flip key info thread

[darkhorse]

Just coded my 3 button flip key to my cupra. Cost breakdown was £5.00 for the remote unit which looks like new, £5.20 for the uncut ket & transponder assembly and £5.00 to cut it. Total cost of £15.20
I used vag k+can commander to retrieve the skc pin number (took 5 mins) and then vagcom to add it to the immobiliser (2 mins). Timpsons couldn't cut the cheap ebay key because their machine wouldn't clamp it square but another key cutting place did it without a problem

EDIT: Forgot to say that if the boot release button doesn't work, it can be enabled in vagcom. I forget what you have to do but if you can get hold of vcds the label tags tell you what's what as you go through the basic settings in the instrument control module

 

[cupra.al]

where did you get a vag k+can commander from? and how much?

 

[darkhorse]

I got it off ebay for about £40
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAG-K-CAN-1-4...iagnostic_Tools_Equipment?hash=item3ca8e6b14c

It took some messing about to get it to work on vista but managed it in the end

 

[cupra.al]

thats worth considering then although i run vista. ive had my key for ages now but need a blank transponder and the skc code i might one day sort it out.

 

[olip74]

Evening! I'm trying to find an appropriate key on eBay at the moment. I posted a thread yesterday but should probably just have posted here. Anyway it was quite a big post, link here:

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=251151

There seems to be a difference between my key and the pics that people have posted here so I don't know how to open it or if I even need to - there are some codes on the inner blade housing. I'm going to try to get a 1JO key and hopefully that will work. Does anyone know if the ones ending AM actually work - they all seem to be in the states?

Also don't suppose anyone has any spare badges for the new key? I'll happily PayPal a nominal sum to cover postage!

 

[vroomtshh]

Just coded my 3 button flip key to my cupra. Cost breakdown was £5.00 for the remote unit which looks like new, £5.20 for the uncut ket & transponder assembly and £5.00 to cut it. Total cost of £15.20
I used vag k+can commander to retrieve the skc pin number (took 5 mins) and then vagcom to add it to the immobiliser (2 mins). Timpsons couldn't cut the cheap ebay key because their machine wouldn't clamp it square but another key cutting place did it without a problem

EDIT: Forgot to say that if the boot release button doesn't work, it can be enabled in vagcom. I forget what you have to do but if you can get hold of vcds the label tags tell you what's what as you go through the basic settings in the instrument control module

Can you tell me how to program the transponder with vag com?
Do you need the full version?

 

[vroomtshh]

Also don't suppose anyone has any spare badges for the new key? I'll happily PayPal a nominal sum to cover postage!

PM me your address and 'll send you one

 

[Seattle]

Hi everyone

Thanks for sharing so much good info. BUT … the key fob questions keep coming and, sorry, I’m going to add more. Regulars must be sick of this!

Word and number searches haven’t helped me with precise answers. If they are buried in this mega Sticky – someone please signpost!

Like others here, I started looking at eBay listings for a spare key and got thoroughly confused. It’s usually down to buyers to know exactly what they need. I wouldn’t mind betting loads of people have bought keys that don’t work on their cars. I hope this post will help others avoid the pitfalls and maybe start a single sticky - validated by the good techie people here - which gets checked and updated as necessary. Then it won’t get swamped with general postings.

1. I have a non-flip two-button Hella key number 730 955-00 433 MHZ 5FA 007 680. Will a Siemens, or any other make of key with the same or different number work? If so, how do I find out what they are?

2. Some key numbers start the same but have different last number/letter groups. Are any of these compatible?

3. I have read that there is no difference between 433MHZ and 434MHZ keys – they are all 433.92 either rounded up or down. Is that right?

4. The car is a 2001 Arosa S 1.4 TDi (September reg) with a flashing red security light above the door catch which operates when locked remotely with plip/fob or manually.

5. There are plenty of instructions on how to remove badges and extract the small cylindrical transponder for replacement … but mine has neither badge nor transponder (so far as I can find) just a printed circuit board (PCB).

Does this simplify things giving a wider choice of suitable PCB fitted keys from a Sharan to Toledo and everything in between? Does it make matching easier? If my car works without key transponder programming, will a replacement fob with (redundant) transponder work?

6. The key blade is HAA W3. Will any other replacement work?


Hope there’s a brilliant Anorak or three who can clarify this lot

Cheers

 

[olip74]

Hmm, having a 'mare with this. Got key from eBay but the code didn't match the seller's description - it's one of the 315MHz parts. He says that he replaced the shell at some point but that it's 434MHz so I'm taking him at his word

However I can't seem to get it to work with the central locking using the instructions on page 1. I thought the seller may have been fibbing but I can't even use that procedure to pair the key that actually came with the car - no chirps from the horn or anything. Would this not work because it's already paired? Basically there's no feedback at all from the car. Anyone got any other suggestions? It's a 2010 model and the key I've got is different from the others I've seen. David at SERE motors says the part is 7N5837202INF. Have they changed the sequence or something?

