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VT86, Seat Leon4 4wd k03 285hp => GT28R => GTX2867R Gen2 420hp
- Thread starter VT86
- Start date
Thanks, few upgrades would be nice to test also for exterior. Carbon bonnet and some splitter setup
Few updates, still missing power from my target but notice that downpipe flex is quite bad shape. Needed to be replaced. Wanted to learn something new I bought AC/DC TIG welder for myself. Haven't TIG welded before so welds aren't weldporn quality. TIG is rather good for such low price, friend how TIG welds alot tested and said that it's rather good, torch need small upgrades tough and those are ordered already.
First welds
Next two (some improvements)
This was last flange for the weekend, still far from perfect but at least it looks like tig welded
Also bought Ignitron ECU for next upgrade.
Need to clean enginebay after this "rebuild"
And last just for fun.
First welds
Next two (some improvements)
This was last flange for the weekend, still far from perfect but at least it looks like tig welded
Also bought Ignitron ECU for next upgrade.
Need to clean enginebay after this "rebuild"
And last just for fun.
More tig practise, decided to do also De-cat pipe for testing how much Cat will effect and also if i want to do some 1/4 mile runs or trackdays with Launch, Antilag and NLS.
Almost ready with new exhaust. Need to figure out better outlet and add electric cutout valve somewhere 
Running out first argon bottle
That ass...
Running out first argon bottle
That ass...
Decided to try something else than SeatSport Intercooler. I think that over 350hp is too much for it. I have one EVO X intercooler so my tough was that i will use it. Good quality and will flow enough.
Also tested could I tig weld aluminium (haven't ever tried and anyway TIG is new thing for me anyway)
First half was awful
Second half was better, but not good and I didn't feel very comfortable, So i will try to tag everything together and my mate can do the welding.
After some planing I end up that if I will anyway do most of boostpipes again there's no point to use EVO X FMIC. Bought biggest cooler I could find quickly, which ended to be too big. I don't want to do any modifications to bumper which you can see.
So one size smaller then. This might fit without bumper modifications. Hopefully it's big enough for flow and still good enough to keep temps low enough.
Also tested could I tig weld aluminium (haven't ever tried and anyway TIG is new thing for me anyway)
First half was awful
Second half was better, but not good and I didn't feel very comfortable, So i will try to tag everything together and my mate can do the welding.
After some planing I end up that if I will anyway do most of boostpipes again there's no point to use EVO X FMIC. Bought biggest cooler I could find quickly, which ended to be too big. I don't want to do any modifications to bumper which you can see.
So one size smaller then. This might fit without bumper modifications. Hopefully it's big enough for flow and still good enough to keep temps low enough.
More FMIC installation, I decided to try TIG those aluminium boost pipes by myself. Have to say that it's way over my skills but anyway I managed to weld those. Not pretty but luckily must welds can not be seen.
First boost pipe mod
Then I need to do some beads but I don't have bead roller so had to "invent" something
And there they are.
one annoying mistake with measurements, one pipe have bit short "neck", so lets hope that silicone hose stays on it.
First boost pipe mod
Then I need to do some beads but I don't have bead roller so had to "invent" something
And there they are.
one annoying mistake with measurements, one pipe have bit short "neck", so lets hope that silicone hose stays on it.
Boost pipes kinda ready, and tested with air compressor (+2bar)
Also swapped ME7 to Ignitron, installed software and drivers to laptop and build some kind base map. All this took 34min and car was running smoothly from first start
Ordered new fuel rail + FPR holder and billet injector cups to my manifold and M12 connectors for custom can bus
Also swapped ME7 to Ignitron, installed software and drivers to laptop and build some kind base map. All this took 34min and car was running smoothly from first start
Ordered new fuel rail + FPR holder and billet injector cups to my manifold and M12 connectors for custom can bus
Few updates from weekend
Adding extra CAN bus wiring and swap seat heater switches to cup holder
Some extra wires to OEM harness
Also ordered few nice bits for the car, seems that this thing got out of the hand
Now Seat project have to wait for while, it has been kind of winter storm and snowed half meter during last few days. Apparently end of the week snowing starts again.
Started snowing Saturday afternoon/evening and Sunday mid day situation was this:
Adding extra CAN bus wiring and swap seat heater switches to cup holder
Some extra wires to OEM harness
Also ordered few nice bits for the car, seems that this thing got out of the hand
Now Seat project have to wait for while, it has been kind of winter storm and snowed half meter during last few days. Apparently end of the week snowing starts again.
