Wiring diagram doesn't show it. The weird thing it the cable seems to come out of the yellow plug, that goes into the head unit, and is only 10cm long, so I can't work out what it does, I don't think it can to anything!
Seat reverse camer badge
- Thread starter p11lkw
- Start date
Wiring diagram doesn't show it. The weird thing it the cable seems to come out of the yellow plug, that goes into the head unit, and is only 10cm long, so I can't work out what it does, I don't think it can to anything!
That's a bloody great mod p11lkw
Very tempted. Have the RNS already.
You ought to go into production.
Very tempted. Have the RNS already.
You ought to go into production.
![[B)]](/forums/styles/seatcupra/oldforumsmileys/shades.gif "Cool [B)]")
leon_sport
Guest
Hi there
I'm blind - I can't see this bung. Do I have to take my rear bumper off to access it?
I am going to fit a camera in the reg. plate recess and am hoping that after drilling the bumper, I can find a route for the cables into this bung.
Cheers
You'll have to remove the plastic panel that's inside the boot, surrounding the locking mechanism. There's two plastic screw type things holding it in.
Credit where it's due P11lkw, that is impressive.
I love that you just cracked on with it. Great result!
I love that you just cracked on with it. Great result!
How have I miss this thread? That is the best mod I've seen this year. I've been after a guide like this ever since I fitted the RNS 510. Definitely going to give this a bash in the next few weeks. I've got some questions tho:
1. Is the spring that pulls the servo to its starting position needed? Isn't the spring that returns the badge not strong enough to pull the servo as well?
2. What is the function of the servo tester? I'm familiar with servo within RC cars which I had as a kid but never seen a servo tester.
3. What interface did you use to connect the camera to the RNS 510?
4. Can I request a picture of your RNS 510 screen when the car is in reverse? I would like to the see the camera angle and quality.
Cheers for the great guide
1. Is the spring that pulls the servo to its starting position needed? Isn't the spring that returns the badge not strong enough to pull the servo as well?
2. What is the function of the servo tester? I'm familiar with servo within RC cars which I had as a kid but never seen a servo tester.
3. What interface did you use to connect the camera to the RNS 510?
4. Can I request a picture of your RNS 510 screen when the car is in reverse? I would like to the see the camera angle and quality.
Cheers for the great guide
How have I miss this thread? That is the best mod I've seen this year. I've been after a guide like this ever since I fitted the RNS 510. Definitely going to give this a bash in the next few weeks. I've got some questions tho:
1. Is the spring that pulls the servo to its starting position needed? Isn't the spring that returns the badge not strong enough to pull the servo as well?
2. What is the function of the servo tester? I'm familiar with servo within RC cars which I had as a kid but never seen a servo tester.
3. What interface did you use to connect the camera to the RNS 510?
4. Can I request a picture of your RNS 510 screen when the car is in reverse? I would like to the see the camera angle and quality.
Cheers for the great guide
1. The spring is definitely needed to aid inclosing the catch along with the servo.
2. Now the servo driver/tester is used to operate the servo. As far as I now this was easiest/ cheapest way to operate the servo.
3. Kufatec rns510 universal reverse camera interface aprox £130. Requires vcds to code
4. Request of course, just taken tonight.
If you have any info on operating the servo differently please post thanks
Thanks for all the information and the picture looks great. I'll start pricing and sourcing the items. 
Hi,
Progress has been slow on making the reverse camera badge. First of all the badges on the pre-facelift are larger than the facelift ones. This meant I had to return the first one I ordered and order a facelift one. Secondly there is not as much space around the metal housing on a facelift boot. So I'm going to have to fit the servo to the boot rather that the metal housing of the badge, not ideal but it should work.
I would appreciate it if you help me:
1. I have made the loop to power the camera, voltage regulator and servo tester. I'm going to use the live from the reverse light. But where is the best place to ground it?
2. What is the best route for the video cable from the boot to behind the dash?
3. I have got the KUFATEC Interface and have downloaded the fitting instructions but still can't figure it out. I received the interface and two cables. One cable has an 18 pin connector that connects to the interface and a 28 pin connector at the other end to connect to the RNS. But there is four loose wires near the 28 pin connector, not sure what needs to be done with these wires. The second cable has a female yellow video plug at one end and two wires at the other. I think these wires need to be connected to the 18 pin connector that will go into the interface.
appreciate the help
Progress has been slow on making the reverse camera badge. First of all the badges on the pre-facelift are larger than the facelift ones. This meant I had to return the first one I ordered and order a facelift one. Secondly there is not as much space around the metal housing on a facelift boot. So I'm going to have to fit the servo to the boot rather that the metal housing of the badge, not ideal but it should work.
I would appreciate it if you help me:
1. I have made the loop to power the camera, voltage regulator and servo tester. I'm going to use the live from the reverse light. But where is the best place to ground it?
2. What is the best route for the video cable from the boot to behind the dash?
3. I have got the KUFATEC Interface and have downloaded the fitting instructions but still can't figure it out. I received the interface and two cables. One cable has an 18 pin connector that connects to the interface and a 28 pin connector at the other end to connect to the RNS. But there is four loose wires near the 28 pin connector, not sure what needs to be done with these wires. The second cable has a female yellow video plug at one end and two wires at the other. I think these wires need to be connected to the 18 pin connector that will go into the interface.
appreciate the help
Hi Dan
1. You can use the earth at the lights.
2. I routed the cable from the boot through the passenger side rubber gaiter then down and along/underneath the passenger side sill trims then up underneath the glovebox to the radio.
3. The 4 wires don't connect to the interface. They have writing on them I think as follows
1. Wasser= earth
2. Steady plus = permanent live not ignition
3. Can hi = can hi
4. Can low= can low
All wires can be found at the back of radio rns510 has a sticker on top listing all the wires.
Earth and a permanent live are easy. If the are no can hi or can low wires at the back of the radio then they can be found in the drivers footwell just above the wheel arch under the dash. These wires are usually twisted together so they should be easy to spot.
Please note: if extending the CAN wires you must use proper CAN wire and do not use scotch locks
Hope this helps
1. You can use the earth at the lights.
2. I routed the cable from the boot through the passenger side rubber gaiter then down and along/underneath the passenger side sill trims then up underneath the glovebox to the radio.
3. The 4 wires don't connect to the interface. They have writing on them I think as follows
1. Wasser= earth
2. Steady plus = permanent live not ignition
3. Can hi = can hi
4. Can low= can low
All wires can be found at the back of radio rns510 has a sticker on top listing all the wires.
Earth and a permanent live are easy. If the are no can hi or can low wires at the back of the radio then they can be found in the drivers footwell just above the wheel arch under the dash. These wires are usually twisted together so they should be easy to spot.
Please note: if extending the CAN wires you must use proper CAN wire and do not use scotch locks
Hope this helps
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