 

[Ferryman]

Hi everyone

1. I have a non-flip two-button Hella key number 730 955-00 433 MHZ 5FA 007 680. Will a Siemens, or any other make of key with the same or different number work? If so, how do I find out what they are?

2. Some key numbers start the same but have different last number/letter groups. Are any of these compatible?

3. I have read that there is no difference between 433MHZ and 434MHZ keys – they are all 433.92 either rounded up or down. Is that right?

5. There are plenty of instructions on how to remove badges and extract the small cylindrical transponder for replacement … but mine has neither badge nor transponder (so far as I can find) just a printed circuit board (PCB).

Cheers

Here you can see the location of transponder chip.

Both 433MHz & 434MHz operate at the same 433.92MHz - 434.42MHz frequency, so it does not really matter.

Any fob should work as long as it matches the frequency range, in your case 433MHz or 434MHz.

You can use atleast following part numbers: 1J0959753CT, 1J0959753N and 1J0959753AG.
These are two button fobs, but you can also use three button versions as long as the frequency matches.

 

[darkhorse]

Can you tell me how to program the transponder with vag com?
Do you need the full version?

Use the RossTech guide http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/Immobilizer_III_Key_Matching_(Cluster) and you need the registered version

 

[olip74]

Tried this sequence now too:

1. Ignition on to red, lights on dash
2. Turn off immediately and pull key out
3. HOLD 1 of the buttons down (dont matter which)
4. PRESS the other 3 times ( with a SLIGHT pause) 1 . 2 . 3
5. Watch led on key (should flash) and doors usually try lock/unlock
6. Turn ignition key back on to red lights and wait 5 sec
7. Key out again and test operation

Nothing! Beginning to worry that they've changed the whole set up to stop people DIYing.

 

[darkhorse]

There seems to be a difference between my key and the pics that people have posted here so I don't know how to open it or if I even need to - there are some codes on the inner blade housing. I'm going to try to get a 1JO key and hopefully that will work. Does anyone know if the ones ending AM actually work - they all seem to be in the states?

The mk2 Leon has a different central convenience module as it uses a can bus interface. I think you need a 1K0 key not a 1J0 but don't take my word for it. The new Golfs etc seem to all use 1K0 keys
Take a look at http://www.golfmk5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38548 for more information which might help

 

[Seattle]

Many thanks Feryman ... it doesn't get any clearer than that!

The picture is appreciated - I have just opened the key up and carefully lifted the PCB, but there's no immo chip ... but the key remotely opens/closes the central locking and starts the car. Surprise, surprise. So I guess that means doing without the immobiliser unless I spend a fortune with a dealer.

Now I have your info, at least I know what to bid for on a spare key.

Cheers for helping out.

 

[Seattle]

Hi Ferryman - or anyone else clued up, I have woken up to realise the picture isn't the same as my key.

It looks like eBay item number 260540844296 (sorry, as a newbie not allowed to post the url) with a key blade section that detaches before the fob can be opened.

If there is an immo chip hidden away ... I haven't yet found it. There seems just to be a PCB.

Any suggestions?

Cheers

 

[Ferryman]

Hi Ferryman - or anyone else clued up, I have woken up to realise the picture isn't the same as my key.

It looks like eBay item number 260540844296 (sorry, as a newbie not allowed to post the url) with a key blade section that detaches before the fob can be opened.

If there is an immo chip hidden away ... I haven't yet found it. There seems just to be a PCB.

Any suggestions?

Cheers

The transponder is located in the detachable blade housing.
HAA / W3 side of the blade upwards, on the left side.
The sealed part with buttons only have the transmitter pcb.

 

[Seattle]

Thanks Ferryman

Found it - I was looking for the small glass cylinder in the fob mentioned by others ...

Have read that the glass chips are one-time programmable only and assume that this also applies to the black chip I have.

Your help greatly appreciated.

 

[knackerdecobre]

Is there a certain way of getting the chip out the old key?

 

[zach225]

hey all,

just wanted to say i bought a 344mhz 3 button key for my mk4 ibiza 433mhz original key,

£25 and a quick cut and code later, all 3 buttons work well, and its great to have a flip key back!!

thanks people for this mod!!

 

[PalmerMk3]

so my key is a 433.92 mhz do i but the ones listed on ebay as 434mhz? and do i just have to transfer the chip over to make it work just read through a fair few pages of this and it all seems to say different things
Thanks