Going to build a race 1m

[Manic172]

Been doing this on my breaks at work so taken me a bit of time but it's finally nearly done.. we'll done enough to show you lot.

Right is consists of a race technology dash2 digital dash . A summit talon touch thing for ignition starting the car lights, fans etc instead of the stalks by the steering wheel.
The red button will be linked in to the fire extinguisher system. Then there is the other 4 buttons. They are for controlling the dash. I still have to mount a rs323 9 pin plug for programming the dash bit that shouldn't be to hard..... I hope

 

[e_cupra]

Looks top that mate!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Manic172]

There is a back panel to go on the binical but I left if off so you could see all the wiring that will have to go on in there

 

[Manic172]

Sorry boys and girls it's been so long since an update. But I hadn't had time to get to the workshop. And then spent last week redoing the oil coolers as they hung to low. But now have them sorted

Now they don't hit the side or the bottom of the bumper

 

[Manic172]

Morning all. Right. Sorry about the lack of updates but I have just basically been moving bits and bobs about. And buying more for the beast..
So the steering wheel has arrived with all fixing and bits

I have gone for a 2 button set up. 1 us going to be for flashing the strobe style head lights. And then the other is for brake line lock. That is a basic solenoid in the front brake line. If you press the brake peddle to the floor then press the button it then closes and holds the brakes on. The find the biting point raise the revs , when the lights go out just release the button and it will then in turn release the brakes .
I went with a 330mm sparco steering wheel. And a lifeline snapoff steering boss. The splined end will be welded to the steering coloum when built to suit the seating position.

I even brought it a little cover to help keep it clean.... and keep it warm too

 

[Manic172]

Also where we had to do some fabrication to the front panel, plus lighten it by removing all that's not needed. Then making the radiator and coolers fit we have had to sand it back and reprimer it.

Then we lightened the front doors. Cut away all the excess material on the inner of the door. Then we removed the side impact protection bar too.... we have a roll cage now.. also noticed at the top edge of the door it had 3 different sections and layers of metal. So with the trusty grinder cut it out then drilled out the spot welds. And separate the sections, then weld 1 back in for the window rubbers to fit to.
Then they had to be primered too.

 

[Manic172]

We have been spending alot .... far to much for what this car is going to be but then that's the fun and joys of motorsport.... we have bought the engine ecu and a pdm unit. A pdm is like an electrical fuel box but with no fuses. It moniters the draw on the different circuts then if it goes funky it just turns it off... you can program it to try again or up to 3 attempts . I could have used a conventional fuel box but that's boring and this is shiney.
It's called a award wire pdm25. It can control up to 25 circuits. Purchased from https://www.stmotorsport.net/
I can't recommend them enough. They are so helpful and very very knowledgeable and will help you thew what ever you need to buy. Also they give full back up to any thing you buy from them.
Next the ecu is an omex ecu I bought straight from omex them
I went for the omex 600 ecu and wiring kit. .
I mounted them on to a sheet of 2mm carbonfiber and then with 20mm ally upstand to hold them off the floor.
When they finally get fixed in to the car they are going to have 1mm rubber washers to help stop vibrations going threw them

On to the power. The car is going to have a varley 40 size battery in it. But I don't need that yet. But I did buy a vmep battery clamp-holder from https://www.vmep-ltd.co.uk/
Again they are so knowledgeable and they design and make some amazing equipment.

And I think finally we want for the cartek xr battery cut system. Full electrical cut out for the car. But with added time delay for the ecu to shut down same as your computer... you can just pull the plug but it's not good for the electrical systems.

That is just the control unit. The will be a button mounted out side on the scuttle panel for the marsahals to use to cut the electrics and also one on the dash binical too for me to press if it all goes a bit wonkey....

 

[Manic172]

I forgot we done this too.... we added the electrical cut out and fire extinguisher decals to the binical. Also mounted the red control know for the bias pedal box too. I know it's only little things but we can spend a whole day there and the car looks no different lol.
Some times it's bloody amazing what we archive but then others it's hours and hours and when you look it's like 5 steps back , but it's all progression.....

 

[Manic172]

OK I lied about not doing alot.. I didn't realise how long ago I posted and what it was about.
We have mounted the pedal box on to a plate off aluminium with the front edge bent down wards.
Under the plate it 25mm box section ally too.
The plan is to mount the pedal box to the structure then mount the lot to the floor.
But before we do that we need to weld the seat rails in and pull a string line to find the center of the seating position. Then mount the steering coloum them mount the pedal box squarly and with in reach to feel comfortable.

Another job it to grind the lip down around where the gear stick comes threw. This is because as we are going to move the seat back and the peddle box back too. Then make a new or extend the steering coloum. The position of the gear leaver will then need to be moved backwards too for a comfortable use .
But again can't mount this until we get the seat rails in. Hopefully this Saturday they are being welded in

 

[Manic172]

After a long workshop.. as normal it all goes funky.... so after lineing up and measuring for seat rails . We welded them in

Then measuring the seat base and mounting holes to line up the brackets. Then welded the mounting brackets to the rails to mount the seat too.

 

[Manic172]

But as normal... nothing is straight forward... the seat hits on the cage and transmission tunnel..

 

[Manic172]

So I feel there is going to be some cage modifications. Also I think I will cut a section out of the tunnel to move the seat over too.

Sorry about the drawing. But some thing like this. To move the seat over. Then will have to move the steering coloum over too. Then I can mount the pedals too.
But then by doing this I think I will have to move the gear stick too. So I ground down the lip around the hole and will plate that later.
But then the tunnel drops and narrows. So again a quick scribble later I think I will need to make some thing like this

To widen and make a base for the gear stick mounting .


More updates on Monday.. when the grinder comes out this car is going to be the death of me

 

[Thai-wronghorse]

Nice work fella but gutting about the seats, what's on the agenda to gain clearance?
Rejigging the cage?

Edit: ok you've answered above in the milliseconds between our posts

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

 

[Thai-wronghorse]

Jeez that's a lot of chopping and re-fabrication for the amount gained.
Surely it's easier to change the cage a bit?

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

 

[Manic172]

Thing is with the cage it's built to a msa/fia regs. So if I move cut or bend bits it may be pulled up as not to spec. So if I just move the seat over couple inches. Then I also get more clearance from any side impacts and help weight distrabution across the car ........ hopefully. As its now going this far... do I then cut the floor on the passenger side then to build in a side exit exhaust....

 

[Manic172]

Grinder and drill are out.... bits are flying...

Who needs a hand brake any way.....

 

[MATT RILEY]

Me= cut the top of the seat!

 

[Manic172]

Me= cut the top of the seat!

I would have but it was 1200 for the seat and my head would be near it too. Lol. Its killing me this car.. but no one close shares the same idea as me lol

 

[MoToJoJo]

Thing is with the cage it's built to a msa/fia regs. So if I move cut or bend bits it may be pulled up as not to spec. So if I just move the seat over couple inches. Then I also get more clearance from any side impacts and help weight distrabution across the car ........ hopefully. As its now going this far... do I then cut the floor on the passenger side then to build in a side exit exhaust....

I was looking at side exit ideas (in order to make room for a bigger diffuser). Personal choice is to follow the stock path but go straight before the axle bend, brings it out through the rear N/S jacking point cover area (I never use the jacking points anyway) n can use the Audi TT jack pad to mount a hanger

 

[Manic172]

Also made a brakcet to hold the duckting for the brake cooling pipe

Just keeps it more rigid and out the way.