Starting Problems

[kpanic]

Hi

I am having problems with starting my seat arosa 1.4 mpi, the engine turns over when key is turned in the ignition but there is no kick to get it started.
I have changed

Sparkplugs
Coil pack
Ht leads
Dizzy cap
Rotor arm

This did not resolve the issue.

To get the car started I have to spray some carb cleaner fluid into the air intake at the top of the engine after this the engine will start and run as normal. The engine will start as like normal without the use of spraying into the air intake for about 8 hrs.. im assuming when the engine gets cold it wont start. If anyone can help with this I will be amazed.

Thanks

 

[SoozArosa]

I've had the same problem recently. Well when I lived up scotland during term time. I got told it was something to do with the immobulisor. So when you put the key in and turn it makes sure your dash lights are on - that's the first thing to look for before you turn it over, it worked for me.

Then after two months of it being fine, yesturday on the car park at work, it decided cut out so my boyfriend put it on the diagnostic because hes a mechanic and it's come up with a problem with the key, I've heard this is a problem with the 1.4s so you just have to get a new kep cut, usually only £20. Hope this helps

 

[Cornishsteve]

This sounds very similar to the problem mine had with the previous owner. It would start fine when warm, but only from cold after initially priming it with a little petrol in the "carb" body. after a short time doing this the local VW stealership diagnosed a new throttle body was required at well over 300 quid. A second hand body was fitted with no effect and the arosa sat unloved and immobile for many months.As it was about to be scrapped when the mot lapsed, I was offered it for a little over scrap value and bought it. Some questions on the internet ( 205gtidrivers.com of all places) suggested replacing the engine ecu temperature sender - by the thermostat housing- a 5 min job with a free part (polo 1.0) from my local yard and it started brilliantly, and has continued to do so for the past year!

 

[allallyouyou]

Do you hear the fuel injection pump when you turn the key? Could be that if you dont???

Think its connected to fuse 32, something daft like that. Worth checking.

 

[grotmeister]

yeah cornishsteve hit the nail on the head there, sounds like a cold start problem. The engine requires a richer petrol mixture to start cold which is why applying a little petrol to the air intake works. I'd check the temp sensor.

 

[Ben_Dunning]

Im having a similiar problem my arosa will turn over fine just wont kick in. I also have changed the dizzy, rota arm, leads and plugs i have checked whether there was fuel actually going through the system and checked that there was a spark both were fine which lead me to the air box and throttle body. After playing about for about an hour a found that the car will start fine every time when i removed a grey electrical connector (shown in pictures) on top of the throttle body plug it back in and it wont start again. The only problem I have now is im not sure what the connector is im thinking it maybe the MAF sensor but that doesnt really help me cos I havent got a clue what the hell one of them is any help would be much appreciated

I appologise for hijacking your thread thought it might help the both of us

cheers Ben

 

[kpanic]

Ok an update,

I have replaced the MAF sensor – no luck.

I then followed the fuel line from the carb to some sort of one way valve with a pigtail plug on the top. I removed the pipe and found there was no fuel in there.. Usually this is wet with fuel I have been told, I then put the pipe in a bottle and turned the engine over and there was no fuel coming out, so my guess is now a fuel filter.

I have also checked the voltage from my battery, and the voltage on the fuel pump and that seems to be working fine, also all the fuses are intact. The process of elimination has narrowed it down to

• one way valve on the fuel line?
• fuel return box (looks like a cylinder with 2 pipes)
• fuel filter.

If this does not work then im at a loss! Ill keep you updated. 

