My Cordoba Coupe Trackday Car Project

[F2 Stu]

think about it Stu... Rob's having you on

if you rotate the fans, so the top is now the bottom, the blades will still be facing the same direction etc

the only way that you'll change the direction of the blades is to turn them round, so the 'front' becomes the back

Damn I can be subtle, yet sarcy at the same time

 

[andyj]

Wasn't sure if you were being sarcy or not !!!!

Coming along nicely though......

Really makes me want to get another 16v Cordy as a project.... think it'll have to wait until after the wedding though

 

[Feel]

Then again, you'll need a white car for the wedding

 

[andyj]

Now there's a thought..... a White 16v Cordy with full WRC kit......

 

[alex_shepz]

Cheerz buddy, il have 2 keep my eyes peeled 4 a set of them. Know anywhere 2 start lookin? Do you reckon those calipers will fit behind standard gti alloys?

 

[F2 Stu]

Do you reckon those calipers will fit behind standard gti alloys?

not without 15-20mm spacer they wont

 

[alex_shepz]

okie dokes, is it best 2 get compmotive alloys like yours?

 

[F2 Stu]

yeah, theres fag paper clearence with those without the need for spacers

 

[F2 Stu]

but if you turn them 180 degree's the wiring will be at the bottom,less chance of water running down the cable into the motor.GOD i am bored tonight

You can go and crap in sombody elses thread then

 

[F2 Stu]

All back together again

During the week I sussed the wiring with an aid of a m0rk, I had chopped out a balance resistor on the oem set up and had not joined the wires.

After a drive its clearly working more effeciently, temp guage normally sits 1/2 on the guage constantly on the old radiator, new rad when it has a constant airflow to it sits at a 3rd - the faster you go the more it drops
Oil temp is lower also, not managed to get to go above 84 degrees and this is still using the stock oilcooler.

Then the bonnet catch decide to lock and refuse to release
maneged to undo the bolts that hole the mech to the slam panel and cut the cable. fortunetly I had some Grayston bonnet pisn that I had planned to fit another day.

 

[ibizacupra]

whens it ready for finish mapping then Stu?

 

[F2 Stu]

When the airbox is made, the plug for the back halve of the box is ready for laying up and need to make the front portion.

Got some bracing to make for front panel before I loose the centre part of the slam panel

I am doing a trackday at Donington park 1st july and wouldent dare doing so in its current state, real mountain to climb as its to spend time back at RPM addressing other bits & bobs and finding a slot to do so.

Time evaporating and a kitchen to do also its going to be a few late nights, not helped by a radiator that was 5 weeks overdue

Bet this sounds all too familiar

 

[ibizacupra]

deja vous

comes with the territory i think

 

[F2 Stu]

Indeed it does........

Oh well least I've got this golf to trundle around in the meantime

 

[ArosaRacer]

yeah and you drive it like you stole it! like we said at Tris's rebuilding rather than go anything more agressive is the best way, after you saying a rebuild every 5k thats just mental

 

[F2 Stu]

Time of a long overdue update

Not had much to report on until now as the motor suffered an unwanted movement in the cam timing resulted its premature demise when it dropped a valve back in the end of May. Bugger.

A replacement ABF was sourced and built to the same spec as before with the addition of Supertech one piece Stainless valves, valve springs and titanium retaining caps and a few more bits I cant remember

The stock oilcooler/heat exchanger has been ditched and using a 25 oil cooler mounted to the front of the rad, but underestimated the cooling efficiency of the rad and cooler as getting temperature into it from cold takes ages and I ended up blanking off the additional cooling holes made in the bumper just to keep temperature at normal levels. Also swapped the the mocal sandwich take-off plate to one with an thermostat built in and will be swapping the 25 row cooler to a 13 row item.

I abandoned the idea of fabricating the airbox out of fibreglass as that was too messy and time consuming when I tried it out or myself. Being metal fabricator by trade, the ovbious solution would be to makes it out of sheet metal welded together

Made a cardboud template first to guage clearences before cutting any metal, At least watching Blue Peter wasn't wasted lol

Working with 0.6mm mild steel, the base as it were has to joggle over coolant and oil cooler pipes

I braced and cut the middle out of the slam panel to make way for the box.
I had originally planned to use pond filter foam as a means of filtration but a panel filter that RobT had made by ITG for the Pickle was so perfect for the box it seemed a no brainer not to use it

Pushing the envelope as to what I can get away without seriously altering the bonnet but allowing for movement at the same time, I had the inlet face of the head machined in a way that the bodies and trumpets point more in the direction of horizontle by about 14 degrees from the original datum.

Need to think up of some method of tilting down the trumpets.....

Thats one side to the box made, got a temporey steel 'lid' made up to assist making up the otherside and to be eplaced with an ally one.

More tommorow.

 

[Feel]

Looks good Stu. Is the length of the trumpets important, and I take they're ally? Looks like you could do with 45' bends to point them more downwards towards the channel at the front of the box?

Some parallel 45' dairy bends with flanges on either end, bolt one end to the base/TB and the other end to the trumpet, maybe?

Looks like it would save you altering the bonnet, too.

 

[F2 Stu]

The longer the trumpet the better (yes they are ally) Someone told me the optimum trumpet length was around 12" long which isnt practical lol

Somthing around 45' would work but it would be a tight radius bend - bit stumped as to where to find them as the nearest I can find is 42mm id...

Off back to the work shop now

 

[myseatcupra]

looks good that.

 

[ibizacupra]

Jenvey have angled plain bodies which could be used to down angle the backplate to airhorns. I used some of these to angle and space out the induction length.