Is S1 B2 the second Lambda and S1 B1 the First one (on DP?) can somone please confirm as i think this fault is with the secondary which i thought was mapped out with Revo Stage 2?
that is definately your post cat Nick... is it plugged in?
i cant remember what fault i get, im sure its the same. dont worry about it...
hehe makes your excuse for AMD absolute rubbish
you still getting the EGT fault?
i cant remember what fault i get, im sure its the same. dont worry about it...
hehe makes your excuse for AMD absolute rubbish
you still getting the EGT fault?
yup, but looking at the logs mate im flowing less air with less timeing, so thats whats wrong. dont know why tho ? Strange. I can see why air would be highter with the dule feed, but timeing? Maybe its more advanced cause u flow more air? I need look look over your old loggs, I think after i fit my other feed ill put the timing back to +/- o and log..
Greg confired S1 B2 is Cat. Its plugged in, but spaced out so i recon its got caught and broken a wire. Ill look over it at the weekend. Got allot to do this weekend.
Greg confired S1 B2 is Cat. Its plugged in, but spaced out so i recon its got caught and broken a wire. Ill look over it at the weekend. Got allot to do this weekend.
List of things to do at the weekend!
Re-mount HID Ballast
Re-polish Inlet manifold.
Clean air filter, then log
Finish off twin CIA, then log
Cut Dynatwist housing up, then log
Take install out, work on new look.
Whilst install is out, look at putting the battery in the boot using OEM Battery mount.
Clean, clay, polish, wax.
Fit Meth Cutoff switch.
Re-mount HID Ballast
Re-polish Inlet manifold.
Clean air filter, then log
Finish off twin CIA, then log
Cut Dynatwist housing up, then log
Take install out, work on new look.
Whilst install is out, look at putting the battery in the boot using OEM Battery mount.
Clean, clay, polish, wax.
Fit Meth Cutoff switch.
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This weekend was a long one, went round Aarons house friday night and put the bat in the boot using the standard battery tray. After beeing woken up at 6:50 i get up to sort out the twin airfeed and custom map pipe.
Here are som pics
It was then i went off to Aarons work where he kindly sorted out with my new Dynatwist casing.
Then it was back to Aarons for a bit of a cleaning session and then up early again for DC2009 where i cam second place for beat SEAT and got my first trophy!
Cant run some logs yet as iv got a few problems i need to iron out. Should get it sorted on wed where i can run some logs and see how much more air im flowing.
Here are som pics
It was then i went off to Aarons work where he kindly sorted out with my new Dynatwist casing.
Then it was back to Aarons for a bit of a cleaning session and then up early again for DC2009 where i cam second place for beat SEAT and got my first trophy!
Cant run some logs yet as iv got a few problems i need to iron out. Should get it sorted on wed where i can run some logs and see how much more air im flowing.
Nice work guys.
How do you take the lcr bumber off, do you drop the wheel arch liners and unscrew the rails or do you just slide off the rails. (i do the latter)
Is it 76mm alloy bends you use for both air feeds.
For reference just to prove in standard form just how crap the dyatwist is, i ran it tonight in its housing with only a crappy home brew duct pointed at the intake mouth and i barely flowed 200g/sec. In this level of tune i make 218 easily with an open cone.
Twin air feeds as you boys are doing from the fogs is the only way to go, and since the filter is part open to the bay area if ever you hit a deep puddle .... water will just rises to the outside level in the CAI but not progress into the TIP since air will be drawn from the Bay. Perfect.
How do you take the lcr bumber off, do you drop the wheel arch liners and unscrew the rails or do you just slide off the rails. (i do the latter)
Is it 76mm alloy bends you use for both air feeds.
For reference just to prove in standard form just how crap the dyatwist is, i ran it tonight in its housing with only a crappy home brew duct pointed at the intake mouth and i barely flowed 200g/sec. In this level of tune i make 218 easily with an open cone.
Twin air feeds as you boys are doing from the fogs is the only way to go, and since the filter is part open to the bay area if ever you hit a deep puddle .... water will just rises to the outside level in the CAI but not progress into the TIP since air will be drawn from the Bay. Perfect.
Yup it is a perfect system. I was going to buy a Cupra R bumper to copy Aaron 4-5 months back but prioritized for other things.
Ok, TBH i cant remeber what size the bends were now. Nick has a better memory than me. i always find it very difficult sliding the bumper past the headlight and so i always remove the liners and unscrew them.
is the housing still in one piece?
is the housing still in one piece?
Sliding it off is a pita and putting it back on is a pull back then push forward if i remember, so this time i'll try unscrewing them ..... less potential for damage too.
Yep Its a virgin housing, untouched by human hand..... ready to be deflowered.
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I used an 80mm for the drivers side as it slights in to the 80 MM CIA, the pasenger side is 60mm (ill check for sure tonight) and slides in to the whicks y peice with some heat from an air gun.
Im looking forward to getting it all back together so i can see how effective this MAP pipe is.
ALso need to get another pipe welded on so i can return my cold side kit and fill in some space.
Im looking forward to getting it all back together so i can see how effective this MAP pipe is.
ALso need to get another pipe welded on so i can return my cold side kit and fill in some space.
Dave, a question to pick your brain.
Ref advancing timing, what would be best for a dyno run?
