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Grahams81-Leon 4wd, Big Turbo - Back in the saddle :-)
- Thread starter grahams81
- Start date
Well i've been busy today continuing assembling the bottom end of the engine.
Got the ABA trigger wheel on the crank (bolts right upto the TDI crank, just have to remove the pin), i used some loctite the screws to stop any issues with the screws coming out.
Got the crank in and all tightened up on the ARP Main Bolts - torqued the studs to 60lbs/ft
Used plenty of the Redline Assembly Lube on all the shells to hopefully help with the intial start-up to stop any picking up on the bearings.
I then cleaned up all the rods prior to fitting, here's a piccy showing the marks where they have been ground when Quasar Engineering balanced them end for end. -
I even got all the piston rings gapped, top rings were gapped to 16thou or 0.40mm in new money, 2nd rings were set to 18thou and the lower oil rings were set about 18-20thou.
I bought a set of fine needle files to set the ring end gaps but the top rings are as hard as a whoares heart so i mounted my dremmel in the vice with a cutting disc in and lightly ground the end of the ring on the flat part of the wheel.
So feeling rather pleased with myself i decided to put a piston in before i called it a night -
Turned the crank and it stopped before reaching BDC - the piston is hitting the oil squirter
I am really sick of running into problems on this build now, gonna have to remove the pistons and have the oil jet relief milled to give about 2mm of clearance....
..another delay but the worst part is i have had all the pistons balanced already so they are gonna need redoing again after the machining work
Oh well on the up side i got my plasma cutter today so might go and take my frustration out on the s3 shell and chop the sh*t outta it.
Got the ABA trigger wheel on the crank (bolts right upto the TDI crank, just have to remove the pin), i used some loctite the screws to stop any issues with the screws coming out.
Got the crank in and all tightened up on the ARP Main Bolts - torqued the studs to 60lbs/ft
Used plenty of the Redline Assembly Lube on all the shells to hopefully help with the intial start-up to stop any picking up on the bearings.
I then cleaned up all the rods prior to fitting, here's a piccy showing the marks where they have been ground when Quasar Engineering balanced them end for end. -
I even got all the piston rings gapped, top rings were gapped to 16thou or 0.40mm in new money, 2nd rings were set to 18thou and the lower oil rings were set about 18-20thou.
I bought a set of fine needle files to set the ring end gaps but the top rings are as hard as a whoares heart so i mounted my dremmel in the vice with a cutting disc in and lightly ground the end of the ring on the flat part of the wheel.
So feeling rather pleased with myself i decided to put a piston in before i called it a night -
Turned the crank and it stopped before reaching BDC - the piston is hitting the oil squirter
I am really sick of running into problems on this build now, gonna have to remove the pistons and have the oil jet relief milled to give about 2mm of clearance....
..another delay but the worst part is i have had all the pistons balanced already so they are gonna need redoing again after the machining work
Oh well on the up side i got my plasma cutter today so might go and take my frustration out on the s3 shell and chop the sh*t outta it.
Well today i stripped the block back down
I had a search on the internet and found plenty of people who had the same oil jet clearance problem with the 2067cc conversion, so i found a couple of pictures of pistons that had been modified to clear the oil jets, that gave me inspiration to get mine sorted.
I decided to do them myself so i worked out where i needed the clearance and ground them using a dremmel and a small grinding bit.
Here's a pic of one i modified next to a standard JE piston -
I then decided to go and buy some new accurate scales to balance the pistons - walked into tesco's and started asking the staff about really accurate scales for within half a gram (i was dressed scruffy in dirty clothes from working in the garage) and im pretty sure they thought i wanted it for drug dealing !!!!!
Anyhow i got some pretty good ones they are accurate to 1 gram.
I don't think i did a bad job of grinding on the pistons as they were all within 1 gram of each other. A bit of extra grinding and they were all spot on, added little bits of paper to see how far they were away from the next gram and then made some further adjustments. Makes it a bit more accurate.
Whilst i had the crank out i checked big end bearing clearances, all ok approx 2.5 thou.
The Main bearing clearances are 2 thou.
I also decided to put a chamfer on the lower edge of the cylinder bore, i noticed the other day when i installed the piston that the skirt of the piston comes out of the cylinder bore by about 6mm. I thought that maybe the sharp edge of the bore might wear / bite into the skirt of the piston.
Also the rest of my parts arrived this morning so gonna reassemble the bottom end and then try and get the cylinder head finished.
So long for now,
Graham.
I had a search on the internet and found plenty of people who had the same oil jet clearance problem with the 2067cc conversion, so i found a couple of pictures of pistons that had been modified to clear the oil jets, that gave me inspiration to get mine sorted.
