Got the guys at work to do mine, took a fair amount to press out as there's a circlip in there. It may be worth picking up a spare hub off ebay and doing a refurb so you literally just swap them over. Just be sure nothing has been ovalled (that got me, although the guys managed to rescue the GKN bearing I'd had put in)
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what have you done to your car today ?
- Thread starter seatcupramad23
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Got the guys at work to do mine, took a fair amount to press out as there's a circlip in there. It may be worth picking up a spare hub off ebay and doing a refurb so you literally just swap them over. Just be sure nothing has been ovalled (that got me, although the guys managed to rescue the GKN bearing I'd had put in)
That's not something I'd considered - getting another hub and just doing a straight swap. It's one of those jobs where I can do about 95% of the work myself, but that last 5% is the most important part. Must be cheap enough to get the parts.
Should really have done it when I had the control arms out, but I didn't really check them until last weekend. MoT advisory said "sight play" but if that's slight play, I don't want to be driving a car with worse.
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Id ring round and find a garage that'll do the bearing swap for you. Shouldn't be to hard to find somewhere. Just make sure they've got a press. Otherwise they'll be swinging hammers at it.
Just give them the hub to save on labour.
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The down time is reduced considerably and spares are dirt cheap, think I paid £60 for two Audi TT hubs (you don't want them) and cast arms. I ended up Hammeriting mine, changing the bearing, chasing out the various threads, changing ABS sensor, new splash guard. Then when it came to fitting it was about a couple of hours to swap the hub over (including cutting the tie rod end off because it didn't come quietly).
Think mine took 4 tonnes to press out? The guy doing it was impressed it took so much
Mine turned up from TPS yesterday. Hope to get a chance to fit it soon to see what its like.
Always important - if you don't see a bearing press in the shop, what are they putting it in with?
Bloody tie rod ends. They never behave. My hacksaw paid for itself when I did mine a couple of years ago. I do give mine a wire brush and some lube every now and then, but I'm sure I'm going to round off that allen hole when I try to get them out next.
So what you're saying is that my M10 threaded bar with two metal plates isn't going to cut it?
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M20 would be more like it. I treated myself to a front wheel drive wheel bearing puller kit a few years ago.
The assorted sleeves ensure you can drive the new bearing in by the edges. Driven in by the center, it won't last long.
Also needed my 15 stones jumping on a pair of 18 inch spanners to pull it out.
Decent circlip pliers might save much swearing too.
The paving at the back of my house was all broken by me trying to remove a wheel bearing on a mk2 polo strut.
Sledgehammer was a fail.
Engineering works got it out at 12 tons.
I hate the things.
Probably, I've never had one NOT round off the hex. 4½" grinder with a 1mm disc FTW!
I mean you could give it a go I guess, it'd be good exercise if nothing else.
The circlip is fitted in a way you can't get at it unless you press out the hub first but the circlip isn't big enough to brace the whole bearing so you can get the hub out without risking bits of bearing being attached.
It just sucks that I'll probably have to cut a perfectly good tie rod just because nobody's come up with a better way of securing a nut than this. I know in the States they love their cotter pins and castle nuts, and I used to think that was quite quaint, but they seem to have a much easier time getting ball joints and tie rods out. Of course, if I had a noisy gun, they'd probably come off no trouble too.
I think using an M10 bit of threaded rod would be a good exercise in totally ruining the thread on one. I managed to do that just getting a bushing out, so a wheel bearing? That'll eat it alive.
Just put in an order for a new CSC after faffing around for ages trying to make sure it was the right one. The only place that had what I was really after was the shop that sent the damaged one, so why they didn't just get one from stores, I'll never know. In the end, they refunded me £30, but with a voucher on eBay I got the new one for £25. Their operation is clearly too big to know what's going on - every time I messaged I got about five different responses from five different people.
I was tempted to use the damaged one - just file down the lip where it was bashed - but I noticed that the hole for the bolt has been flattened slightly, so it might not align properly. It's probably not as important as I'm making out, but if I'm taking the gearbox out, there's not a chance of me doing the job again.
Picked up a red-stitched leather handbrake gaiter too for £14. For years, my plastic one has been disintegrating a bit on the end. I used to think it was just the previous owner had a taste for sticky sweets, but I've cleaned it loads and it's still like that, so it'll be nice to cover it up.
I've been getting a loud crunching sound when I'm reversing.yeah i meant my body not the car
Turns out it's my neck.
I usually make some kind of noise to let people in Tesco’s know I’m about to make a turn or manoeuvre.takes longer as you get older mate
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Find a clear road and drive at about 30mph.
Swerve left and right to see if the noise gets louder and quieter.
If it gets louder when turning left, its the right bearing.
If it gets louder when turning right, its the left bearing.
Im gonna change my tranny oil and if that doesnt solve it, then its wheel bearings time. Think thats one for the garage
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