thing is it does'nt have to be thick to be strong. My PD mani proves this. It does need to be made in a quality manner, with good materials and mounted such that expansion/contraction is not going to stress things further. My PD manifold is ~1.2mm wt only. It has supported 2 race seasons on >2bar boost, latterly with >500bhp. It ran no external supports as I found this stressed the manifold more, not less.
That said my new rhd mani, same as the full-race I have on there right now, is thick wall and blindingly heavy
which is bad for racecar. (Sch40 pipe fittings on full-race and my new one hence cheaper)
Mine was not ceramic coated so was the same as Hooch's in that respect. My new ones are for engine bay temp control as much as anything.
Those cracks look mighty awkward to fix. Cracking adjacent to welds is typical failure mode but so soon?
the temp of those runners on the dyno looks well hot for just a power run.
Camera I know, but jeez.. its working hard alright.
My PD one would glow to very bright red/yellow at the collector during power runs on full load.. The runners were a bright cherry red. One reason I have moved onto another manifold to try (T3) was to allow for a bigger collector, with a more narrow merge angle which hopefully will not turn yellow as it focus's the heat into the one zone. (remember my previous turbo was 52mm round inlet on the FP)
I'm not sure what RS will be able to do for those cracks with respect to repair.
Good luck hooch
Say hi to Pat for me