what have you done to your car today ?

Sl1ced

Active Member
Oct 10, 2020
797
404
@iammooks Just the right time. I've been looking at fitting the later cupra bumpers for mine but wasn't really wanting to pay more than £17000 for the front one. :ROFLMAO:

@Sl1ced I tried whacking a 19mm multi point socket over the k-nackered locking wheel nut yesterday. It got a decent grip on it but ultimately span on it without releasing it. I'm going to have admit defeat and take it to a garage to get them to remove it.

I had one that did that. One out of four wouldn’t budge....... I can’t actually remember how I got it off now actually. Took a day or two


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Sl1ced

Active Member
Oct 10, 2020
797
404
I had one that did that. One out of four wouldn’t budge....... I can’t actually remember how I got it off now actually. Took a day or two


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May have tried some Old Testament sockets. I 100% got the **** out though.


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Battoussai

Active Member
Mar 22, 2016
474
130
Portugal
I guess it would be more appealing this way:
Preço Ebay.jpg
 

Rich.T

Active Member
Feb 15, 2020
1,609
932
Ordered an ally bung and a length of hose to convert my catch tank to vent to atmosphere.

The forge charge pipe turned up a few days ago, still in the boot lol. I'll fit that at the weekend.
 
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Sl1ced

Active Member
Oct 10, 2020
797
404
Ordered an ally bung and a length of hose to convert my catch tank to vent to atmosphere.

The forge charge pipe turned up a few days ago, still in the boot lol. I'll fit that at the weekend.

Nice mate. That’s how mines going to go too I think


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welshy46

Active Member
Dec 6, 2015
37
44
Maanchestorr
fuel rail and injectors from an Audi TT 225 and a new 4 bar FPR arrived earlier. Got them fitted although the fuel rail isn't the same as the Cupra 180 version but I managed to wrangle it into place. Said a quick prayer to any deities that might be listening and it fired straight up and runs well. I was concerned they would need some kind of mapping to work on the AUQ engine but no. The car even runs a little smoother, maybe the original injectors needed servicing or something.
Went back home and after leaving the engine to cool off a bit I fitted the 4 bar FPR and everything is tickety boo. Well nearly everything, after replacing the fuel pump relay and replacing the lower dashboard and refitting the light switch. I've buggered the light switch and the rear fog lights are stuck on when the ignition is on. even with the lights switched off, so it's back to ebay to find a light switch. Luckily there are plenty of Cupra's being broken.
My 1.8t cheese rods t shirt arrived from Decimal tenths as well, which is nice. hopefully when I get it mapped i don't find out how cheese like my rods are.
1.8t cheese rods.jpg
 
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Sl1ced

Active Member
Oct 10, 2020
797
404
fuel rail and injectors from an Audi TT 225 and a new 4 bar FPR arrived earlier. Got them fitted although the fuel rail isn't the same as the Cupra 180 version but I managed to wrangle it into place. Said a quick prayer to any deities that might be listening and it fired straight up and runs well. I was concerned they would need some kind of mapping to work on the AUQ engine but no. The car even runs a little smoother, maybe the original injectors needed servicing or something.
Went back home and after leaving the engine to cool off a bit I fitted the 4 bar FPR and everything is tickety boo. Well nearly everything, after replacing the fuel pump relay and replacing the lower dashboard and refitting the light switch. I've buggered the light switch and the rear fog lights are stuck on when the ignition is on. even with the lights switched off, so it's back to ebay to find a light switch. Luckily there are plenty of Cupra's being broken.
My 1.8t cheese rods t shirt arrived from Decimal tenths as well, which is nice. hopefully when I get it mapped i don't find out how cheese like my rods are.
View attachment 23948

Lol


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Dazzalcr

Active Member
Aug 10, 2019
302
284
Lancashire
Well its been a busy few weeks or so waiting, re done engine bay inlet manifold been powder coated throttle body been painted to match also redone coolant cover and adapted washer bottle made a cover plate to hide the cap what would have been there, new injector seals and thermatec gaskets and billet injector cups. Also these kickplates came today ready for when car gets resprayed in a cool color complete strip its having doors off glass seals out bumpers off proper job sadly in a few months is that.
Pic 1 is old engine bay, pic 2 new look pic 3 kickplates. Thats my update lol phew 😃
 

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Connor H

Active Member
Dec 19, 2019
1,023
503
Essex
Well its been a busy few weeks or so waiting, re done engine bay inlet manifold been powder coated throttle body been painted to match also redone coolant cover and adapted washer bottle made a cover plate to hide the cap what would have been there, new injector seals and thermatec gaskets and billet injector cups. Also these kickplates came today ready for when car gets resprayed in a cool color complete strip its having doors off glass seals out bumpers off proper job sadly in a few months is that.
Pic 1 is old engine bay, pic 2 new look pic 3 kickplates. Thats my update lol phew 😃
Tidy! Where do you get those metal covers by the inlet mani? Wonder if they do one for the other mani layout
 

iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
1,784
1,172
Went for a drive with the girlfriend, so a good run on a-roads took care of the battery light for a little while.