I decided to do them myself so i worked out where i needed the clearance and ground them using a dremmel and a small grinding bit.
Here's a pic of one i modified next to a standard JE piston -
I then decided to go and buy some new accurate scales to balance the pistons - walked into tesco's and started asking the staff about really accurate scales for within half a gram (i was dressed scruffy in dirty clothes from working in the garage) and im pretty sure they thought i wanted it for drug dealing !!!!!
Anyhow i got some pretty good ones they are accurate to 1 gram.
I don't think i did a bad job of grinding on the pistons as they were all within 1 gram of each other. A bit of extra grinding and they were all spot on, added little bits of paper to see how far they were away from the next gram and then made some further adjustments. Makes it a bit more accurate.
Whilst i had the crank out i checked big end bearing clearances, all ok approx 2.5 thou.
The Main bearing clearances are 2 thou.
I also decided to put a chamfer on the lower edge of the cylinder bore, i noticed the other day when i installed the piston that the skirt of the piston comes out of the cylinder bore by about 6mm. I thought that maybe the sharp edge of the bore might wear / bite into the skirt of the piston.
Also the rest of my parts arrived this morning so gonna reassemble the bottom end and then try and get the cylinder head finished.
So long for now,
Graham.
Quite pleased with todays progress.
Cleaned everything up and reinstalled crankshaft with the Redline lube.
Here's a shot of one of the pistons n rod.
Next up was to install the piston rings and use a piston ring compressor to get them into the block.
Here's a shot of them all in. I torqued the ARP conrod bolts up (50lbs/ft) and cracked them off 3 times each as per the instructions.
Also installed the ARP Head studs, just screwed them down by hand until they bottomed out.
Put the new OEM metal water pump in -
Unpacked the new Oil pump and found that the pickup tube isn't included
Still put the new windage tray in, oil pump, new oil pump chain & tensioner on.
I need to order some more parts before long, still need a baffled sump, oil pump suction pipe, thermostat etc
Just got to put the inlet valves into the head then i can get it bolted onto the block.
Cleaned everything up and reinstalled crankshaft with the Redline lube.
Here's a shot of one of the pistons n rod.
Next up was to install the piston rings and use a piston ring compressor to get them into the block.
Here's a shot of them all in. I torqued the ARP conrod bolts up (50lbs/ft) and cracked them off 3 times each as per the instructions.
Also installed the ARP Head studs, just screwed them down by hand until they bottomed out.
Put the new OEM metal water pump in -
Unpacked the new Oil pump and found that the pickup tube isn't included
Still put the new windage tray in, oil pump, new oil pump chain & tensioner on.
I need to order some more parts before long, still need a baffled sump, oil pump suction pipe, thermostat etc
Just got to put the inlet valves into the head then i can get it bolted onto the block.
Cheers for the comments lads, really getting into the project now....feel like im moving forward which is nice.
I've just ordered some more goodies from Integrated Engineering for the build.
I wanted to junk the standard breather / secondary air system so i've ordered a catch tank, billet lower adaptor and an adaptor for the Cam cover and a SAI pump resistor -
Also ordered a Billet backplate supporter for the IE mechanical timing belt tensioner -
I've also just ordered loads of odds & sodds from Tristan at Seat Bristol Seat, i've gone for some new cambelt covers to freshen the look of the engine up.
Suction Pipe for Oil Pump
Silicone for the Sump
Complete Oil Filter Housing Bracket
Thermostat & Plastic Pipe & O-Ring
New Upper & Lower Cambelt covers
Various o-rings & fittings
Need to get some braided hoses for the new breather system, and i'm not sure wether to buy some forge silicon coolant hoses - £150 seems quite pricey for 7 hoses....hhmm
Just need to order a baffled sump to get the engine sealed up.
So long for now.
I wanted to junk the standard breather / secondary air system so i've ordered a catch tank, billet lower adaptor and an adaptor for the Cam cover and a SAI pump resistor -
Also ordered a Billet backplate supporter for the IE mechanical timing belt tensioner -
I've also just ordered loads of odds & sodds from Tristan at Seat Bristol Seat, i've gone for some new cambelt covers to freshen the look of the engine up.
Suction Pipe for Oil Pump
Silicone for the Sump
Complete Oil Filter Housing Bracket
Thermostat & Plastic Pipe & O-Ring
New Upper & Lower Cambelt covers
Various o-rings & fittings
Need to get some braided hoses for the new breather system, and i'm not sure wether to buy some forge silicon coolant hoses - £150 seems quite pricey for 7 hoses....hhmm
Just need to order a baffled sump to get the engine sealed up.
