joint bolts out, I can get the shock onto but not into the knuckle. Maybe doing that and then getting the bolts back in I might be able to either jack it into place, or lever it in.
Just to say as well, they're definitely the right shock...! I was a bit anxious when I compared them at first because the new was at least an inch longer, but I could pull out that extra inch from the old shock. The passenger side doesn't even extend back out...
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From my point of view you have to take out the driveshaft or you won't get clearance.
Goes in OK with the three ball joint bolts out. Now I just have to get those ******* things back in the slot in the control arm...
I have no idea why it's worked today and not yesterday. All I've done differently is used a wire brush on the knuckle and smeared it liberally with copper ease.
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Thanks everyone for all your patience. Both sides are back in now. I managed to tear the boot on the offside ball joint, so rather than put that back together, I'm just going to order a new one and wait to put it back on its wheels when I've fitted that.
Just got to do the rears now and barring any surprises with the top mounts there, I should have that done quickly enough. I'm sure this post will age well though - expect me to be complaining about a snapped bolt or something later in the week.
It's not like I can drive anywhere at the moment anyway - 1/4 of a tank isn't going to last long if the whole petrol station thing doesn't work itself out in a few days.
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Just got to do the rears now and barring any surprises with the top mounts there, I should have that done quickly enough. I'm sure this post will age well though - expect me to be complaining about a snapped bolt or something later in the week.
It's not like I can drive anywhere at the moment anyway - 1/4 of a tank isn't going to last long if the whole petrol station thing doesn't work itself out in a few days.
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