It sits in between the air box and turbo intake pipe.
You could unplug it and see if it helps. Or you could do a little test with VAGCOM, where you hold the revs at 3000 rpm and check the G/S
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seat leon hesitation
- Thread starter mk1cupradave
- Start date
It sits in between the air box and turbo intake pipe.
You could unplug it and see if it helps. Or you could do a little test with VAGCOM, where you hold the revs at 3000 rpm and check the G/S
So the box from the air filter into the main air pipe? In that case I believe I have already disconnected it prior tithe pcv change. It made no difference during acceleration and I reconnected it promptly. It still generated a couple of fault codes which I cleared.
I can always try it again this evening.
Unfortunately don't have vagcom only have vcds lite.
I can always try it again this evening.
Unfortunately don't have vagcom only have vcds lite.
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Im ha ing the exact same problems on my lcr since my remap let me know how u got on so i can try the same cheers 
Vcds lite is the same thing. You should be able to do the check.... It's under engine > measuring blocks. Go up to '003' and the hold the revs at 3000. Your g/s reading should be around 10. If its out by +/- 1, your MAF could be duff.
Note, best to do this check when the car is warmed up.
Note, best to do this check when the car is warmed up.
Well I've done a check. Eventually got the engine running at 3000rpm. Initially the reading was around 10 but I was finding it difficult to hold it steady. Eventually got it sitting bang on 3000rpm and it dropped down to 8.5 and continued to 8. Not conclusive as it did read 10 at times but is it supposed to continue when held?? Engine was all warmed up nice and hot as I did it straight from returning home.
Other thing I had was a fault code yet again. I don't think it's related to this fault as it wasn't there when I had the initial problems with the hoses.
Fault code 18010 - P1602 - Power supply terminal 30. Voltage too low (intermittent)
If it's still thought that it is the MAF what are the part numbers and costs?
Other thing I had was a fault code yet again. I don't think it's related to this fault as it wasn't there when I had the initial problems with the hoses.
Fault code 18010 - P1602 - Power supply terminal 30. Voltage too low (intermittent)
If it's still thought that it is the MAF what are the part numbers and costs?
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Yep. It should it sit at 10 or very close, i.e. no less than 9 and no more than 11.
You could try cleaning the MAF, but if you suspect it's playing up, then it's best to replace it, as they are such a common problem on these cars.
You're looking at between £75-£85 from GSF or Euro Car Parts. I would advise you get a brand new Bosch one. Not a cheapy off eBay.
...as regards to that error code, clear it and see if it comes back. Also google it and see what people have found.
You could try cleaning the MAF, but if you suspect it's playing up, then it's best to replace it, as they are such a common problem on these cars.
You're looking at between £75-£85 from GSF or Euro Car Parts. I would advise you get a brand new Bosch one. Not a cheapy off eBay.
...as regards to that error code, clear it and see if it comes back. Also google it and see what people have found.
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Cheers. It's an expensive part to try though. Luckily ECP have 30% off at the moment so should come in at around £57 ish.
There are two part numbers for the Bosch listed. Both for APP & AUQ engines so not sure what the difference is.
Still not clear as to whether it's the fault or not as when I unplugged it completely it still had the hesitation. Since the PCV change I'm finding it harder at times to make the hesitation appear as sometimes it does accelerate fine.
Are they difficult to clean? I thought they were quite sensitive.
There are two part numbers for the Bosch listed. Both for APP & AUQ engines so not sure what the difference is.
Still not clear as to whether it's the fault or not as when I unplugged it completely it still had the hesitation. Since the PCV change I'm finding it harder at times to make the hesitation appear as sometimes it does accelerate fine.
Are they difficult to clean? I thought they were quite sensitive.
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Well MAF replaced and as expected made no difference. Quite an expensive part but now it's ruled out.
Still accelerating like a rocking chair when under boost.
Still accelerating like a rocking chair when under boost.
Haven't noticed the idle. Don't sit still for that long.
It's mainly between 2.5 to 4k revs. Someone was on about copper strips in an actuator valve. But not sure what the part is. I've also been told electrical cable connections could cause it.
It's mainly between 2.5 to 4k revs. Someone was on about copper strips in an actuator valve. But not sure what the part is. I've also been told electrical cable connections could cause it.
No, not had that done. Who would do it?
I did replace the pcv pipes recently. Is that to detect further holes??
Any good garage will be able to smoke test your car. This is what i had done to mine. It will allow you to detect any vacum leaks that you have as well as showing you where it is coming from. After this has been completed you will either be able to replace pipes or atleast eliminate a boost/vacume leak.
If the smoke test doesnt show anything then i would get the car hooked up to vag come and run a number of tests.
If the smoke test doesnt show anything then i would get the car hooked up to vag come and run a number of tests.
Well Smoke test complete. No leaks but at least proves that I put the car back together ok.
They said possibly turbo, I've had someone else say intercooler, someone else say electrics. No idea now.
I reckon if I inflate all my tyres to 32psi exactly that will fix it
It has to be something bizarre 
They said possibly turbo, I've had someone else say intercooler, someone else say electrics. No idea now.
I reckon if I inflate all my tyres to 32psi exactly that will fix it
It has to be something bizarre Noticed that the car got better during the week. Thought it may have been the ecu resorting itself. However on Friday it went back to how it was before. The only difference was that the ambient temperature increased from below 15 to 22 deg c. So car definately runs better when it's cold. Bring on the winter!!
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