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RobDon

Pro Detailer
Well I have removed the N75 and wired in a 330ohm 10-watt resistor, we'll see if that works.

Here's a couple of pics of the inside of the airbox I built. I have sealed round the alloy filter trumpet with self-adhesive neoprene foam (awkward place being right on the corner), all the lower and side edges have rubber trim on them and the underside of the lid has heat-reflective material too.

http://i312.photobucket.com/albums/ll330/SonicBlueLeon/airbox1-1.jpg
http://i312.photobucket.com/albums/ll330/SonicBlueLeon/airbox2-1.jpg

So it's a dual-layer box, carbon on the outside and heatshield on the inside. It also has a direct cold air feed from the fog light aperture going into the airbox too.
 

RobDon

Pro Detailer
Nah not yet, I'm not really into doing tons of logs for stuff like air filters.

Devils Own water methanol kit has been ordered, along with an adapter to fit the nozzle into my silicone hose leading up to the throttle body. I ordered it directly from Devils Own.

VW stage 2 kit:
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/wa....html?osCsid=3ae4745cd375e2b980c819012cecbf4b

Nozzle mounting adapter:
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/wa....html?osCsid=3ae4745cd375e2b980c819012cecbf4b

$380 + $48.50 for 6-10 day shipping, comes to $428.50 which is £294.93 at todays exchange rates.
 

jonjay

50 Years of 911
Jun 27, 2005
5,843
1
Essex
Amazing value if you think of the gains compared to big turbo kits. Suprised that not many on SCN have been vocal about the use of wmi etc...

Keep up good work robdon.
 

RobDon

Pro Detailer
Like nitrous I think alot of people think of it as a bit of a 'black art' and steer clear of it. I am hoping to get my car up to around the 325bhp mark with WMI (totally possible if not more given DPJ's results), if I can then I've saved myself a fortune spending £4k on a 325bhp Backdraft turbo kit.
 

wild willy

Full Member
Aug 4, 2003
2,323
0
Wales
Are you going for a single nozzle then or two as Scott suggested.
Looks like a good kit, is the protective system as good as snows.
 

RobDon

Pro Detailer
Single nozzle to start with, going by this page:

http://www.alcohol-injection.com/articles/where-to-locate-your-alcohol-water-injection-nozzle-2/

I think I'll mount it in position 3 because it says:

"Most computer controlled engines have an intake air temperature (IAT) sensor. This sensor monitors the temperature of the air going into the motor. The reason for putting it before the IAT sensor is because it will see the cooler temps and the engine will advance timing, allowing for more power. Also placing the injection nozzle as far from the cylinders/air intake sensor as possible, it allows for the water/methanol mixture to be better absorbed into the intake air charge. This allows for great distribution to each cylinder. This post intercooler nozzle location should be the primary nozzle location to be considered for most users.

In theory, since the air charge will be mixed for a longer distance, and therefore time, allowing for the moisture to be absorbed by the air, creating the coolest possible air charge going into the cylinders. Water/methanol molecules from a nozzle located here have more time to be absorbed by the intake charge exiting the IC before making it into the combustion chamber.
"

I just have to buy some methanol now!
 

Feel

Veedubya 'velle
Jun 12, 2003
4,918
2
Midlands
I understood that you wanted it just in front of the TB for maximum Timing effect, and just after the intercooler for maximum cooling effect.

In reality, it'll be a compromise on where it'll fit, wiring and plumbing etc, and where Dave's fitted his!
 

RobDon

Pro Detailer
I understood that you wanted it just in front of the TB for maximum Timing effect, and just after the intercooler for maximum cooling effect.

In reality, it'll be a compromise on where it'll fit, wiring and plumbing etc, and where Dave's fitted his!

Yes, so for one nozzle somewhere in the middle then! I'll do as much research as possible before deciding where to mount the nozzle.
 

RobDon

Pro Detailer
I had my front bumper off and I remembered that I had a self-sealing 1/8"NPT fitting lying around (which is the thread of the WMI nozzle), so I fitted it into a cold-side intercooler hose, roughly halfway between the IC and the TB, for maximum cooling effect. It's plugged just now but will make installing the WMI kit simple. Leaves the option of adding a smaller nozzle just before the TB as well.

http://i312.photobucket.com/albums/ll330/SonicBlueLeon/insert1.jpg
http://i312.photobucket.com/albums/ll330/SonicBlueLeon/insert2.jpg

People asked to see what I had done in place of the crashbar, so here it is:

http://i312.photobucket.com/albums/ll330/SonicBlueLeon/int1.jpg

Feels rock solid, thick steel brackets bolted into the ends of the chassis rails using M10 bolts and a cross bar made of steel box section, 3mm thick and 25mm x 50mm.

http://i312.photobucket.com/albums/ll330/SonicBlueLeon/int2.jpg

Intercooler is a bar and plate core with offset fins rated to 500bhp, 590mm long x 280mm high x 75mm thick, so far I haven't felt any difference between this and the Pro Alloy IC. Ignore the different colour hoses on the left, they'll be changed to match the right soon.
 

Willie

LCR Track car
Aug 6, 2004
8,939
1
Sunny Scotland
Looks good Rob but a little concerned that the 'C' section beam your using is not in its correct orientation. This will be very very strong but with a very small amount of metal facing the front of the car. The OEM bar has strength in the correct direction.
I do think your bar will be stiffer than the OEM one but not too sure its totally correct
 

jonjay

50 Years of 911
Jun 27, 2005
5,843
1
Essex
Looks good Rob but a little concerned that the 'C' section beam your using is not in its correct orientation. This will be very very strong but with a very small amount of metal facing the front of the car. The OEM bar has strength in the correct direction.
I do think your bar will be stiffer than the OEM one but not too sure its totally correct
100% agree :)
 
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