what have you done to your car today ?
- Thread starter seatcupramad23
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Its in the for sale sectionWhat!?? NoooooA sad day m8.
I best put my organs on eBay, how much are you listing it for?
Made new firewall and charge pipe heatshields.
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I seemed to have an intermittent coolant leak - found a pool of the stuff on the top of the gearbox casing. Turned out the coolant temp sensor was weeping.
Re-seated it and noted the re
taining clip was somewhat bendy so orderded a replacement Febi/Blstein CTS that came with a new clip. The replacement clip was way more substantial and stiffer - in fact what came off had quite a lot of moulding flash on it so I'm assuming it was a poor copy part.
Thankfully seems to be holding pressure and coolant ok now, though if it plays up will switch in the new CTS along with fresh o-ring.
Re-seated it and noted the re
Thankfully seems to be holding pressure and coolant ok now, though if it plays up will switch in the new CTS along with fresh o-ring.
Yep, pretty sure they come with Febi sensors out of the factory.
They want £6 but VW want £40
They want £6 but VW want £40
just like the INA alternator clutch pully £162, none Vw box INA pulley around 25 quid, that's an expensive boxYep, pretty sure they come with Febi sensors out of the factory.
They want £6 but VW want £40
Spent a couple of hours downloading a couple of hundred documents from SEATs ErWIN (way overkill but I paid for it so why not)
Picked up a couple of brackets and brake disc bolts so I can get on with some design work n putting things together
Picked up a couple of brackets and brake disc bolts so I can get on with some design work n putting things together
Just as a matter of interest were a lot of these documents in german, as last time i looked for manuals they were only published in German.
Not a problem to fix these days just wondered.
Been getting up close and personal with the offside rear lock from my old door. I think the microswitch should work now, but have just been trying to make sure the two halves go back together with the lock mechanism still working - I don't want to put the door back together with new butyl only to find it doesn't work at all, or worse that it locks shut and I can't reopen it.
Going to go out now the rain has stopped and will either fix the lock in the new old door, where the interior handle isn't working, or take it out and put my spare in. Hopefully, it's just the bowden cable unlatched or something.
Going to take the whole panel off so I have room to work. This means doing the whole peg and dowel thing with the window, but if I'm taking the original seals off the panel, it's probably the best way of doing it properly
Then to park on a hill so all the water runs to the back of the car and into the towels I've put under the carpet.
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Going to go out now the rain has stopped and will either fix the lock in the new old door, where the interior handle isn't working, or take it out and put my spare in. Hopefully, it's just the bowden cable unlatched or something.
Going to take the whole panel off so I have room to work. This means doing the whole peg and dowel thing with the window, but if I'm taking the original seals off the panel, it's probably the best way of doing it properly
Then to park on a hill so all the water runs to the back of the car and into the towels I've put under the carpet.
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Let us know how you get on with the peg thing. I'm sure there's a magic method nobody has figured out yet!
Iammooks There's an interesting series of videos on YT by a Spanish guy JRB motors where he renovates an TDI Leon and part 10 covers cleaning and rebuilding the door locks. Towards the end he redoes the window glass so you may find it interesting.
The auto-translate on YT for subtitles into English is so useful
The auto-translate on YT for subtitles into English is so useful
Peg and dowel is super easy - honestly. Sorry if people know some/all of this already, but if I go through it from start to finish, it might help somebody else.
To get it out, wind the window down until you can see it through the inspection hole under the window motor. Screw a fairly thick screw in, then using pliers, pull it out. I used a decking screw like this one - long enough and wide enough.
Then use a screwdriver to gently knock the remaining bit through - being careful not to dent the outer skin of the door. You can get it out when you take the door skin out.
Then you push the window up to the closed position and duct tape it over the door frame. It helps if it's not raining when you do this...
When it's time to put it back together, before you put the door skin back in, put the outer part of the plug in first, then push the inner bit in a little, then use plumbers' grips to put even pressure on either side, so it's like this.
Now put the door skin back on, bolt it in, reattach the window motor, and then take off the duct tape, lean out of the window and push down hard on the glass. You'll hear it (and feel it) clunk into place.
Taking apart my old door and finding out that it's actually quite straightforward took a lot of the fear out of it, and I'm much less nervous about doing work in the rear doors now.
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While the seals and putting my spare lock in seems to have worked - and the microswitch seems OK now after a clean, the last part of the puzzle is getting the lock cover back in.
Using the old door parts as a guide, I can work out how it tightens it up, but I've tried a few combinations of backing it out and screwing it in, but the lock cover just pulls straight out.
Any tips? Is it buggered? Have I backed it out too much? I've never had issues with the others, so is the part knackered?
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Using the old door parts as a guide, I can work out how it tightens it up, but I've tried a few combinations of backing it out and screwing it in, but the lock cover just pulls straight out.
Any tips? Is it buggered? Have I backed it out too much? I've never had issues with the others, so is the part knackered?
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Don't think you can knacker them unless the brass holders get bent on the metal ring.While the seals and putting my spare lock in seems to have worked - and the microswitch seems OK now after a clean, the last part of the puzzle is getting the lock cover back in.
Using the old door parts as a guide, I can work out how it tightens it up, but I've tried a few combinations of backing it out and screwing it in, but the lock cover just pulls straight out.
Any tips? Is it buggered? Have I backed it out too much? I've never had issues with the others, so is the part knackered?
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Have you removed the entire brass ring and the screw and started from scratch?
I've had a play around with the one I took off my old door and it seems that the ring can pop off and that stops it from tightening. It's that much harder when it's in the door, but I'll spray a loaf of penetrating lube in there tomorrow and will try to get out to come together.
Otherwise it'll probably mean taking everything out again and I really don't fancy doing that.
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I think I remember reading about the glass - it's why I kept the one from the old door as a spare, just in case. Those regulators are getting old now, so I suppose they're getting brittle - makes me nervous about how casually I pushed it in earlier!
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Little tip for removing the plastic glass retaining bit, because sometimes it can be... resistant to being pulled out. I've even flexed the entire panel doing it.
You can use an extension bar or similar across the opening to get some leverage on the pliers when pulling the screw out.
Oh, for putting it back in, yup, nervous times
. Think I put the panel on, put the glass in, stuck my hand behind whole thing (there's just enough room), and pressed the plastic in.
As for the retaining ring, looks seized to me. Shouldn't be difficult to get them to move so if it's resisting or just not moving then it's done for (my nsf door has a bit of damage after having to smash one to bits to get it out it was so seized)
You can use an extension bar or similar across the opening to get some leverage on the pliers when pulling the screw out.
Oh, for putting it back in, yup, nervous times
. Think I put the panel on, put the glass in, stuck my hand behind whole thing (there's just enough room), and pressed the plastic in.As for the retaining ring, looks seized to me. Shouldn't be difficult to get them to move so if it's resisting or just not moving then it's done for (my nsf door has a bit of damage after having to smash one to bits to get it out it was so seized)
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