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Results look good Willie, but i would fit a manual boost controller to clip the peak boost to about 20 psi.... to keep your rods happy and also it will hold boost slightly better nearer the red line. I would also fit one of Bills 3 inch tips to improve high rev boost and power also. Although untested on a stock k04 car it will improve things without doubt as the collasping oem tip syndrome exposes the fact that the stock intake can't satisfy demand for even a stage 1 state of tune. By doing the above Willie the power delivery will change for the better. The peak boost ain't doing you any favours unfortunately despite the fact that it looks great at first glance.
Im with you on that, the N75 is slow to react so by the time it drops duty to recover from the spike you lose out on mid range, which is what you're seeing boost and power wise. Id run a bit more than 20psi tho. lol.
We had this a lot on high spiking revo on k03s, known to a few of us as "the 4k dip".
I know what your saying about the 20 psi recommendation but if it gives the best torque curve overall why not. To give an example i was running 308-312 bhp @ a peak of 24 psi. i dropped the spike to 20psi and am still breaking the 300 bhp barrier. Rods and clutch are protected and the difference in driving is a much smoother affair with better traction to boot. 20psi does sound a little gay though i admit.
Dave, Carl, Bill and Phills I really appreciate you comments on this.
As expected all that everyone has to judge my car by is this RR plot.
Perhaps the spike is high. I have been advised on several occasions to get and fit a good boost and AFR gauge by my mapper. There are still issues with the car that are as yet unresolved. The map on the car was sold to me on the understanding that ANYTIME I wanted anything done to it all I needed to do was ask. This has been proven to.be true.
I need to get the timing belt done, VVT sensor leak/rocker gasket leak sorted during the winter. I also need to fit the AGE and boost gauges. Once this is all done perhaps some other weeks to the map can be done, if needed.
The power delivery.on the car is very smooth and progressive but with that pretty savage too. I'm super impressed with my figures from a stage 2 car. I would love the opportunity to go head to head with a KO4 hybrided car to.see the difference in the real world, not just in theory/on paper. There are no hybrided LCR's up here but there is a GT2871 in the making and.a GT28RS. I've been up against a 400 BHP MK2 Leon before mapping was complete and there was very little in it between the two.
I'd be very interested in getting a 3" tip and also routing my CAI better. I also have a race battery still to pay for and fit to allow better CAI routing.
There has always been a dirth of people providing real world analysis of maps, RR graphs with ACTUAL FACTS. Until this is done its all supposition based on how a car feels.
Perhaps we could get our heads together and set up something to allow the cold hard facts to shine through the supposition and hearsay.
How about a log of 30-70 MPH runs logged on VAG com?
As expected all that everyone has to judge my car by is this RR plot.
Perhaps the spike is high. I have been advised on several occasions to get and fit a good boost and AFR gauge by my mapper. There are still issues with the car that are as yet unresolved. The map on the car was sold to me on the understanding that ANYTIME I wanted anything done to it all I needed to do was ask. This has been proven to.be true.
I need to get the timing belt done, VVT sensor leak/rocker gasket leak sorted during the winter. I also need to fit the AGE and boost gauges. Once this is all done perhaps some other weeks to the map can be done, if needed.
The power delivery.on the car is very smooth and progressive but with that pretty savage too. I'm super impressed with my figures from a stage 2 car. I would love the opportunity to go head to head with a KO4 hybrided car to.see the difference in the real world, not just in theory/on paper. There are no hybrided LCR's up here but there is a GT2871 in the making and.a GT28RS. I've been up against a 400 BHP MK2 Leon before mapping was complete and there was very little in it between the two.
I'd be very interested in getting a 3" tip and also routing my CAI better. I also have a race battery still to pay for and fit to allow better CAI routing.
There has always been a dirth of people providing real world analysis of maps, RR graphs with ACTUAL FACTS. Until this is done its all supposition based on how a car feels.
Perhaps we could get our heads together and set up something to allow the cold hard facts to shine through the supposition and hearsay.
How about a log of 30-70 MPH runs logged on VAG com?
Well the cars balls deep in snow just now but it doesn't stop me spending money on it.
BDM baffled sump, oil cooler and thermostatic sandwich plate coming my way
BDM baffled sump, oil cooler and thermostatic sandwich plate coming my way
Yes and no.
I don't do things by half so the project I was going to do is on hold.
But the car will still be further track prepped but just not to the standard I was going to go to.
I'm going to only run the LCR during summer next year and pick up a proper 4WD for the winter months.
Prob a landy or a SWB Shogun
I don't do things by half so the project I was going to do is on hold.
But the car will still be further track prepped but just not to the standard I was going to go to.
I'm going to only run the LCR during summer next year and pick up a proper 4WD for the winter months.
Prob a landy or a SWB Shogun
Well the cars balls deep in snow just now but it doesn't stop me spending money on it.
BDM baffled sump, oil cooler and thermostatic sandwich plate coming my way
Hey Willie, when you fit the oil cooler and the thermostatic sandwich plate, are you planning on taking off the factory heat exchanger?
I tried doing that and ended up putting the heat exchanger back in cause it took a very long time for the oil to heat up and stayed nearly 10degrees hotter than standard.
Well the cars balls deep in snow just now but it doesn't stop me spending money on it.
BDM baffled sump, oil cooler and thermostatic sandwich plate coming my way
Hi bud, have you got any photo's or links of the gear you've ordered?
These pieces are 2nd hand.
Indy, I'll have to look into this as I believe it can cool too much, but placement will be the key or baffles
Indy, I'll have to look into this as I believe it can cool too much, but placement will be the key or baffles
With the heat exchanger & oilcooler in place, I did a track day at Silverstone at the end of August, the temperatures were peaking between 105 - 109 degrees using Motul 15w50..
A Dual oil pressure and oil temp SPA gauge. I have 2 sandwich plates after the heat exhanger one of this gauge sensors and the other for the oilcooler.
I'm going to be using 10w-60 Millers motorsport oil with a sump temperature sensor.
Testing will have to be done to ensure I can get to at least 90 degrees.
I believe the sump temperature is the important one for the spec of oil to use
Testing will have to be done to ensure I can get to at least 90 degrees.
I believe the sump temperature is the important one for the spec of oil to use
The mocal thermostatic plates open at 81 degs. I have not seen any issues with the oil taking ages to heat up on any of the cars Ive fitted them too without the oil/water heater. My car would run around 90 degs on normal driving and on track it would be upto 120 degs.
I removed my exchange heater and run the thermo sandwich plate and my oil heats up no problem, although i have not been on the track the temps are down, when cruising about the temp sits at 190 no problem and when giving it bit it sits between 210- 215 which is what it used to run when driving normally with the oe set up. I have my temp sensor in the spare location on the filter housing. Indy where did you put the cooler?
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If your facing the car then its the front left of the FMIC, on the side of the lock carrier.
I get better cooling with both the heat exchanger and the oil cooler in place.
Overcooling shouldn't be an issue with the thermostatic sandwich plate Willie. It only sends oil to the cooler when it reaches 83* (from memory), then rest of the time your heat exchanger will do the job.
On a side note, whilst you are meddling in that area, might be worth putting a new heat exchanger on. Mine broke recently leading to a coolant system full of oil and an expensive bill to clean up the mess! They are only 30GBP or so...
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