 

[kpanic]

Im having a similiar problem my arosa will turn over fine just wont kick in. I also have changed the dizzy, rota arm, leads and plugs i have checked whether there was fuel actually going through the system and checked that there was a spark both were fine which lead me to the air box and throttle body. After playing about for about an hour a found that the car will start fine every time when i removed a grey electrical connector (shown in pictures) on top of the throttle body plug it back in and it wont start again. The only problem I have now is im not sure what the connector is im thinking it maybe the MAF sensor but that doesnt really help me cos I havent got a clue what the hell one of them is any help would be much appreciated

I appologise for hijacking your thread thought it might help the both of us

cheers Ben

Hi ben

That plug your talking about by the butterfly valve is called your "IDLE VALVE SENSOR" its connected to the back of the carb with some wires and to replace that you need a new carb. The MAF sensor is "MASS AIR FLOW" this sensor is located on the black plastic by the brake fluid pot and is held on by 2 screws and looks easy to fit and is IF you have the right tools.
If you need one of these let us know ive got one spare.

 

[kpanic]

I have replaced the fuel filter! … aaaand the same problem still !
The only thing that’s left now is the charcoal filter in the engine bay, im thinking that to by pass that and plug the fuel line directly onto the pipe.. that HAS to solve the problem! - if it does then a new charcoal filter it is!

Ill keep you guys posted!
Is there a way to clean a charcoal filter? Or does anyone have one smashed up to see what’s inside? OR EVEN BETTER.. does anyone have one for the price of postage?

 

[Boo]

Do you know anyone with a VAGcom in your area at all ? Might be worth giving that a run to see what errors it throws up. My friend had a similar problem with her MK1 golf and it turned out to be the cambelt

 

[allallyouyou]

Im glad your still trying, a cross section of people would have scrapped it by now

 

[Cornishsteve]

This sounds very similar to the problem mine had with the previous owner. It would start fine when warm, but only from cold after initially priming it with a little petrol in the "carb" body. after a short time doing this the local VW stealership diagnosed a new throttle body was required at well over 300 quid. A second hand body was fitted with no effect and the arosa sat unloved and immobile for many months.As it was about to be scrapped when the mot lapsed, I was offered it for a little over scrap value and bought it. Some questions on the internet ( 205gtidrivers.com of all places) suggested replacing the engine ecu temperature sender - by the thermostat housing- a 5 min job with a free part (polo 1.0) from my local yard and it started brilliantly, and has continued to do so for the past year!

Have you tried this yet?

 

[kpanic]

Have you tried this yet?

Problem is its not turning over regardless if its hot or cold, i have also had the sensors checked on map and it shows their fine. However im going to bypass the Charcoal filter sometime this week when the weather is dry (very rare in wales) and see if it works then

 

[Cornishsteve]

That's pretty much the same as the previous owner was told at the VW garage

this was my thread when I asked...


I've been offered a cheap 1.0 arosa for my son to learn in later on (year to go) but it has cold start "issues". I.E it won't start in the cold without a drop of petrol poured into the "carb" (as related to me). Once started initially it runs great, and starts easily from warm.The local VW stealership reckons it's about 300 squiddlies to fix ohmy.gif and this wouldn't be worthwhile. As it sounds like a temp sensor problem, anyone know about such things on VWs? My head says an override switch to the dash may be the order of the day, unless you know different?.
My idea is to run a small engined runabout on my main insurance, with son as named driver, and the gti/cti on classic cover as cover for a teenager is just ridiculous

and the answers that sorted it

It does sound like a temp sensor problem but havent a clue where it is on that engine.

What year is the Arosa? It may be worth finding someone with VagCom in your area and plug it in to find out.


sounds more like the throttle body is gunked up to me... anyway coolant temp sender is either on the right hand side of cylinder head, or on top hose of radiator pipe at front of engine it will normally be blue or black with 4 pins in and a green or black spring clip holding it in. Early one is 28.00 quid and 12 quid for G12 coolant, it is not possible to just use a bypass switch as its a varying resistance. And DONT try to change it when coolant is hot, lol

 

[kpanic]

That's pretty much the same as the previous owner was told at the VW garage

this was my thread when I asked...