Every year when it gets warmer though, I start hearing a knocking or tapping sound from the rear right side of the car. It's not the window - it's further back - but it does my head in. Speed doesn't affect it but bumps in the road or body roll does. I was thinking maybe the shocks, as everything should be tight on the rear end so it can't be anything else, but when I opened the boot, I heard a similar sound, so am wondering if it's a problem with the boot strut.

It's weird that it goes away in the colder weather though...

Any ideas?


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Yellow fr

Gone to new owner so seat less for now
Sep 6, 2018
1,547
1,062
Sandbeds West Yorkshire
Went for a drive with the girlfriend, so a good run on a-roads took care of the battery light for a little while.

Every year when it gets warmer though, I start hearing a knocking or tapping sound from the rear right side of the car. It's not the window - it's further back - but it does my head in. Speed doesn't affect it but bumps in the road or body roll does. I was thinking maybe the shocks, as everything should be tight on the rear end so it can't be anything else, but when I opened the boot, I heard a similar sound, so am wondering if it's a problem with the boot strut.

It's weird that it goes away in the colder weather though...

Any ideas?


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Remove the boot strut and go for a drive and see if the noise goes away


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Yellow fr

Gone to new owner so seat less for now
Sep 6, 2018
1,547
1,062
Sandbeds West Yorkshire
Removed my lower arms and changed the bushes for some upgraded ones what fun need to do the tracking again now and also found my rear pads shims so I can put them soon too so I can get rid off the brake noise when I wash the car or when the brakes get wet


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Rich.T

Active Member
Feb 15, 2020
1,609
932
Or take my missus out for a drive in your car?
You wont even be able to hear the stereo, let alone a boot rattle.
 
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Rich.T

Active Member
Feb 15, 2020
1,609
932
Finally got my car to a hand car wash today.
I could do it myself but logistically difficult (and a little lazy) lol.
Looks nice but will need to be done almost every week as the yard at work is megga dusty and its heart breaking to see how bad the cars get up there.
 

Sl1ced

Active Member
Oct 10, 2020
797
404
Went for a drive with the girlfriend, so a good run on a-roads took care of the battery light for a little while.

Every year when it gets warmer though, I start hearing a knocking or tapping sound from the rear right side of the car. It's not the window - it's further back - but it does my head in. Speed doesn't affect it but bumps in the road or body roll does. I was thinking maybe the shocks, as everything should be tight on the rear end so it can't be anything else, but when I opened the boot, I heard a similar sound, so am wondering if it's a problem with the boot strut.

It's weird that it goes away in the colder weather though...

Any ideas?


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Isn’t that where the fuel filter is? Maybe worth poking your noggin under and making sure that’s not bouncing about lol


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iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
1,784
1,172
Remove the boot strut and go for a drive and see if the noise goes away


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I'm probably going to stick some rags or something in there next time I drive it to see if that stops it. It's a nightmare - in the winter my lower dash creaks because it's cold (I'm going to stick a rubber washer in behind the screws when I take it off to do my boost gauge) and in the summer there's that creak from the rear.

Isn’t that where the fuel filter is? Maybe worth poking your noggin under and making sure that’s not bouncing about lol


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What kind of urchin goes crawling round on the ground to change their fuel filter? ;) Diesel ones are in the engine bay because we have to change ours more often. Actually no, we're *supposed* to change ours more often but at the sky high price of less than ten English pounds, it's just too expensive to do more than once every ten years.


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Sl1ced

Active Member
Oct 10, 2020
797
404
I'm probably going to stick some rags or something in there next time I drive it to see if that stops it. It's a nightmare - in the winter my lower dash creaks because it's cold (I'm going to stick a rubber washer in behind the screws when I take it off to do my boost gauge) and in the summer there's that creak from the rear.



What kind of urchin goes crawling round on the ground to change their fuel filter? ;) Diesel ones are in the engine bay because we have to change ours more often. Actually no, we're *supposed* to change ours more often but at the sky high price of less than ten English pounds, it's just too expensive to do more than once every ten years.


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Ah diesel!!! I forgot haha


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