Well this made me chuckle Niall - I have been thinking long and hard about my issues again, and have realised that when I use my N75 switch (essentially unplugging it) the car is no longer noticeably slower, there is only a very minor change in how much power I have available.... This is making me wonder if I also have an N75, so I did a quick search for 'faulty N75' and see that my '
problem buddy' is thinking the same things haha!
As far as I can see, unplugging the N75 leaves it in its open state, I.E. feeding all the input to the wastegate (effectively bypassing any N75 functionality) and running minimal boost...
I don't know whether or not it is worth trying it with the N75 unplugged if you are thinking it is sticking? as this should leave it in the one state... having said that however, obviously you will run a lot less boost, so if it is something like a split hose creating a boost leak, the lower boost may not escape and you will think the
problem is resolved as well....
This may not be of much
help but just thought I'd mention the fact that you can try with the N75 disconnected just as another thing to try maybe?
Oh and you won't get an EML from it although it will log a fault code on the ECU showing N75 signal intermittent - scan the car with vagcom before trying this to see if there are any error codes shown with the valve supposedly operating normally, then try it unplugged and clear the code afterwards
Ben