what have you done to your car today ?

[iammooks]

Getting it clean to say goodbye tomorrow

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I have a love/hate relationship with mine, but there's an attachment there. At some point in the future I'll be moving to France with my girlfriend, and even now I feel sad at the prospect of selling it.

Hope it's not something you'll come to regret.


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[Rich.T]

Trading it in bud, now at 160 thou miles it's getting ropey

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What are you getting next?

 

[supersticky]

I've had 5 mk1's. 1 180auq and 4 pd150's I'm still fluffy about them...love them but they are getting on now, traded it for a Exeo st sport.
I will still be flashing any mk1's that pass

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[Rich.T]

I like the Exeo.
I went off of them when i did a cambelt on one (twas a sh!tter though).
Im not a mechanic anymore so if i had one id be getting someone else to do the job instead.
I like em again now lol.

Good luck with it.
Stick some pix up when you get it

 

[supersticky]

Haha I'll be getting someone to do the belt then. Cheers bud will do

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[bruceR]

Got my OEM passenger door module fitted, in between bl**dy rain showers.
Drivers side 2moro


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[Rich.T]

So, decided a few weeks back to go vent to atmosphere with my catch tank.
Ordered the hose from Ebay and it turned up soon after. Left feedback and got on with my life.
Also ordered an ally bung to cap off the hole in the tip.

Just opened the bag that the hose came in and its got splits in it!
Not all the way through but if you twist it you can see cords.
Im going to use it now as i want to fit it tomorrow and it basically attaches to the outlet and drops down to just below the subframe.

Note to all, if you buy something off the internetz, check it straight away.

The bung looks ok and just hoping ive ordered the right size.

 

[Rich.T]

Done!
Blocked off the hole in the tip.
From the outlet of the catch tank ive got about 6 inches of hose to the puck. Then out of the puck is the pipe that now runs down to the subframe exiting at the rear of the nearside inner arch.
Will run the car for a week or 2 and report back if there are any findings.

 

[bruceR]

Right I’m f**kin well pi**ed off now
Replaced the drivers lock module this morning with OEM unit (yesterday done passenger side with no issues and working fine). All went well until I finished up and nipped out to shops - found out I couldn’t open either of the front doors from inside or out
I’d forgotten to reattach the inside cable to handle but can’t understand why this would affect both doors. I can hear the locks operating when pressing both keyfob & door buttons!!!!
Came home in a rage and managed to reattach cable by removing inside handle cover however still unable to open either front door from inside or out.
Anyone got any ideas………


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[Nam-uk]

Just picked up a pair of OEM door lock modules from TPS, now waiting for a decent spell of dry weather to get them installed.


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got a rear door to do but like the others i did going to strip them down to check and lubricate as aftermarket there dry as a bone, worked well on last one.

 

[Nam-uk]

Right I’m f**kin well pi**ed off now
Replaced the drivers lock module this morning with OEM unit (yesterday done passenger side with no issues and working fine). All went well until I finished up and nipped out to shops - found out I couldn’t open either of the front doors from inside or out
I’d forgotten to reattach the inside cable to handle but can’t understand why this would affect both doors. I can hear the locks operating when pressing both keyfob & door buttons!!!!
Came home in a rage and managed to reattach cable by removing inside handle cover however still unable to open either front door from inside or out.
Anyone got any ideas………


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might be a issue with motor jammed in close, my rear done that but in open position

 

[Sl1ced]

Done!
Blocked off the hole in the tip.
From the outlet of the catch tank ive got about 6 inches of hose to the puck. Then out of the puck is the pipe that now runs down to the subframe exiting at the rear of the nearside inner arch.
Will run the car for a week or 2 and report back if there are any findings.

Don’t need the puck if you’re VTA mate. I had a hole on top of my can for a filter. So I’ve used both main inlets for crank and rocker respectively then used the filter outlet to run a hose down and under the car. Made a bracket to attach it to where the old relay box was too


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[Rich.T]

Don’t need the puck if you’re VTA mate.


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Yeh, i know.
I did it as it looks neater. Rather than just having a random piece of black hose in the engine bay ive used the puck more as a T piece.

To be honest, ive found the whole catch tank setup a masive pain in the arse.
Replacing something that worked perfectly before with something that needs constant maintenance.

Ive still got the original pcv system and very tempted to put it back on.
Unless anyone can give me good reason why i shouldn't.......?

 

[Sl1ced]

Yeh, i know.
I did it as it looks neater. Rather than just having a random piece of black hose in the engine bay ive used the puck more as a T piece.

To be honest, ive found the whole catch tank setup a masive pain in the arse.
Replacing something that worked perfectly before with something that needs constant maintenance.

