Thanks Cliveski - my airbag light is still on LOL waiting for that all important Service which will hopefully reset the light!! Good job though!!
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If it is wet just in the passengers footwell then the leak could be due to a poorly fitted pollen filter or cover.
Pollen filter cover – to remove : unscrew and pull out plastic clips with screw heads (circled red) then pull up rubber seal from end, marked with yellow arrow.
Pull cover outwards. Check pollen filter below is properly seated and clipped in. Remove leaves and dirt and check drain hole in corner next to pollen filter is clear.
Check condition of cover, repair any cracks, rips or holes with waterproof gaffer tape. Make sure cover is properly refitted so that the pollen filter is protected from water. Push rubber seal back into place.
However the majority of leaks are through a foam seal around the ancillaries carrier – this is the removable internal metal panel on the door that the speaker and window regulator are attached to.
I used silicone sealant to seal the panel and this solved the leaking problem on my Toledo.
I have done this job myself (and took some photos) after reading information from the forum (thanks for all the info) and elsewhere on the internet, hopefully this brings everything together.
Read all of this guide and :
Door dismantling instructions/Window repair - VWvortex
before removing anything, so that the attachment of the window and door lock to the panel is understood and not damaged.
The internal plastic door panel has to be removed to get access to it.
The internal door handle has a clip on cover, lever this carefully to remove it.
Door handle cover unclipped. Showing door fixing bolts, circled red
Remove the two bolts in the handle – large cross-point (philips) heads.
There are also some screws at the lower edge of the front door plastic panels
– torx T20 head.
Pull the plastic panel from the bottom, it just held by clips now.
Lift panel so the top clears door lock knob and plastic bracket below window.
Carefully pull out – there are several wires attached.
Unplug all connectors (squeeze clips at side of connector and pull to unplug) – for alarm LED (drivers side), small speaker, door light, electric windows switch.
Unclip cable to door latch lever.
This black painted panel is removable and is the ancillaries carrier panel.
The leaky seal is on rear of panel (yellow line shows position).
Rear of panel showing deteriorated foam seal (which ripped when removed) and water marks. Part of the speaker is also shown.
The speaker is riveted to the panel and also has a foam seal around it (on front side of panel).
If a different speaker is fitted it is important to seal it well. And also to leave the plastic surround which can be seen protruding on the photo. This plastic surround deflects the water running down the panel and stops it running onto the speaker cone.
View of inside of door, looking downwards. Drain holes are circled in red.
Seal around outer edge of door. Viewed from underneath door facing up.
Arrow shows one of the oval drain holes in the door and corresponding drain hole in seal.
Outer lip of seal has to be pulled back to see the drain holes.
The drain holes can be blocked by too much wax which is used to prevent rusting inside the door.
Can be checked and cleaned without removing anything : pull the rubber seal to expose the holes and wipe with a damp cloth to remove dirt, and poke a cotton bud up the drain holes (there are 3 oval shaped ones) to clear them.
Cross sectional diagram of door and seals. Water runs down the insides of the door, this is normal in any car since it is impossible to get a perfect seal with a moving window.
The water runs out of the drain holes in the bottom of the door and through the holes in the seal to outside (blue line at left of diagram). Water can build up inside the door if all 3 of the drain holes are blocked with wax or dirt.
The problem is with the foam seal (coloured red on diagram) on the ancillaries carrier, the foam is porous and deteriorates over time, water leaks through this (blue line at right of diagram) and can get onto the carpet in the footwell.
Properly sealing around the foam seal with silicone sealant will stop the water leaking through it, and this water should then also exit via the drain holes.
This will fix the leaking problem in most cases, but water can also leak through holes in the panel. The clips holding the wiring to the panel are fitted through holes – the clips have a foam backing. The speaker seal may also leak or the foam seals for the window motor.
I completely removed the panel to replace broken window clips.
But it is a lot of hassle to remove the ancillaries carrier panel completely since the door lock and window are attached to it.
Check out this guide if you want to :
Door dismantling instructions/Window repair - VWvortex
Could seal around edge of panel whilst in place with silicone sealant, but a better job will be done if silicone sealant is put between the panel and the door where the foam seal is.
Remove all the bolts around the edge of the panel except the ones at the top edge, 10mm socket/spanner needed. Pull the panel carefully outwards at the bottom (might be stuck due to old seal).
