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jamiebennett81
Guest
Thanks for posting that link, I need a set of coloured bolts myself
no worries
the guy who had some made up for his R6 is bringing them in tomorrow so will have a look at the quality then, but they are well known on the bike forums for providing a good service, so I am sure the quality is very good
i paid £857 inc vat to have my rods fitted nearly 4 years ago now.labour was £544,parts were £184.both +vat,hope this helps
steve
jamiebennett81
Guest
Cost me just over 800 quid for labour and parts that i didnt have, i gave them rods and pistons.
Thinking into the future really, there isn't much point in me going for a 325bhp BT kit as the increase in power isn't that much over what I have now, but if I had rods that would lift the restriction and allow me to go for a 350 or even a 400bhp kit in the future!
You never rest........lol
Good to see your still going to be keeping the car.
Had worried we'd lose you to the new Focus RS
Haha yeah, a few tempting motors out there but yes, I'll be keeping this car for a long time yet, it's still only got 37k miles on it, not bad for an '01 car!
jamiebennett81
Guest
37k, jesus!!!
hmmmm, this is something I might also consider, I really love my car, its completely customised, and I just could not bare to part with her, especially after all the pain, time and effort I have gone through to get this far with her
BT is certianly something I would consider for sure!! but my car will have something like over 100k on the clock, and not sure its wise to put her through that sort of power leap to 400bhp, even WITH uprated rods, pistons etc?
with that power level you will need your engine fully rebuilt with the goodies anyway so mileage becomes irrelivant, get your plastic out
If I can afford to have rods fitted, I'd go for a GT2871R Backdraft/INA kit, if not then the GT2860RS kit. I'm waiting to see what INA come up with as if they can do a GT2860RS kit for around $2,000 (£1358) then I'll go for that. 325bhp without rods - 400bhp with rods!
Nothing much new to report, my car is in for its MOT today, I poured some Forte emmissions reducer in the tank to make sure it passes the emissions test, it should as I use Tesco 99 which has lower emissions than Shell V-Power. I always turn the boost down too to make sure nobody from the garage gets full power, the young mechanics eyes always light up when I drop my car off - as they did this morning!!!
I'm currently running a K&N Apollo enclosed induction kit, with a direct cold-air feed off the foglight hole, doesn't feel restrictive and gives higher g/s due to the air being force-fed into the filter, if anything feels slightly better than the open cone, downside is no noise! Back to the Forge 007P DV too, car runs smoother with it.
I'm currently running a K&N Apollo enclosed induction kit, with a direct cold-air feed off the foglight hole, doesn't feel restrictive and gives higher g/s due to the air being force-fed into the filter, if anything feels slightly better than the open cone, downside is no noise! Back to the Forge 007P DV too, car runs smoother with it.
jamiebennett81
Guest
what g/s were you getting before and then after fitting the K&N Apollo Rob?
this is the same design as the Dynatwist isn't?
I am seriously considering going down this route as my current kit is only pulling 184g/s and I want it to be pulling nearer 200g/s if possible!
how much was your K&N kit?
The Universal K&N Apollo kit is £112.54 + £7.50 postage from here: (sometimes you find 2nd-hand ones on ebay)
http://www.performance-filters.co.uk/p1547014.htm
Compare that to the BMC CDA which is more like £175! All you need extra is an 80-70mm silicone reducer which costs around £15 from Forge (I have a spare one which you could have for less). I've tried the BMC before and found it restrictive, I heard they're only rated to around 200bhp too, not so with the K&N Apollo which is rated to 350bhp.
http://www.performance-filters.co.uk/p1547014.htm
Compare that to the BMC CDA which is more like £175! All you need extra is an 80-70mm silicone reducer which costs around £15 from Forge (I have a spare one which you could have for less). I've tried the BMC before and found it restrictive, I heard they're only rated to around 200bhp too, not so with the K&N Apollo which is rated to 350bhp.
Rob - with a feed fully attached/sealed to the airbox, I'm sure mine would "get going" marginally quicker. Say if you're doing a steady 40, then accelerate, it would jump forward more eagerly. This makes sense in connection with "ram-air" theory (although I would say that the fog light isn't the best place as you want the highest point of pressure at the front of the car, which is usually just above the bumper line).
Anyway - later, I had the air feed disconnected from the airbox, probably just with a few mm gap. The induction noise came back, the peak g/sec increased and I don't really remember loosing the eagerness, but as that was "seat of the pants" it was hard to measure.
Turbo theory says that increasing the pressure on the "outside" of the air filter helps significantly, as the turbo has less work to suck the air in, is more efficient as a result, and so can spend more effort producing boost, or producing same boost at lower temps.
All very interesting, but real world practical difference? Dunno. Like John always says, you can always bolt a bigger turbo on...
Anyway - later, I had the air feed disconnected from the airbox, probably just with a few mm gap. The induction noise came back, the peak g/sec increased and I don't really remember loosing the eagerness, but as that was "seat of the pants" it was hard to measure.
Turbo theory says that increasing the pressure on the "outside" of the air filter helps significantly, as the turbo has less work to suck the air in, is more efficient as a result, and so can spend more effort producing boost, or producing same boost at lower temps.
All very interesting, but real world practical difference? Dunno. Like John always says, you can always bolt a bigger turbo on...
"Turbo theory says that increasing the pressure on the "outside" of the air filter helps significantly, as the turbo has less work to suck the air in, is more efficient as a result, and so can spend more effort producing boost, or producing same boost at lower temps."
This is the effect I'm seeing, I've had to lower the duty cycle on the Apexi, less effort to make the same boost.
This is the effect I'm seeing, I've had to lower the duty cycle on the Apexi, less effort to make the same boost.
I do tend to agree with Phil. I used to me a proponent of the ram-air effect, but I now really think the difference is negligible and that open cone is the least restrictive method of getting air into your turbo.
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