-
Welcome to our new sponsor Lecatona, a brand dedicated to enhancing performance for VAG group sports cars, including SEAT, Audi, Volkswagen and Škoda. Specializing in High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) upgrades.
DPJ's GTRS Eliminator Install and Development
- Thread starter DPJ
- Start date
Thanks Pat!
As has been said elsewhere, you can't contemplate doing this sort of thing without having full use of another vehicle. The days turn into weeks. I've just lost a full weekend due to the postal strike. I decided not to waste my time chasing after gasket paper - and ordered a gasket to arrive tomorrow.
The job is currently stuck for
*a reducer hose to go between ATP big bore and compressor inlet.
*oil drain hose gasket
*an injector retaining clip.
Longer term it needs,
*one piece shifter cable bridge bracket fabricating.
*Forge LCR FMIC fitting and plumbing in.
As has been said elsewhere, you can't contemplate doing this sort of thing without having full use of another vehicle. The days turn into weeks. I've just lost a full weekend due to the postal strike. I decided not to waste my time chasing after gasket paper - and ordered a gasket to arrive tomorrow.
The job is currently stuck for
*a reducer hose to go between ATP big bore and compressor inlet.
*oil drain hose gasket
*an injector retaining clip.
Longer term it needs,
*one piece shifter cable bridge bracket fabricating.
*Forge LCR FMIC fitting and plumbing in.
Well I've just been away for a week so just catching up on reading last weekend onwards, have to say your doing a great job.....keep going.....you know the way these things work lots of slog then it will all come together in a flash 
Keep us updated
Keep us updated
Think thrice, measure twice, cut once.....
Ok, hoses turned up.
Sleeved inlet, ATP old hose and Forge reducer
Blue Peter stuff. Maybe slightly long - but I think I've got the angle
Will see if I can make it fit on the car later.
Cheers Steve.
Ok, hoses turned up.
Sleeved inlet, ATP old hose and Forge reducer
Blue Peter stuff. Maybe slightly long - but I think I've got the angle
Will see if I can make it fit on the car later.
Ahhhh, now I see what your problem was.
Forge reducer has plenty of length (fnarr-fnarr).
I was going to say that if it doesn't work permanently and if your tame welder can do ally, you could hack the inlet adaptor and point if to the right angle.
But from what you said before, if this doesn't work you'll be designing your own inlet...
Forge reducer has plenty of length (fnarr-fnarr).
I was going to say that if it doesn't work permanently and if your tame welder can do ally, you could hack the inlet adaptor and point if to the right angle.
But from what you said before, if this doesn't work you'll be designing your own inlet...
So this is the only thing stopping the car being started now dave?
When you get chance any chance you could take a few pics for me of the inlet bolted to the turbo and the room between that and the shifter cables. I wanna make make my mind up whether its worth goin DIY on the inlet or buying it.
When you get chance any chance you could take a few pics for me of the inlet bolted to the turbo and the room between that and the shifter cables. I wanna make make my mind up whether its worth goin DIY on the inlet or buying it.
Too easy to stick an elbow on the outlet a la TIP, Phil. A nice fat
straight length of hose (Fnarr-Fnarr) looks the neatest solution, but you need to carry a rock solid shifter cable mount over the top.
Yes Phil, apart from refitting the oil drain.
I'm not quite with you on which shots you need. Please be as specific as you can and I'll try my best.
But does this apply to Phil? I mean you've only had these hoops to jump through because your a six speed?
I wonder if you could either lengthen the cables so they can take a different path, coming in more from the battery side? I mean to take off both shifter "cams" and turn them 90' clockwise, then bring the cables in from that side - would it bring the cables round the back of the TIP.
Or, more crazily, extend the pins on the shifter cams to raise the cables up out of the way?
Might make for a sloppy gear change though.
I wonder if you could either lengthen the cables so they can take a different path, coming in more from the battery side? I mean to take off both shifter "cams" and turn them 90' clockwise, then bring the cables in from that side - would it bring the cables round the back of the TIP.
Or, more crazily, extend the pins on the shifter cams to raise the cables up out of the way?
Might make for a sloppy gear change though.
Ok, i'm after a photo of the room between the turbo inlet and shifter assembly. Basically the room i got to play with.
If its easier dave, email them to [email protected].
I know what you mean feel, it might be a lot easier for the 5 speed O2J. I'm thinkin of using a 3" reducer or elbow reducer onto the TIP and use some 3" pipework to the MAF.
If its easier dave, email them to [email protected].