Clean around the edge of the panel and old seal with a damp cloth or preferably isopropyl alcohol.
Pull the panel just enough to insert the nozzle of the sealant gun so that the panel does not bend and the window and lock are not damaged.
Use plenty of sealant so that it flows to fills all the gaps when the panel is bolted back in place. Need to completely seal the lower edge of the panel and about half way up the sides.
It is a good idea to put some silicone sealant on the holes before replacing the bolts so that they are well sealed.
There are several different types of silicone sealant. Obviously it is not important what colour it is as it will be hidden. A weatherproof type suitable for outdoor use needs to be used.
There are acetic and neutral cure types, the acetic cure dries quicker but has a strong vinegar smell for a few days which is unpleasant inside the car. I chose a low modulus, neutral cure type since it is more flexible, does not smell during curing and sticks better to porous materials (the foam seal).
The type I used was EverBuild Premium+ 450 Builders Silicone from Machine Mart, cost £2.69
Machine Mart - Silicone Sealant
Need about ½ a tube for each door, and an applicator gun.
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Word document version of guide
is it just me or are the photos not working? i know the thread is old but it would be good if someone has these photos anywhere
Mine is still coming from underneath the foot panel I have sealed under the scuttle panel and the bonnet release pull so I'm confused where else thisbos coming from
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andrewkettle
Guest
Well I think I am fully watertight, after a few good downpours no water on any sills. However I think to get all of the water out I am going to have to bite the bullet and take out the seats etc.
Marv-95 or anyone who has done this, is it easy to put the underlay and carpet back so it looks as it did before you took it out? Not going to look bodged at all?
Marv-95 or anyone who has done this, is it easy to put the underlay and carpet back so it looks as it did before you took it out? Not going to look bodged at all?
I only did the passenger side - someone else recommended disconnecting the battrey first (not sure what other issues you will have when you do this) as it stops the air bag light staying on.
I removed the door trim. I didnt remove the top Carpet I just folded it back and propped it up when the seat was out. I did however have to cut the underlay out with a stanley as I only did the passenger side. Once dry (popped it on a radiator) it goes back in without issue & carpet just rests on top as I didnt remove it, it looks exactly how it did before.
The top carpet was dry on mine - just the underlay was squelching (soaking).
Otherwise you will have to remove the Dor Trim + front Seats/the Central Gear Stick Console and all the plastic trim that covers it. Then the top Carpet and remove the underlay. May as well just cut the underlay out and save the trouble.
I didnt fancy fighting the Gear stick plastic trim etc...
I removed the door trim. I didnt remove the top Carpet I just folded it back and propped it up when the seat was out. I did however have to cut the underlay out with a stanley as I only did the passenger side. Once dry (popped it on a radiator) it goes back in without issue & carpet just rests on top as I didnt remove it, it looks exactly how it did before.
The top carpet was dry on mine - just the underlay was squelching (soaking).
Otherwise you will have to remove the Dor Trim + front Seats/the Central Gear Stick Console and all the plastic trim that covers it. Then the top Carpet and remove the underlay. May as well just cut the underlay out and save the trouble.
I didnt fancy fighting the Gear stick plastic trim etc...
Someone else took theirs to a Car cleaning garage and got them to suck the water out. That may be an option if you didnt fancy removing the seats. ps. seat come out via back door (lie the seat down in horizontal position)
andrewkettle
Guest
Thank you for your quick reply,
I think all of my dampness is pretty much confined to the passenger side too, misses complains there is a mouldy damp smell in the car! I cant smell it but I guess im used to it.
Think I am going to take out the underlay as you suggest - its the only way I will be 100% convinced the problem has gone.
Car was in the bodyshop recently getting the alloys refurbed and a few small dents out and I asked the guy there about taking the seats out and mentioned the airbag light, he said so long as the key is not placed in the ignition the whole time the seat is disconnected this won't affect the airbag light.
Does the trim around the door just pop off? No hidden catches / screws are there?
I think all of my dampness is pretty much confined to the passenger side too, misses complains there is a mouldy damp smell in the car! I cant smell it but I guess im used to it.
Think I am going to take out the underlay as you suggest - its the only way I will be 100% convinced the problem has gone.
