Ronin225's Candy rimmed Black LCR - Project 500-4WD, Cage installed and bigger turbo
- Thread starter Ronin225
- Start date
Cheers guys, should hopefully be ordering my stroker kit at the end of next month
Decided to go bigger displacement instead of just doing rods and isnt that much more expensive
I will be going for the 2008cc kit as this wiil also bring the spool of the turbo lower due to the increased flow over the turbine wheels, should be boosting in the low 3k's
I have got some pics of the leaking area but cant get my phone to link to laptop
Decided to go bigger displacement instead of just doing rods and isnt that much more expensive
I will be going for the 2008cc kit as this wiil also bring the spool of the turbo lower due to the increased flow over the turbine wheels, should be boosting in the low 3k's
I have got some pics of the leaking area but cant get my phone to link to laptop
The pictures
The cable comes up with the rest of the loom and passes just in front of pollen filter as seen here
After this it then runs to almost below the edge of the windscreen where it drops through a hole and grommet that is there originally and where the water was getting in and now is covered in sealant
It comes out behind glove box and down into passanger foot well and is then ran along with the rest of the loom down the side of the car
As the water was going past the grommet it was running along the cable and dropping off in the passanger footwell but then running into the rear as this is a lower point.
I was going to strip the carpet out completely to dry but so much plastic trim has to be removed instead i removed seats and enough to give the carpet enough flexibility to move enough for a good dry out.
Also resealed the passanger door while i was there emptying what now seems to be gallons of water from the sound deadening.
So if relocating the battery that is a good route to take but be careful about sealing the grommet.
Mine has been in a while and assume the cable must have moved slightly and someones foot may have pressed hard on the carpetpulling the cable slightly breaking the seal around grommet. I'll just keep an eye on it now
The cable comes up with the rest of the loom and passes just in front of pollen filter as seen here
After this it then runs to almost below the edge of the windscreen where it drops through a hole and grommet that is there originally and where the water was getting in and now is covered in sealant
It comes out behind glove box and down into passanger foot well and is then ran along with the rest of the loom down the side of the car
As the water was going past the grommet it was running along the cable and dropping off in the passanger footwell but then running into the rear as this is a lower point.
I was going to strip the carpet out completely to dry but so much plastic trim has to be removed instead i removed seats and enough to give the carpet enough flexibility to move enough for a good dry out.
Also resealed the passanger door while i was there emptying what now seems to be gallons of water from the sound deadening.
So if relocating the battery that is a good route to take but be careful about sealing the grommet.
Mine has been in a while and assume the cable must have moved slightly and someones foot may have pressed hard on the carpetpulling the cable slightly breaking the seal around grommet. I'll just keep an eye on it now
Just a few more logs from the current K04, just seeing how healthy the engine is running
Also tagged block 004 on as i was interested in seeing if my stock SMIC are a bit of a choke point even when running an OE map.
First run also pulled bad timing but i am assuming it was heatsoak as we had to wait a while to get a clear run
Just out of interest what are classed a s good IAT's too??
Also tagged block 004 on as i was interested in seeing if my stock SMIC are a bit of a choke point even when running an OE map.
First run also pulled bad timing but i am assuming it was heatsoak as we had to wait a while to get a clear run
Code:
Group A: '003 Group B: '020 Group C: '004
RPM Mass Flow Load Ign. Timing Idle Stabilization Idle Stabilization Idle Stabilization Idle Stabilization RPM Voltage Temperature Temperature
TIME TIME TIME
Marker STAMP /min g/s % °BTDC STAMP CF CF CF CF STAMP /min V °C °C
0.8 2920 92.47 100 11.3 0 0 0 0 0 0.4 2800 13.79 83 37
2.11 3320 96.17 100 12.8 1.21 3 0 0 0 1.61 3160 13.65 83 33
3.32 3720 107.58 100 13.5 2.51 2.3 0 0 0 2.92 3560 13.79 83 30
4.62 4080 114.22 100 18 3.82 2.3 0 0 0 4.22 3960 13.79 83 30
5.84 4440 127.75 100 18.8 5.03 1.5 0 3 0 5.44 4320 13.79 83 30
7.15 4800 131.64 100 12.8 6.33 0.8 0 3 3 6.73 4720 13.65 83 31
8.44 5160 146.39 100 15 7.64 3.8 0 2.3 2.3 8.04 5040 13.86 84 33
9.66 5480 157.86 100 12.8 8.86 6.8 3 1.5 2.3 9.26 5360 13.65 84 34
10.87 5760 167.58 100 13.5 10.06 6.8 2.3 4.5 1.5 10.46 5640 13.86 84 35
12.17 6040 171.67 100 10.5 11.37 6 2.3 3.8 1.5 11.77 5920 13.72 84 37
13.37 6240 166.86 99.6 15 12.57 5.3 1.5 3.8 0.8 12.97 6160 13.72 84 38
14.6 6400 166.61 100 15 13.78 5.3 4.5 3 0.8 14.19 6360 13.72 84 39
Thursday 8 September 2011 21:28:56
1ML 906 032 A 1.8l R4/5VT 0002
Group A: '003 Group B: '020 Group C: '004
RPM Mass Flow Load Ign. Timing Idle Stabilization Idle Stabilization Idle Stabilization Idle Stabilization RPM Voltage Temperature Temperature
TIME TIME TIME
Marker STAMP /min g/s % °BTDC STAMP CF CF CF CF STAMP /min V °C °C
0.5 2840 89.75 100 13.5 0.99 0 0 0 0 0 2720 13.86 78 28
1.81 3280 95.36 100 14.3 2.21 0 0 0 0 1.41 3120 13.86 78 26
3.01 3640 104.89 100 16.5 3.52 0 0 0 0 2.61 3520 13.86 78 24
4.32 4040 116.11 100 18.8 4.82 0 0 0 0 3.92 3920 13.86 79 24
5.63 4440 126.47 100 18.8 6.13 0 0 0 0 5.21 4320 13.86 80 25
6.93 4800 137.25 100 18.8 7.34 0 0 0 0 6.53 4680 13.93 80 26
8.25 5160 145.56 100 18 8.75 0 3 0 0 7.84 5040 13.79 81 27
9.65 5520 163 99.2 14.3 10.16 0 2.3 3 0 9.25 5440 13.93 81 29
10.96 5840 171.97 100 13.5 11.36 0 1.5 3 0 10.56 5760 13.79 81 30
12.27 6120 174.33 99.2 16.5 12.77 0 1.5 2.3 3 11.78 6000 13.93 81 32
13.56 6360 171.94 99.6 16.5 13.98 0 0.8 2.3 3 13.17 6280 13.86 82 34
when it comes to intake temps, take idle temp, then see the max temp on a power run. its the temp difference hear that shows how well a intercooler is working. iirc mine goes up by 10 degrees on a power run on stage 2, also thats on a rolling road.
