replace lock or if you got an old one with motor working , swap motor overHow did you sort it??
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
one thing i did not have to do as its not metallic its in the paint mix, lacquer is a dam pain and weather has tobe bang on, checking all rear lights now after that as sometimes you can get leaks from what I've read , first one m8 bolt missing and a stud thats fixed in rear light the plastic cracked so used resin to set stud over night and sealed the seals that were coming off, some crap behind them i can tell you.. but don't want sneaky rust.Yeah, I need to re-lacquer mine. Just waiting for it to stop bloody raining.
my boot was sticking and thought the struts were gone but they opened fully, only reason i noticed as i cracked my head on boot, proper spilt head open dam bloody all overplace and hurt, anyway i removed both one at a time propping up boot , like said dead easy and cleaned the knuckle joints then added copper grease and refit, they open fully now and i don't have to wear a hard hat lol, take it £15 there aftermarket as I've seen gen on ebay for allot dearerRemembered to shove some bubble wrap around the offside boot strut before driving home today and didn't have any knocking sounds on the way. Had a look at the bottom of it, and it definitely looks like it's not as healthy as it should be. I've got to drive to Crawley tomorrow for my Covid vaccine, so will put the bubble wrap back, and if it doesn't make any noise, I'll buy some new struts. They're only about £15, so they're not going to break the bank, and anything that solves that annoying knocking sound is worth every penny.
There's probably a guide somewhere, but if anyone has any tips for taking them off, that'd be great.
Could it be something rattling about in the spare wheel well? Locking wheel nut socket?
on the boot lid there is adjustable bumper stops on edge have you checked them as they can move, also on the rear were the boot closes there is two hard rubber guide wedges for the boot lid as the boot has the hard rubber guides as well think there for the lid not to go two far down so you don't get knocking, the screws can loosen off as mine have look at them never got the metallic noise you say though but worth looking at, I've adjusted mine to fully to top but you need torx bits.The struts definitely aren't as strong as they used to be, so I'm just putting an order in now.
While the strut was wrapped in bubble wrap today though, I could still hear the sound. It can't be anything related to the suspension and it sounds more like a tap than a creak, so I'm starting to wonder if there's a wiring loom or a hose that could be knocking against the body. It does tend to be when the car jolts or goes over bumps, but it's not every time, which is why I don't think it's anything to do with the suspension, as that would probably happen every time the car hit a bump.
When I've got the inclination, I might take off the shroud in the boot and see if there's anything loose there, or at least wrap things up or tape things down if I need to, but if anyone knows what's hiding behind the offside rear panel, that'd be really handy.
Luv my car again!!!!!!!!
So managed to get the passenger door open by removing the interior handle and pulling on the cable.
Thought it was just sticking so reconnected it and put back together and guess what - when I locked/unlocked car the bl**dy door wouldn’t open
So handle off again, door card off, prised out rubber grommet at rear of door and found problem: the cable end had popped out of the door module bracket, only allowing the cable to move a wee amount. Popped the rubber bit back into the bracket and I now have my door opening as it should
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk