The correct way to do an N249 bypass the full guide

[mc funbot]

let me know how it goes buddy..
post up some pics

 

[Mk1 banana]

Will do mate, it's kinda halfway there, I broke a nipple off my inlet mani I've blocked it up for now, looks easy enough to do, but I use the car every day, so I'm gonna fit a s/h one from fleabay, fix mine, then sell it on, or keep it spare... Not sure there's any difference yet, but I wouldn't expect there to be, as I've got the gauge, dv, and fpr running on one 3mm port atm!
Next time I think I will cut the vac lines off with a knife rather than tug on them lol

 

[mc funbot]

Yes mate I've not had any problems with the nipples snapping of. Was it the one on the inlet man at the bottom that broke? Sure you can fix. No Won't really feel anything with them all of the same buddy.ill have a think. See what I can come up with.

 

[Mk1 banana]

Cheers mate, yeah, snapped flush, it's the one that originally feeds vac/boost pressure to n249 etc...
My idea was to clean up the new one, fit new injector seals, tb and manifold gaskets, and sort the old one out and flog it,
Was thinking of drilling it out, and trying to ind a way to get some 4/5mm brass pipe in the hole...
I guess tapping it in would ruin the end, maybe if I make it too long, tap it in, then trim to size, not sure though :s lol

 

[mc funbot]

Yes mate that should work. Only 1 way to find out

 

[Mk1 banana]

Ill have a go mate or drill it, tap it and screw a (brake) bleed nipple in, might be easier...

Since your bypass though mate, I've got rid of 17705, so far
Tho my sai isn't happy lol, not that I care, I'm more worried about boost loss... Resistors on mine I think, so I can lose some more unnecessary's
Ill keep you posted, if keepin the old n112 and n249 plugged is better, I shall let you know (resistors are peanuts, and my mate's a sparky anyways)

 

[mc funbot]

That's always good. I've done it with cars an kept plugs in an use restores on others all been fine. Sai can be removed it just unplugged for the time being as they are a pain In the ass and pointless.

 

[Harfi]

I need to do this mod to mine as I've got a mechanical fault on the 249

 

[Hamzilla]

The pictures are very good but I find the write up confusing.

Do you cut the brake booster line ?

 

[mc funbot]

The only line you cut an block of is the one that comes of the plate under the inlet mani.

 

[mc funbot]

Picture 11 mate from the top it's the thinner pipe next to the 2 thick ones on the right.

 

[Hamzilla]

Thanks. Ok so the one you've cut and blocked with allen key leads back to SAI port on engine block.
However you've also cut the thicker two on the right, next to it so I'm sure one of those is known as a brake booster line?

BTW I've already done the N249 and have fitted a catch can 3 years ago, but I want to completely remove the SAI.

 

[Mk1 banana]

The other two will be no longer needed mate, as he says, one goes the the vacuum reservoir or 'black box on top of one of the coil packs' an the other is for the dv/ recirc valve only one needs blanking, If you do it right.
You'll need resistors to remove completely, and a blanking plate (£20 on fleabay) or you will get eml come on, and various fault codes...

I believe: 330ohm 10 watts
Ive ordered 5 for good measure...

 

[mc funbot]

Sai removal. Undo the part where you engine temp sensor goes in it's two 5mm Allen key bots just move it you will loose a little coolant. Then undo the three 5mm Allen key bolts that's your Sai off little wiggle it will all come out. Clean up. Fit blanking plate. Then you will have 2 plastic pipes coming up from the bottom of your engine one to the Sai one to air box normally. Take them of go under car undo 10mm nuts around pump take that off undo plug. Resistor that and then three 8mm Allen key bolts take bracket off job done! That's from memory.

 

[Mk1 banana]

Good memory mate, or you've done it too many times lol... Hopefully resistors turn up soon, ill probably do it next week, I don't want to break anything (just my luck) else before my remap on Saturday haha. (I guess I could just just resistor it, and unplug+blank it, and remove when I'm feeling lucky?)

So you have to take a coolant pipe off for it? I never knew, but I've never really looked into it tbh.

 

[mc funbot]

Yes you can do it with out removing it but it's a massive night mate..you don't look a lot of coolant anyway. it's easy. Not much you can break I'm a little heady handed mate you should be fine. I'd offer to help but it's a long drive

 

[Dave_Cupra88]

Looking to do this myself at some point, is this guide suitable for an LCR as well?

Other than the bits in your first picture, is it just a 4mm vac line that's required?

Cheers,

Dave.

 

[mc funbot]

This guide is for a Leon buddy same as audi an VW golf yes just 4mm vac line that's all and follow the pictures if you need to know anything else just ask.

 

[Dave_Cupra88]

My bad, just saw that bit saying it was on some random guy's Leon, must have missed that.

I'll give it a bash mate.

What length of VAC hose do you recommend? Would a metre be enough? I take it it's the 4mm by 8mm I need e.g. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silicone-...t=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item20cc29aa44

 

[Dave_Cupra88]

Another question . Do you leave the allen key bolt in the SAI/EGR pipe? Won't this mean you have to leave one bolt unscrewed when fitting the plate back?