I know what you mean feel, it might be a lot easier for the 5 speed O2J. I'm thinkin of using a 3" reducer or elbow reducer onto the TIP and use some 3" pipework to the MAF.
Had a little time last night to try to fit the inlet - and it's on. Extremely tight - from above.....
With the whole inlet tract assembled, my RamAir points upward at a strange angle. I need to do a little connector modification up top.
I put the shifter bracket and cables back on. The engine side shifter cable end clamp is rubbing a small rubber coolant pipe. I need to see if I can alter the pipe so that it doesn't stick out so much.
Oil drain back on tonight, hopefully.
PhilW - in the above photo, the flange on the turbo is 25mm, there's 27mm between the flange and the oval inlet, then the tip of the oval inlet to the 'rise' of the first shifter bracket hole is 50mm. The engine side shifter cable is running directly over the top of the clip on the oval inlet.
With the whole inlet tract assembled, my RamAir points upward at a strange angle. I need to do a little connector modification up top.
I put the shifter bracket and cables back on. The engine side shifter cable end clamp is rubbing a small rubber coolant pipe. I need to see if I can alter the pipe so that it doesn't stick out so much.
Oil drain back on tonight, hopefully.
PhilW - in the above photo, the flange on the turbo is 25mm, there's 27mm between the flange and the oval inlet, then the tip of the oval inlet to the 'rise' of the first shifter bracket hole is 50mm. The engine side shifter cable is running directly over the top of the clip on the oval inlet.
feel, what tranny you got? well at the end of the day its a bit messy, but if its tight its fine, maybe softer silicone would work better?! but likei say if it holds and its tight then i would not worry.
my elim kit will be up for sale soon as its in having a custom manifold, dp, and intake made up for my gt2871r. should make around 370bhp with quicker spool than the eliminator.
thanks
myk3
my elim kit will be up for sale soon as its in having a custom manifold, dp, and intake made up for my gt2871r. should make around 370bhp with quicker spool than the eliminator.
thanks
myk3
It's more Ebayable than weldable, Phil. It hasn't got a long term future on my car.
I need to get the car back on the road. At a convenient point, I'll take the oval inlet and brackets off and replace them with a bridging bracket over a straight pipe.
Hmmm. Very tight then, thanks for the info. I wonder how far the shifter brackets will be from the turbo inlet on mine.
You know the inlet that bolts to the turbo, you think a different version like this would clear the shifter brackets...?
You know the inlet that bolts to the turbo, you think a different version like this would clear the shifter brackets...?
Yes Phil, I reckon something like that would fit (as would a 63mm silicon elbow on the flange). I understood the reason for not having an elbow near the compressor inlet on BTs was because they throttled the air supply....
Yeah i read that any degree bends cuts airflow by a certain percentage. But whatever way you look at it your going to have some serious bends just because of the low down position of the inlet on the turbo. I might have drawn it a little acute but you might be able to get away with a large degree bend off the turbo, to get up and over the shifter bracket.
Personally i cant see it bein too bad as IHI uses a standard TIP design to get up to the MAF and the ATP inlet kit goes through a 90 degree bend. And doesnt Robdon use a cobra head 90 on his GT2X?
Food for thought anyway.
Personally i cant see it bein too bad as IHI uses a standard TIP design to get up to the MAF and the ATP inlet kit goes through a 90 degree bend. And doesnt Robdon use a cobra head 90 on his GT2X?
Food for thought anyway.
Any idea what bore ATP's inlet kit is near the compressor inlet?
By the time mine turns 90 degrees, it's over 80mm dia.
I googled ATP big inlet and the third item down says
Standard bore on the turbo inlet on the GT28RS? I thought you knew that dave as you had it sleeved to take it to 3"
I'm sure people have used this in a similar way i was talking about...
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...oduct_Code=ATP-SIL-251&Category_Code=SIL-90EL
Forge do a 76mm to 63 reducing elbow, which if the stock inlet diameter is 63mm it would be perfect to get up and out of the inlet and into a 3" pipe.
I'm sure people have used this in a similar way i was talking about...
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...oduct_Code=ATP-SIL-251&Category_Code=SIL-90EL
Forge do a 76mm to 63 reducing elbow, which if the stock inlet diameter is 63mm it would be perfect to get up and out of the inlet and into a 3" pipe.
Last edited:
Looking at the Leon (tonight) you'd only get a tightly turned TIP on, or something odd like ATP's inlet (surely modelled on SPT ! ) there isn't room for a nice smooth bend.
Similar threads
