8bit's Mk1 Leon Cupra R. Scarlett - as in Johansson...

[worzel]

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Tried to adjust it, trim it etc. a few times but it kept pinching like that. Friday before last I was a bit drunk after a night out and at some point discovered and ordered this:
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brilliant...most of my mods have been ordered this way...inhibitions out the window!!

 

[8bit]

Tried to adjust it, trim it etc. a few times but it kept pinching like that. Friday before last I was a bit drunk after a night out and at some point discovered and ordered this:


brilliant...most of my mods have been ordered this way...inhibitions out the window!!

Yeah panicked for a moment in case I'd ordered a set of coilovers or a full Milltek or something

Logistics conspired against me last night so didn't get the FMIC fitted, shame cos the weather was nice for it. I did manage to change the battery tray for the trimmed one so I can use the Forge MAP tube, and also did the gear linkage reset trick. This helped the gear changes feel a bit smoother, highly recommended.

Can't get on Youtube to provide a link cos I'm at work but if anyone's not heard of it and fancies it it's on Youtube, search for "Dieselgeek gear linkage reset" and that should bring it up. On a LCR you'll need to remove the battery and tray to get at the locking pin, either that or have tiny hands

 

[dreago 1]

Yeah panicked for a moment in case I'd ordered a set of coilovers or a full Milltek or something

Logistics conspired against me last night so didn't get the FMIC fitted, shame cos the weather was nice for it. I did manage to change the battery tray for the trimmed one so I can use the Forge MAP tube, and also did the gear linkage reset trick. This helped the gear changes feel a bit smoother, highly recommended.

Can't get on Youtube to provide a link cos I'm at work but if anyone's not heard of it and fancies it it's on Youtube, search for "Dieselgeek gear linkage reset" and that should bring it up. On a LCR you'll need to remove the battery and tray to get at the locking pin, either that or have tiny hands

Todo this do you need to have the quickshift?

 

[8bit]

Todo this do you need to have the quickshift?

Nope, worked fine on mine and I haven't got quickshifts.

 

[dreago 1]

May have go tonight. There was another video on you tube on a golf box. Same principal I guess?

 

[8bit]

Not sure, I can't get on Youtube from work to check. There was a thread on it in the mk1 Leon section (that's how I originally found it, search in mk1 Leon section for "gear linkage reset") which has this link to the same video on Vimeo:

http://vimeo.com/6881683

At the end of the video he explains the slight difference between the 5spd and 6spd boxes, obviously for a LCR you want the 6spd procedure

I ended up using a 4mm allen key to hold the gear lever in line with the housing, didn't have any bent nails around and didn't want to use a drill bit for fear of it falling through. Hardest bit is pushing the shifter down just far enough to be able to push in the little lever and turn it up the way but it's do-able.

 

[dreago 1]

Thats the video I watched. Did you have to take the battery out?

 

[8bit]

Yep, and the battery tray. Otherwise you'll only manage to reach past the tray to the locking pin if you've got the hands of a six-year old

 

[dreago 1]

May have to leave it till saturday then, I do not have any children too asist in this task. Is the battery tray and batt hard to get out?

 

[dreago 1]

Did it make a noticable difference? Mine has done about 77K and never had it don to my knowledge. I have had her from about 46K

 

[8bit]

You can do it in an hour easy. I'd never taken the battery out, let alone the tray, I managed the whole thing including working it all out, doing the linkage reset, changing the battery tray, and putting it back together in about an hour.

It does feel a bit smoother on gearshifts, yes. Mine was a bit stiff when the car is cold, particularly in 1st and 2nd. All the gearchanges feel nice, smooth and positive now. I've done just over 20k since I got my car about 2.5 years ago, it's on just under 64k now and as far as I know this had never been done prior to me buying it. It's a 55-plate.

EDIT - as far as tools go you'll need a socket set with a decent length extension and a reasonable selection of head sizes, plus a medium-size Philips screwdriver to get the nearside headlight cover and air duct out the way.

 

[dreago 1]

I have a socket set with an extension bar, so that’s ok and the screwdrivers I have as well. What is the nearside headlight cover and air duct? Is that the feed to the air filter/box?

 

[EL]

Good work on the gear linkage reset. Makes such a difference. I thought I had issues with my gearbox at one point but found it was just where the linkages were out of alignment. Now I have silky smooth changes and no force needed to get into gears

 

[8bit]

Yep, that's it, immediately in front of the battery box. There's two screws to remove the cover behind the headlight and another two to remove the air duct just to the left of the headlight cover. You can get away with just removing the headlight cover but it'll be a lot easier maneuvering the battery out of and into the tray if you remove both - it's very and there's not a lot of room around there.

 

[8bit]

Good work on the gear linkage reset. Makes such a difference. I thought I had issues with my gearbox at one point but found it was just where the linkages were out of alignment. Now I have silky smooth changes and no force needed to get into gears

Yeah it's a nice trick My gearbox oil was changed about 14k miles ago so it's probably past its' best, I'll do that next time I service the car which should make it a little better still.

 

[dreago 1]

I dont think I have either anymore. The air feed got removed when fitting the filter/heatshield/TIP, got fed up taking it off and on considering the TIP took a million attempts to get on and stay on, should probablly put it back on really, and I dont think I have that cover.The car had; had a prang before I got it so it probablly got broken then.

 

[8bit]

Just had a look on your thread and it's a bit hard to tell from your engine bay photos but no, it doesn't look like the air duct and headlamp cover are there.

 

[dreago 1]

No I just compared them to yours. I know I have the air ductin a box in the shed but not the lamp cover. I sit necessary?

 

[8bit]

They're not necessary as such, they're just there to channel air in through that pipe that runs inside the nearside wing to the standard airbox. I still use that pipe to provide cold air to the filter inside the heatshield so I keep the headlight cover and the ducting. I'll get round to sorting a cold air feed once I've installed my FMIC and made room for one by removing the SMICs.

 

[ThatGuy]

The colour red is amazing on the LCR