I've been offered a cheap 1.0 arosa for my son to learn in later on (year to go) but it has cold start "issues". I.E it won't start in the cold without a drop of petrol poured into the "carb" (as related to me). Once started initially it runs great, and starts easily from warm.The local VW stealership reckons it's about 300 squiddlies to fix ohmy.gif and this wouldn't be worthwhile. As it sounds like a temp sensor problem, anyone know about such things on VWs? My head says an override switch to the dash may be the order of the day, unless you know different?.
My idea is to run a small engined runabout on my main insurance, with son as named driver, and the gti/cti on classic cover as cover for a teenager is just ridiculous

and the answers that sorted it

It does sound like a temp sensor problem but havent a clue where it is on that engine.

What year is the Arosa? It may be worth finding someone with VagCom in your area and plug it in to find out.


sounds more like the throttle body is gunked up to me... anyway coolant temp sender is either on the right hand side of cylinder head, or on top hose of radiator pipe at front of engine it will normally be blue or black with 4 pins in and a green or black spring clip holding it in. Early one is 28.00 quid and 12 quid for G12 coolant, it is not possible to just use a bypass switch as its a varying resistance. And DONT try to change it when coolant is hot, lol

Last night i fixed the problem, i removed the charcoal fuel filter and the valve that connects further up the pipe with sensor.. then i pluged the tube from the carb directly into the fuel line ( the problem is solved!)
Tonight i will be buying a charcoal filter and valve and fingers crossed this should work properly !

Once its done i may post a photo of the car as i will be selling it since i have bought a golf GT

 

[kpanic]

*update*

I have bought the charcoal canister and plugged it all in..
NO LUCK! -
I checked the one way valve on the fuel line by blowing air down both sides and it was seized up ! this has to be the problem !

Does anyone know how the one way valve works on the fuel line ? its connected to a sensor but im not sure how this device works ?

If I plug the fuel line onto the charcoal canister and leave the engine line off the engine and turn the engine I don’t see fuel coming out of the pipe? This is highly confusing!!

 

[kpanic]

*update*

I have found a new one way valve and installed it last night..
No luck!
However the guy who is a VW dealer that I bought the part from said to try the water sensor.
Now how would that work ? I don’t see how the water sensor would play havoc with the starting issue?

ANY HELP ON THIS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

 

[Ben_Dunning]

try resetting the maf sensor all u need to do is disconnect it turn ur ignition on but dont start the engine u will hear a buzzing sound when that stops turn the key back and re connect the sensor i havent had chance to try this yet on mine i will probably do the same with the idle control valve sensor dunno if it will reset tho. If u try it let me know how u get on

 

[Boo]

The MK4 Polo (same engine) has a common problem with the coolant temperature sensor. Reading through the MK4 Polo Haynes manual it explains what this sensor does and it makes sense why it could be the cause of your cold start issues;

"The CTS monitors the coolant temperature. As the coolant temperature increases, the resistance of the sensor decreases, providing a varying output voltage to the ECU. The computer uses information from the CTS to adjust air/fuel mixture, ignition timing, and to switch on the electric cooling fans"

Your looking at around £35 for one of these little beasties. Might be worth a try, also try to find out if someone in your area has access to a VAGcom or phone around garages to see if anyone has any similar diagnostic equiptment.

 

[kpanic]

The MK4 Polo (same engine) has a common problem with the coolant temperature sensor. Reading through the MK4 Polo Haynes manual it explains what this sensor does and it makes sense why it could be the cause of your cold start issues;

"The CTS monitors the coolant temperature. As the coolant temperature increases, the resistance of the sensor decreases, providing a varying output voltage to the ECU. The computer uses information from the CTS to adjust air/fuel mixture, ignition timing, and to switch on the electric cooling fans"

Your looking at around £35 for one of these little beasties. Might be worth a try, also try to find out if someone in your area has access to a VAGcom or phone around garages to see if anyone has any similar diagnostic equiptment.

AT LAST ! thank you for the help! the car starts up after this coolant sensor was replaced! hooray!

the only thing now is that my injector seems to be not working does anyone know how to replace the injectors ? or a guide? i have a spare one