Take it of buddy. It's 3 bolts and you will see a hole. Your forge plate goes over that. 2 bolts hold it on. You can block the pipe of under the fuel rail that's the carbon can.take all the hard pipe out mate.. Just be care full removing it.
just done this bypass, only thing that caught me was them horrible crimped original connectors and also the pipe to block off on my car was braided not a normal pipe other than that it went easy, i was carefull manuvering around the dipstick as i know these are a mare for snapping
If I block off the evap pipe. I will put it into error won't it. What I'd I put a new silicone pipe across for the evap so then I can take out the piping.
Glad guy like how it sounds buddy. I think it's a great bypass todo.
You can ether block it off leave it open it join the pipe mate. See how it goes. We need to get photos up of people's bays.. Come on guys.
I can get a pic of mine if you like mate, but its a little different to your idea... As mine is an awkward so and so, it was never happy with n112 removed, I've reinstalled n112 and resistor'd the n249... In a fashion....
Made in Spain, made better in England 223.3hp 263.8lbft
I'm quite mechanically minded and have read the guide loads but still can't quite get my head round it is it different on a LCR as the one in the pics has the inlet the opposite way to mine and I don't know if its that that's getting my head confused haha
Hmmm, lol I think you need to take the plastic cover off that surrounds the dip stick, to have a look at the sensors and pipe work beneath the mani.
It's just a few plastic screws...
Made in Spain, made better in England 223.3hp 263.8lbft
Same as the TT I think they are alot Easier. The ports for the vac lines are on the left side of the mani If I remember just go from there to dv and remove the rest. Ill have a better look when I'm
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