LCR light weight edition, Getting broken up

[RobDon]

One good reason to get rid of it! I've had zero problems after removing the heat exchanger in favour of an oil cooler, definately keeps the oil temps in check during hard use.

Keeping the heat exchanger in place means you're trying to heat the oil and cool it too, the oil cooler is far more effective at cooling than the heat exchanger, keeping it in place compromises the oil coolers performance.

It is generally recommended to remove the heat exchanger when fitting an oil cooler to get the full benefit of the improved cooling. Keeping the heat exchanger in place with 100+ degree coolant running through it isn't a very effective oil cooling solution.

 

[Phillc]

One good reason to get rid of it! I've had zero problems after removing the heat exchanger in favour of an oil cooler, definitely keeps the oil temps in check during hard use.

Keeping the heat exchanger in place means you're trying to heat the oil and cool it too, the oil cooler is far more effective at cooling than the heat exchanger, keeping it in place compromises the oil coolers performance.

It is generally recommended to remove the heat exchanger when fitting an oil cooler to get the full benefit of the improved cooling. Keeping the heat exchanger in place with 100+ degree coolant running through it isn't a very effective oil cooling solution.

Exactly why i removed mine, and as said no problems at all.

 

[PhilW]

When i get round to fitting mine the heat exchanger will be in the bin. Pointless having it if you're fitting a cooler imo.

 

[Willie]

I will be binning the heat exchanger when I fit my set up.
BTW thanks to Danny for this set up.
Another reason for me binning this is it'll push the filter end very close to the radiator but more because they will be fighting against each other in their jobs making the whole system work harder and possibly reducing their lifespan.
Looking forward to getting my hands on the BDM baffled sump as I've been told this is thee one to fit on the 1.8T and the fact its based on the Seat Sport one proves its a design which is track proven too.
When fitting this 'll be changing out the 106,000 miles oil pump and doing the timing belt, water pump etc.
The winter mods are stacking up already

 

[Phillc]

Yeah i really need to change my oil pump (115,00 miles now) should really have done it when i did the pick up pipe, my list of things to do is mounting as well, cam chain tensioner, both cv joints, oil pump, replace blown hid ballasts.......all the bits are in the garage just waiting for the weather to improve....

 

[DannyC87]

I will be binning the heat exchanger when I fit my set up.
BTW thanks to Danny for this set up.
Another reason for me binning this is it'll push the filter end very close to the radiator but more because they will be fighting against each other in their jobs making the whole system work harder and possibly reducing their lifespan.
Looking forward to getting my hands on the BDM baffled sump as I've been told this is thee one to fit on the 1.8T and the fact its based on the Seat Sport one proves its a design which is track proven too.
When fitting this 'll be changing out the 106,000 miles oil pump and doing the timing belt, water pump etc.
The winter mods are stacking up already

Not a problem, I'd rather it went to someone who is going to use their car properly than just stick it on ebay! It should be on its way to you.

 

[RobDon]

I've had zero problems with the BDM baffled sump, unlike the INA one!

 

[Willie]

I've had zero problems with the BDM baffled sump, unlike the INA one!

Yeah cheers Rob it was mostly your recommendation that pushed me into this one
High five

 

[PhilW]

BDM on mine as well, zero problems and works really well. Great bit of kit.

 

[Indy]

Water temperature reading in my car at any given point once its warmed up is 90 degrees and not 100+

Not sure on what proof people are basing their facts on I've tried both the setups and found out that running the heat exchanger with the oil cooler gave me better oil temps when thrashing the car.

In my setup, there is plenty of room for the oil filter after the sandwich plate....

 

[PhilW]

Water temperature reading in my car at any given point once its warmed up is 90 degrees and not 100+

Not sure on what proof people are basing their facts on I've tried both the setups and found out that running the heat exchanger with the oil cooler gave me better oil temps when thrashing the car.

In my setup, there is plenty of room for the oil filter after the sandwich plate....

But your sensor is in the housing, where the oil cooler is and potentially where coolant cools the oil

Id be happier with a sump based sensor.

 

[DannyC87]

saw someone post a similar picture.. even the background. weird.

to what??

 

[RobDon]

A sensor in a sandwich plate will never give a true oil temp reading (before or after the oil cooler plate?), needs to be in the block or the sump. Likewise the OE water temp gauge is rubbish. I have both water and oil temp sensors in the block and the both temps move up and down all the time, the dash water temp sits at 90 the whole time while my Defi gauge moves between 80 and 110.

You can get sump plug adapters that let you have the sensor in the sump plug, saves taking the sump off and tapping it for the sensor. I use the 42DD adapters, very good stuff:

http://store.42draftdesigns.com/VW-mk4-18T-Water-Temp-Adaptor_p_60.html

http://store.42draftdesigns.com/Universal-Oil-Temp-Adaptor--Drain-Plug_p_58.html

Having 2 sandwich plates doesn't sound very sensible either, sorry. Keep it simple, less chance of leaks or innaccurate readings.

Just all IMO of course, based on real world experience and results on both road and track.

 

[Indy]

Having 2 sandwich plates doesn't sound very sensible either, sorry. Keep it simple, less chance of leaks or innaccurate readings.

I agree with this bit and at the time didnt know if there were any other options available to locate my oil pressure and temp sensors.

 

[Willie]

Well got a bit of free time today and the weather is good so got 2011 modifications and fixes started.
The rear near side brake caliper has been binding for a while and TBH I've never really done any maintenance on these since bought the car 8 years ago, lol.
So some TLC and was needed.

Got the car jacked up and removed both wheels, removed the caliper off the disc and removed the pads. There was obviously more wear on the drivers side but both discs are both looking well. With the caliper off it was very difficult to wind back the piston on both sides so TLC is long over due.

These were stripped bare of pistons and seals.

I've taken these down to as little bits as I'm confident to do. hope to be able to get seals for these from Lucas's local place. I don't think Seat do these but will be on the phone to David at SereMotors on Monday anyway.

As I managed to pick up a newish caliper last year and fit this I still had my original on sitting in the shed. This had leaking pistons and was due for a strip for further investigations.

As you can see it was obvious that the fluid had been breaching the seals and had distorted the dust caps. The pads had always been really difficult to fit on this side and on closer inspection it was obvious why.
The fluid had been getting behind the slider plates and pushing one out, narrowing the gap for the pads.

On investigating this I hoped to remove the slider bolt and clean up below this, but as this gets extreme abuse and was looking impossible to remove I chose a different route.
With a flat file I dressed off the piece that was sticking out.

I'm even going to paint and lacquer the rear calipers which is so unlike me but hopefully will help their longevity.
These will be painted in Halfords high temperature red paint and lacquered, the front one will be touched up only.

Next will be to drop out the rear coilovers, change out the top mounts and build back up.
The rear discs are good for at least another year, that pads will be changed out for new ones.

 

[D.K]

What top mounts are you going for Willie ?
Maz is useing these http://www.034motorsport.com/chassi...trut-mount-early-audi-density-line-p-987.html He rates them highly so I'm thinking of getting the same for when I get my Coil overs

 

[Al]

Al maybe swing in by as am back in the vicinity.

 

[Willie]

What top mounts are you going for Willie ?
Maz is useing these http://www.034motorsport.com/chassi...trut-mount-early-audi-density-line-p-987.html He rates them highly so I'm thinking of getting the same for when I get my Coil overs

Not too keen on any 034/INA products TBH.
So I'll be going OEM

 

[Willie]

Al maybe swing in by as am back in the vicinity.

Would be good to see you as always

 

[EL]

Your callipers look like mine.........a job for the summer for me. Needs a proper clean out and re-paint job!