Started snowing Saturday afternoon/evening and Sunday mid day situation was this:
Some mods that I did to cluster during summer. I was too annoyed VAG style temperature gauge sitting all the time in 90°C. So I did measurements with VCDC and use very accurate variable resistors to simulate temperature sender. Some mapping, calculations with EXCEL, testing and re doing. Now Gauge shows acurate readings from starting point to ~83C and after that it sit to 90°C until 96°C reached and then it show again real readings. That I wanted to make to avoid too much movements with warm engine.
"DIY" sender tester
Here is stock stepper motor (gauge needle movements). Basically it does nothing between 1.9°C - 60°C and then start to move linearly. When engine is 74°C it's already showing 90° on cluster and stays there until 108°C.
Same time i Did adjustments to cluster Fuel consumption gauge because I have too big injectors to scale in ME7.5 correctly. Well Now with Ignitron I have to scale consumption reading again closer to stock scale I guess.
"DIY" sender tester
Here is stock stepper motor (gauge needle movements). Basically it does nothing between 1.9°C - 60°C and then start to move linearly. When engine is 74°C it's already showing 90° on cluster and stays there until 108°C.
Same time i Did adjustments to cluster Fuel consumption gauge because I have too big injectors to scale in ME7.5 correctly. Well Now with Ignitron I have to scale consumption reading again closer to stock scale I guess.
Some boring updates from yesterday. Spend almost 3 hours at garage and mostly this was all I did
Few extra inputs/outputs added to OEM harness. At the moment I will need on or two of those but decided to make "full" AUX harness anyway
Also wanted to keep "OEM" look so I ordered few connectors. Unfortunately one connector which meant to be used with MAF connector was wrong size. Need to find correct one or changes the plans.
Few extra inputs/outputs added to OEM harness. At the moment I will need on or two of those but decided to make "full" AUX harness anyway
Also wanted to keep "OEM" look so I ordered few connectors. Unfortunately one connector which meant to be used with MAF connector was wrong size. Need to find correct one or changes the plans.
So Sunday fun day, more practicing with TIG. Decided to add electric cutout valve to bypass silencer.
Then some cutting and grinding
Almost there, have to modify first V-band flanges because I had only those better centering V-Bands and I cant use those if I want to take valve out for some reason. First idea was to use some kind flex in pipe but there was only 6cm (bit over 2 inch) for flex and I didn't find so short ones for 2.5" - 2.75" pipe
Then some cutting and grinding
Almost there, have to modify first V-band flanges because I had only those better centering V-Bands and I cant use those if I want to take valve out for some reason. First idea was to use some kind flex in pipe but there was only 6cm (bit over 2 inch) for flex and I didn't find so short ones for 2.5" - 2.75" pipe
Hope so and also hope that it will ease making power. Btw that's only silencer in the car.
Idea will be that I have 3 position switch inside car. Always open, always closed and ECU controlled. I'll map Ignitron so that after certain boost and rpm it will be open.
Updates, flex fuel sensor is working, added also fuel pressure senor and oil pressure sensor. All connected to ECU.
Also fixed and solved exhaust cut out control. Had to use MOSFET to invert ecu gnd signal to +12v signal. Made wiring harness with 3 position switch so that I can also manual control it.
Yesterday I started to do new intake pipe for turbo. I had bad feeling that silicone hose is collapsing. It was tricky position and I think that heater core hose was pushing it it little bit too much and that might cause collapse during high loads.
Not pretty but it was already victory for me to manage weld that. Well and it fits which is most important I think. Need to find broken 3" MAF somewhere or make some kind tube there. And yes it's still missing breather pancake valve connection.
And last but not least started to make tablet view
Also fixed and solved exhaust cut out control. Had to use MOSFET to invert ecu gnd signal to +12v signal. Made wiring harness with 3 position switch so that I can also manual control it.
Yesterday I started to do new intake pipe for turbo. I had bad feeling that silicone hose is collapsing. It was tricky position and I think that heater core hose was pushing it it little bit too much and that might cause collapse during high loads.
Not pretty but it was already victory for me to manage weld that. Well and it fits which is most important I think. Need to find broken 3" MAF somewhere or make some kind tube there. And yes it's still missing breather pancake valve connection.
And last but not least started to make tablet view
Thank you
Small upgrade after planing this already some time. I decided to take my power chase to next level. Time to try new inlet camshaft
New intake cam is my friends old custom cam. Grinded from original and specs was "it's like NA cam but bit more lift and duration and modified timing. It should work with out lash caps"
Small upgrade after planing this already some time. I decided to take my power chase to next level. Time to try new inlet camshaft
New intake cam is my friends old custom cam. Grinded from original and specs was "it's like NA cam but bit more lift and duration and modified timing. It should work with out lash caps"
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