Car was in the bodyshop recently getting the alloys refurbed and a few small dents out and I asked the guy there about taking the seats out and mentioned the airbag light, he said so long as the key is not placed in the ignition the whole time the seat is disconnected this won't affect the airbag light.
Does the trim around the door just pop off? No hidden catches / screws are there?
No worries - some of the Door Trim pops off with a yank - but there are screws also but you will see/feel them. The trim that you have to remove is the:-
- Passenger Door Trim first which then goes to,
- Seat Belt Trim (bottom) then,
- Rear door passenger Trim that goes upto,
- tip rear seat forward - trim stops here.
- there are screws in the seat belt trim and the last trim when rear seat drops forward.
When the trim is all removed you can get your hand under the carpet and feel away.
The seat is easy 4x bolts (I think) and a electric cable connection block. Then seat in horizontal postion and remove from the rear passenger door.
Pull the Carpet up and arch it up with your hand to reveal the soggy mushroom infestation that I had. Then cut the underlay out at the slim parts (think 3cuts from memory) and remove.
I drove the car whilst the seat was removed and left it out and the underlay out until it rained. I put Newspaper under the carpet and on it to see if I had cured the leak issue. Had to ensure the underlay was dry any way. I didnt remove the rear seat underlay just checked it.
I cant remember if there were any other screws but Im sure you will see them. Just check first before you yank!!
- Passenger Door Trim first which then goes to,
- Seat Belt Trim (bottom) then,
- Rear door passenger Trim that goes upto,
- tip rear seat forward - trim stops here.
- there are screws in the seat belt trim and the last trim when rear seat drops forward.
When the trim is all removed you can get your hand under the carpet and feel away.
The seat is easy 4x bolts (I think) and a electric cable connection block. Then seat in horizontal postion and remove from the rear passenger door.
Pull the Carpet up and arch it up with your hand to reveal the soggy mushroom infestation that I had. Then cut the underlay out at the slim parts (think 3cuts from memory) and remove.
I drove the car whilst the seat was removed and left it out and the underlay out until it rained. I put Newspaper under the carpet and on it to see if I had cured the leak issue. Had to ensure the underlay was dry any way. I didnt remove the rear seat underlay just checked it.
I cant remember if there were any other screws but Im sure you will see them. Just check first before you yank!!
I think there was some trim on the seat rails and screws also once removed the seat slides back out of the rail tracks.
andrewkettle
Guest
Thank you! I will be attempting this next weekend, will be a relief to see the end of this problem (and the other half moaning about the smell).
There is a guide on removing the seat further down the Faq's so I am confident about that, but I couldent find one about the actuall removal of the carpet didn't want to be buggering anything up.
I will let you know how it goes.
There is a guide on removing the seat further down the Faq's so I am confident about that, but I couldent find one about the actuall removal of the carpet didn't want to be buggering anything up.
I will let you know how it goes.
Told the dealer I got my car from to fix the problem of leaking doors. Told him it was the seal tht had corroded (reading this thread) He as took it to get fixed twice now. First time made it worse, second time it is a lot better but noticed the windows steaming up so i felt the carpets and yes wet!! When I open the doors mainly back driver side water will spill out (like it won't drain through the door Seal) its getting beyond hope. Should I just remove the rubber seal at the bottom of the door? Would that work? 
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Luke - are you sure that they are taking the door apart or just sealing the outside. On mine when you opened the passenger side door pools of water were sat on the sil. Water gets into the car by then going under the plastic trim and directly to the underlay which absorbs it and is eventually sucked into the Carpet. So when it leaks it is on the wrongside of the rubber seal at the bottom of the door. Removing the seal won't do any thing as the leak comes from higher up. (if that makes sense). Can you watch them as they do the work??
Bee - The only place I read on here was the Pollen Filter which is under the bonnet top right hand corner (passenger side) where it meets the windscreen. Sometimes its not fitted back correctly after a Service. I don't know of any leaks drivers side by the pedals
Bee - The only place I read on here was the Pollen Filter which is under the bonnet top right hand corner (passenger side) where it meets the windscreen. Sometimes its not fitted back correctly after a Service. I don't know of any leaks drivers side by the pedals
Don't quote me on this but is there not a small fuse or electrical box around that same area that the seal can perish and cause a leak into the pedal area.
I'm sure I read this on here somewhere but I may be wrong.
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Yeah you are right I have used butyl seal all around the electrcal box but still having a trickle . So annoying
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