No you need to read the full thread, and Nev's thread, don't go blindly into it. Do your research and the results will pay off. Preparation, preparation, preparation!
You also need the MAP sensor hard pipe from Forge.
Also, something like JB-Weld to fabricate some beading on the pipes.
I'll be doing a build up thread as well...
brad1
Guest
That is everything you need mate, you may want to purchase the forge map sensor pipe if you want, also you just need to make up your own brackets and also work out how your going to reduce the intercooler pipework down from 64mm to 60mm where it joins the standard two top intercooler hoses
Just remember to follow our guides
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one way or another i was intending on changing the hoses i only bought the kit for the hard pipes as they are cheaper than forge. I will be purchasing some joiners later today for mine then i have the lot. Im also changing my charge pipe with these hard pipes and joiners so no worry about needing the connecting joining hoses that you would have to buy from forge or ths .
Mark
.Mark
That is everything you need mate, you may want to purchase the forge map sensor pipe if you want, also you just need to make up your own brackets and also work out how your going to reduce the intercooler pipework down from 64mm to 60mm where it joins the standard two top intercooler hoses
I've just bought some THS top boost hoses, were these a waste of money then? Should I have thought about continuing the pipework right up to the charge pipe and throttle body?
In my personal opinion it was a waste of time as im predicting youve just splashed about £100 on those two hoses where as i just ordered some hard pipe for this. When i get home and put it together by the weekend hopefully i will post some pics and do a write up.
Mark
Mark
Are these the ones ???
http://www.thsperformance.co.uk/product/Boost_Hoses_VAG_210-225bhp_THSSIL-VAGBST-225-Black
http://www.thsperformance.co.uk/product/Boost_Hoses_VAG_210-225bhp_THSSIL-VAGBST-225-Black
So you mean hard pipe 90 deg up to the charge pipe then just using a coupler? The same with the throttle body end?
intercoolers are looking good think i mite start to get my own one set up but was just wondering if for the people who have just started looking if the people who have built theres could put a picture of the intercooler and there shopping list for what they bought up so people can see the different choices
A few parcels have landed over the last couple of days
I now have the Forge MAP sensor tube/pipe. A nice selection of Mikalor clamps and the THS top boost hoses.
At first I'd thought I'd made a bit of booboo in ordering the THS boost hoses as they are designed for standard LCR boost piping which is 60mm outside diameter. The piping kit I have ordered is 2.5" (63-64mm) and when I offered it up to the 2.5" MAP sensor pipe I thought, oh crap, it won't go over! Waste of money?
I did some more research to see if they did 64mm to 60mm reducers, which nobody does so went back to the original threads by Nev and this one. I noticed Nev had THS boost hoses as well so thought he probably was using 57mm piping (notice the reducers on his cooler inlet/outlet pipes) but then saw a comment he made about 'enjoying how tightly the THS hoses sit' and re-thought it again.
Out came the Manchester screwdriver approach and with a little lubrication and much brute force and twisting, the N/S THS pipe eventually slid onto the MAP tube, result! A nice snug (read effing tight) fit!
The alternative of course, is to either hard pipe all the way to the charge pipe and throttle body or use the standard rubber hoses.
I think I prefer the THS hose route as it looks neater, there will only be one clamp on either side as opposed to 2 clamps (onto the silicone coupler) on display under the bonnet..
Cooler and pipe kit should land tomorrow, then just waiting for the JB-weld and I'm good to start
Spoke to Jim at Awesome also, he's convinced me that the APR Stage 2 map is the way to go.
I now have the Forge MAP sensor tube/pipe. A nice selection of Mikalor clamps and the THS top boost hoses.
At first I'd thought I'd made a bit of booboo in ordering the THS boost hoses as they are designed for standard LCR boost piping which is 60mm outside diameter. The piping kit I have ordered is 2.5" (63-64mm) and when I offered it up to the 2.5" MAP sensor pipe I thought, oh crap, it won't go over! Waste of money?
I did some more research to see if they did 64mm to 60mm reducers, which nobody does so went back to the original threads by Nev and this one. I noticed Nev had THS boost hoses as well so thought he probably was using 57mm piping (notice the reducers on his cooler inlet/outlet pipes) but then saw a comment he made about 'enjoying how tightly the THS hoses sit' and re-thought it again.
Out came the Manchester screwdriver approach and with a little lubrication and much brute force and twisting, the N/S THS pipe eventually slid onto the MAP tube, result! A nice snug (read effing tight) fit!
The alternative of course, is to either hard pipe all the way to the charge pipe and throttle body or use the standard rubber hoses.
I think I prefer the THS hose route as it looks neater, there will only be one clamp on either side as opposed to 2 clamps (onto the silicone coupler) on display under the bonnet..
Cooler and pipe kit should land tomorrow, then just waiting for the JB-weld and I'm good to start
Spoke to Jim at Awesome also, he's convinced me that the APR Stage 2 map is the way to go.
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63mm to 60mm reducers here.. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/STRAIGHT-REDU...s_SM?hash=item334cd172e1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
Has anyone fitted a universal FMIC to an LC yet?
I'm looking into doing this and after looking at the kit forge offer for the LC, I've noticed the inlet and outlet are on the same side. With this in mind, I presume piping will be easier to route.
What are anyone views on this one? On both the design and core size.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Medium-FMIC-t...s_SM?hash=item5633c24530&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
Has anyone fitted a universal FMIC to an LC yet?
I'm looking into doing this and after looking at the kit forge offer for the LC, I've noticed the inlet and outlet are on the same side. With this in mind, I presume piping will be easier to route.
What are anyone views on this one? On both the design and core size.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Medium-FMIC-t...s_SM?hash=item5633c24530&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
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63mm to 60mm reducers here.. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/STRAIGHT-REDU...s_SM?hash=item334cd172e1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
Has anyone fitted a universal FMIC to an LC yet?
I'm looking into doing this and after looking at the kit forge offer for the LC, I've noticed the inlet and outlet are on the same side. With this in mind, I presume piping will be easier to route.
What are anyone views on this one? On both the design and core size.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Medium-FMIC-t...s_SM?hash=item5633c24530&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
Unbelievable, mind you it was late when I was searching.
Robdon has fitted one but then again his is extensively modified. I think Adam_cupra has as well. Mind you, you only have to read this thread and Nev's build thread to suss out who has and who hasn't.
The trouble with the forge kit with the inlet and outlet on the same side is they use the cars original piping to the turbo [restrictive pancake pipe etc] and this is not what I wanted so I've bought a normal cooler with a inlet one side and outlet the other and I'm planning to fit it like the golf boys do.
I will get some pics when its done.
Looking at that above cooler I not sure the inlet and outlet are far enough apart.
I will get some pics when its done.
Looking at that above cooler I not sure the inlet and outlet are far enough apart.
I'm going to have the bumper off this weekend and do some measuring. I know that you can get replacements for the pancake pipe, so may be an option, although I did read an article somewhere saying that the pancake pipe wasn't actually restrictive..
I just thought it'd be a lot less hassle in terms of pipework.
I just thought it'd be a lot less hassle in terms of pipework.
I've got this replacement pipe it flows 26% more than the pancake pipe BUT its pancake in shape so it doesn't hit the wheel on full lock and when you put the bigger one on it obviously does.
If you were to fit a normal cooler you wouldn't have either of these proplems as it would be on other side of engine bay.
Out of interest Adam, how do you route the piping BACK from the N/S of the cooler?
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