Ive still got the original pcv system and very tempted to put it back on.
Unless anyone can give me good reason why i shouldn't.......?

Ah I would’ve left mine on but all the pipes were like Swiss cheese. Fatigued and split. It was the cheaper option. To be honest apart from turning my drain tap every month I don’t do anything else lol


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[Nathan penney]

Right I’m f**kin well pi**ed off now
Replaced the drivers lock module this morning with OEM unit (yesterday done passenger side with no issues and working fine). All went well until I finished up and nipped out to shops - found out I couldn’t open either of the front doors from inside or out
I’d forgotten to reattach the inside cable to handle but can’t understand why this would affect both doors. I can hear the locks operating when pressing both keyfob & door buttons!!!!
Came home in a rage and managed to reattach cable by removing inside handle cover however still unable to open either front door from inside or out.
Anyone got any ideas………


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This has just happened to my front passenger door.
My offside back doors been a bit temperamental for a while, but like the car was punishing me for nearly selling it, went to open the front passenger door on Monday and nothing.
So I need to now sort both. Glad I didn’t sell it I’d have felt really bad on the new owner even though it only happened after the car should have been collected.

 

[bruceR]

might be a issue with motor jammed in close, my rear done that but in open position

How did you sort it??


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[LCR AL]

Yeh, i know.
I did it as it looks neater. Rather than just having a random piece of black hose in the engine bay ive used the puck more as a T piece.

To be honest, ive found the whole catch tank setup a masive pain in the arse.
Replacing something that worked perfectly before with something that needs constant maintenance.

Ive still got the original pcv system and very tempted to put it back on.
Unless anyone can give me good reason why i shouldn't.......?

I installed a recirculated catch can setup due to perished pipes etc and performance definitely improved for it.

I was recently looking into a vta setup as can emptying is quite regular and don't like the idea of it freezing in winter, then I read this old thread which explains several reasons why you need a pcv valve, hockey puck and a recirculated setup.
It seems to make sense to me.
So I'm going to re pipe my setup in the near future.
Have a read, see what you think.

Oily catch can (Pcv) lines

Have been searching for a couple weeks but haven't really found anything this particular or even similar so I thought I'd throw it up here. I have a 1.8t and deleted the Pcv valve and installed a vented catch can. I'm not sure if it's the colder weather but it looks like there's liquid...

www.vwvortex.com

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[Rich.T]

I installed a recirculated catch can setup due to perished pipes etc and performance definitely improved for it.

I was recently looking into a vta setup as can emptying is quite regular and don't like the idea of it freezing in winter, then I read this old thread which explains several reasons why you need a pcv valve, hockey puck and a recirculated setup.
It seems to make sense to me.
So I'm going to re pipe my setup in the near future.
Have a read, see what you think.

Oily catch can (Pcv) lines

Have been searching for a couple weeks but haven't really found anything this particular or even similar so I thought I'd throw it up here. I have a 1.8t and deleted the Pcv valve and installed a vented catch can. I'm not sure if it's the colder weather but it looks like there's liquid...

www.vwvortex.com

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A great link and worth a read if you have a catch tank
I got about half way through the thread and ran out of steam. Not had my 2nd coffee yet lol.
I'll have a read again later. What i did get though is the original setup is best so will be looking at the parts removed and see if its fit enough to put back on. If memory serves, it was in decent nick. May clean the pipes out and replace the little valve.
If its toast, I'll just have to dig deep and replace it all.

Rich

 

[LCR AL]

It seems a well maintained original setup or correctly installed recirculating catch can is best for oil condition and recycling of crankcase emissions.
Nothing has blown up yet, but I wish I'd researched better before installing it how I did!

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[Rich.T]

Ive got differing trains of thought when running a catch tank.

Id have preferred a closed circuit to a v2a setup.

The closed circuit system is drawing the crank fumes out via the turbo causing a vacuum in the crank case. Drawing out everything it can. I did an oil change last week after 6 months at about 140 miles pw. 3500ish miles?
The oil that came out was very clean. So i believe the system works very well. No condensation residue on the filler cap, not a jot.
Its the constant draining that does my head in.
Im not a lazy person but its always on my mind about the water/funk level in the can and concerned about it being drawn through into the turbo.

Vent to atmosphere im not convinced with to be honest.
The fumes are having to make their way to the catch tank under its own pressure (not drawn up by the turbo) so moving at a lower speed. At best or worst IM GUESSING the moisture vapours moving at a lower speed through the pipes have more chance of making contact with the inside of the pipes (gravity) and turning back into water droplets and running back down into the crank case. Ala water in the oil = condensation.

The standard pcv set up imo is the way to go. Its black magic to me at the moment and want to have a read up on how it works and what it does with the moisture and funk.

Just my Sunday morning ramblings lol

Rich