(this is old data but only using as an example as i run no CFs @ +3'o now)
If the engine has only just got up to temp, I can get no CF’s when running at +6 but then as it heats up it produces CF’s, I was thinking of letting the car cool down pushing the timing to +6 or 7 then running it? What would you advise? If you look on my thread there are no CF’s till I’m at 7.25 then as I retard the timing (to where I was running before with no CF’s) I’m getting CF’s where I was not before (I’m guessing to engine getting hot).
Also on a log, when I see the timing of 21'o with CF's of 3 on 3 cylinders is the resultant timing 18'o on those cylinders? Or is this taken in to account and displayed correctly?
Cheers
Ref advancing timing, what would be best for a dyno run?
(this is old data but only using as an example as i run no CFs @ +3'o now
)If the engine has only just got up to temp, I can get no CF’s when running at +6 but then as it heats up it produces CF’s, I was thinking of letting the car cool down pushing the timing to +6 or 7 then running it? What would you advise? If you look on my thread there are no CF’s till I’m at 7.25 then as I retard the timing (to where I was running before with no CF’s) I’m getting CF’s where I was not before (I’m guessing to engine getting hot).
Also on a log, when I see the timing of 21'o with CF's of 3 on 3 cylinders is the resultant timing 18'o on those cylinders? Or is this taken in to account and displayed correctly?
Cheers
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With water methanol, you should not be suffering the heat soak problems that others do - your air charge is being cooled by the methanol.
In my opinion, the reason you are getting CFs is because your timing is too advanced. With wmi and timing set up correctly, results should be reasonably repeatable. You need to set it up so you can get repeatable results in logging. Also, I don't think a few degrees difference in intake temperatures gives CFs. CFs come from combustion heat. Too hot = CFs = timing too advanced (or too lean a mixture).
Another thing to remember with CFs is that if the ecu picks them up low down the rev range during a power run, it will keep on throwing them in for protection all the way up the range. Booting the car too low down will build early heat in the combustion chamber and that's going to cause CFs.
Knock sensors pick up a little bit of pre-ignition and ecu gives CFs).
In my opinion, the reason you are getting CFs is because your timing is too advanced. With wmi and timing set up correctly, results should be reasonably repeatable. You need to set it up so you can get repeatable results in logging. Also, I don't think a few degrees difference in intake temperatures gives CFs. CFs come from combustion heat. Too hot = CFs = timing too advanced (or too lean a mixture).
Another thing to remember with CFs is that if the ecu picks them up low down the rev range during a power run, it will keep on throwing them in for protection all the way up the range. Booting the car too low down will build early heat in the combustion chamber and that's going to cause CFs.
Knock sensors pick up a little bit of pre-ignition and ecu gives CFs).
Not so much heat soak, but engine temperature. When I started running logs the oil was at about 70'o and after a few power runs the oil temp soon reached 100'c still was pulling very nicely but thats a 30'c oil temp increase so would the engine not be hotter too, causing more CF's occur.
Would it be stupid to push the timing for a dyno run based on CF logs from a cooler engine, if the car is only being run twice when the oil/engine has just warmed up? When upping the timing I produced no CF's at 6'o but when I came back down to 6'o there was loads.
Would logging EGT with CF's help get a better idea of how when the engine warms up the combustion temps increase?
Would it be stupid to push the timing for a dyno run based on CF logs from a cooler engine, if the car is only being run twice when the oil/engine has just warmed up? When upping the timing I produced no CF's at 6'o but when I came back down to 6'o there was loads.
Would logging EGT with CF's help get a better idea of how when the engine warms up the combustion temps increase?
I think 30 degrees increased oil temperature is a result of heat in the block which the coolant is trying to carry away. That heat comes from combustion. 90-100 degree oil temps are in the normal range - and I'd say you should be setting your timing up to cope with this - not lower temps.
I totaly agree and thats what i have done, im +3'o now with no CFs and getting a bigger nozzle on the way so hopefully push it a bit more.
Im just tempted for when it goes on the rollers to push it highter and dyno from a cooler engine, for better results.
Im just tempted for when it goes on the rollers to push it highter and dyno from a cooler engine, for better results.
How's the air flow going. I built a new map pipe set up on the weekend, bumper still off at the mo as i'm mingeing about trying to see what i will do for induction set up. The thing is i have bought so much silicon over the years and when i get to try an idea in my car i find i change my mind and i'm left with all these expensive bits and pieces . They always get used eventually though. Do you have a scrapyard of abandoned projects and bits and pieces that are unused.
WMI is next for me but i'm still learning from yourself and Dave and seeing how you guys are progressing with it. I doubt i'll be using meth though, purely water cooling for me. Do you think its still worth doing for a water only system.
. They always get used eventually though. Do you have a scrapyard of abandoned projects and bits and pieces that are unused. WMI is next for me but i'm still learning from yourself and Dave and seeing how you guys are progressing with it. I doubt i'll be using meth though, purely water cooling for me. Do you think its still worth doing for a water only system.
My only concern with a cold air ram intake system is that on the road it will do great as the faster you go the more air it feeds the car, but during a RR the car is static and depending upon the strength and position of the fans used will determine how much air the cars get fed. On a poor RR set up the extra length of the ducting may become a hinderance as little air is being force fed and so the tubby goes into suction mode through a long duct length.
Not with the modded dynatwist housing
Yes i would still do the WMI with only water, its amazing how much it cools your engine down. Pop the hood after a ragging and the inlet is freezing, and i mean that litral.
My custom map pipe has not done much for my flow, i think my turbo is maxed out, im going to log boost tonight and see if its down, same flow for less boost will still be worth it. I also gave my filter a very good clean so maybe ill get a few more G/S
Watch this space
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