Had a trip over to see the ever knowledgeable mr phill and fit some bits
We decided to start with the biggest and most difficult job, the poly rear beam bushes
So after undoing all the brake lines and removing calipers and unbolting coilovers
The rear beam was free
As you can see the splash guards were left on as the only way to remove them is to remove the hub which is lots more work
The old bushes knocked out with surprising ease as we were expecting these to put up a bit of a fight but within 2 minutes, out
Then the more difficult part of getting the new ones in which definitely requires 2 people with some clamps to get them in, due to the tight fit they kept trying to twist on insertion but after they engaged by 25mm ish they could be knocked home with a 4lb screwdriver
So a nice fully poly bushed rear beam
Then the reassembly process obviously in reverse of the disassembly and how it should look with the rear beam all bolted up with the new bushes in
The brakes were then bled, only the rear calipers were done as the pipes were clamped when taken off and most of the air shouldnt have gone back through the system and the peddle feels nice and firm.
Just before putting the rear wheels back on i thought it would be a good time to put the rear spacers on that i have had for the last 6 months.
So an additional 20mm track width has been added to the back
Still more to fit so will be back to see Phill tomorrow to fit the vibratechnic engine mounts and the forge shortshift, so will update then
We decided to start with the biggest and most difficult job, the poly rear beam bushes
So after undoing all the brake lines and removing calipers and unbolting coilovers
The rear beam was free
As you can see the splash guards were left on as the only way to remove them is to remove the hub which is lots more work
The old bushes knocked out with surprising ease as we were expecting these to put up a bit of a fight but within 2 minutes, out
Then the more difficult part of getting the new ones in which definitely requires 2 people with some clamps to get them in, due to the tight fit they kept trying to twist on insertion but after they engaged by 25mm ish they could be knocked home with a 4lb screwdriver
So a nice fully poly bushed rear beam
Then the reassembly process obviously in reverse of the disassembly and how it should look with the rear beam all bolted up with the new bushes in
The brakes were then bled, only the rear calipers were done as the pipes were clamped when taken off and most of the air shouldnt have gone back through the system and the peddle feels nice and firm.
Just before putting the rear wheels back on i thought it would be a good time to put the rear spacers on that i have had for the last 6 months.
So an additional 20mm track width has been added to the back
Still more to fit so will be back to see Phill tomorrow to fit the vibratechnic engine mounts and the forge shortshift, so will update then
Tim that felt absolutely amazing! Its like its on rails.
I still cant believe how well it handles.
Top work
I still cant believe how well it handles.
Top work
Nearly a member of the fully pollied club Tim, just the rack bush to go, but it great isn't it it never fails to put a massive grin on my face when going around corners, until the esp cuts in that is.
Just to post up how sundays work went and unfortunately pics are fitted parts only mainly due to me forgetting to take any whilst working
Undertray removed and a jack to support each side of the engine was used as each mount was replaced. The original bolts were reused and done up to f'ing tight N/M due to the fact we couldnt find the recommended torque settings.
I will probably replace the bolts soon and correctly torque them (if anybody knows these it would be handy)
After that the forge shortshift was fitted and the gear linkages reset to suit
Heres what was removed, ready to be added to a large pile of OE bits in the garage
While sensibly driving home the shortshift is very noticeable and travel is hugely removed, slightly more effort required to engage it into gears though
Later in the evening i had a B road blast and i cant believe how much it sticks to the road, almost go-kartesque
There is definately more vibration in the cabin and you can feel engine vibration through the pedals too.
Engine note in the car has changed and everything feels very stiff and firm.
From a personal point of view the engine mounts i think made the biggest difference, could be just a sensory thing, but would definitely recommend to anyone
Took barn for a little trip in it too, giving him ideas
Undertray removed and a jack to support each side of the engine was used as each mount was replaced. The original bolts were reused and done up to f'ing tight N/M due to the fact we couldnt find the recommended torque settings.
I will probably replace the bolts soon and correctly torque them (if anybody knows these it would be handy)
After that the forge shortshift was fitted and the gear linkages reset to suit
Heres what was removed, ready to be added to a large pile of OE bits in the garage
While sensibly driving home the shortshift is very noticeable and travel is hugely removed, slightly more effort required to engage it into gears though
Later in the evening i had a B road blast and i cant believe how much it sticks to the road, almost go-kartesque
There is definately more vibration in the cabin and you can feel engine vibration through the pedals too.
Engine note in the car has changed and everything feels very stiff and firm.
From a personal point of view the engine mounts i think made the biggest difference, could be just a sensory thing, but would definitely recommend to anyone
Took barn for a little trip in it too, giving him ideas
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