So long for now.
oldskool
Guest
Thanks again for the comments lads, don't really have any news on the build cos ive just got back from a week in Magaluf on a mates stag do...... Not sure if i dare dissappear into the garage, the wife may have a hissy fit
Got back from working away this morning and found my parts had arrived from Seat and my catch can and bits from Integrated engineering, got cracking in the garage shortly after that.
Finally got the block all covered up today, fitted the new thermostat and new housing, also fitted the water pipe with a fresh o-ring and bolted it to the block, new crank trigger sensor. Also fitted a new shiney Oil filter housing with a new gasket, and fitted the IE breather adaptor.
After fitting the Oil pump suction pipe I decided to fit the crankshaft oil seal housings to the end, i used the proper VW silicone didn't use too much just incase it squeezed out into the oil system.
Trial fitted the sump first before i put the silicone on, and found it was fouling on the ARP main studs, so i had to file the sump to make clearance for the nuts, the marks can be seen in the photo (right on the lumpy bits) -
I bolted the sump up next with the silicone on - used a bead of about 1.5mm.
So now the bottom end is all sealed up and ready for the head to be dropped on.
Plan for Saturday is to get the cylinder head built up and get it bolted down.
I've also ordered a T3 divided inlet merge collector in SCH 10 to get started on the manifold.
I'm thinking of getting a GTX3076R and running a 0.73 divided turbine housing for good spool up, im hoping that with the extra 2.1 capacity and the twin scroll set-up it should be a fairly nice torquey but good hp motor. The only thing i'm a bit concerned of is the dual wastegates required - might be a tight squeeze especially with the 4wd transfer box eating up room.
I'll update again tomoro when i've done somemore graft !!!
Finally got the block all covered up today, fitted the new thermostat and new housing, also fitted the water pipe with a fresh o-ring and bolted it to the block, new crank trigger sensor. Also fitted a new shiney Oil filter housing with a new gasket, and fitted the IE breather adaptor.
After fitting the Oil pump suction pipe I decided to fit the crankshaft oil seal housings to the end, i used the proper VW silicone didn't use too much just incase it squeezed out into the oil system.
Trial fitted the sump first before i put the silicone on, and found it was fouling on the ARP main studs, so i had to file the sump to make clearance for the nuts, the marks can be seen in the photo (right on the lumpy bits) -
I bolted the sump up next with the silicone on - used a bead of about 1.5mm.
So now the bottom end is all sealed up and ready for the head to be dropped on.
Plan for Saturday is to get the cylinder head built up and get it bolted down.
I've also ordered a T3 divided inlet merge collector in SCH 10 to get started on the manifold.
I'm thinking of getting a GTX3076R and running a 0.73 divided turbine housing for good spool up, im hoping that with the extra 2.1 capacity and the twin scroll set-up it should be a fairly nice torquey but good hp motor. The only thing i'm a bit concerned of is the dual wastegates required - might be a tight squeeze especially with the 4wd transfer box eating up room.
I'll update again tomoro when i've done somemore graft !!!
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maddest thread ive read for a while. could to see someone not scared to have a crack themselves.
Cheers for the comments lads, got a bit more done on the engine build today.
After some waiting around for a mate to get a lend of a spring compressor i managed to get the inlet valves in, with the super tech springs and the titanium retainers.
Here's a shot of them all in -
The white stuff is just grease i used to stick the oem collets to the screwdriver / valve stem.
Here's a pic of the head with all the valves in -
Last chance to see the shiney pistons before dropping the head on -
Put the IE manual Cambelt tensioner on, with the IE pinned crank pulley and ARP Main Crankshaft Bolt, again shame you cant see it once the cambelt covers on -
Such a shame to cover all these goodies up........
I set the crank in a position with all pistons half way down/up the bores so there's no valve / piston contact when i install the cams and time it up.
Any how dropped the head on and put some odds and sods on, knock sensors bolted on.
Pics of the head on -
So got to make some decisions now about Camshafts - thinking the new Integrated Engineering Street cams. there really strong between 4000rpm-8000rpm so i think they will nicely match the turbo im looking for.
Anyway so long for now.. more tomoro.
After some waiting around for a mate to get a lend of a spring compressor i managed to get the inlet valves in, with the super tech springs and the titanium retainers.
Here's a shot of them all in -
The white stuff is just grease i used to stick the oem collets to the screwdriver / valve stem.
Here's a pic of the head with all the valves in -
Last chance to see the shiney pistons before dropping the head on -
Put the IE manual Cambelt tensioner on, with the IE pinned crank pulley and ARP Main Crankshaft Bolt, again shame you cant see it once the cambelt covers on -
Such a shame to cover all these goodies up........
I set the crank in a position with all pistons half way down/up the bores so there's no valve / piston contact when i install the cams and time it up.
Any how dropped the head on and put some odds and sods on, knock sensors bolted on.
Pics of the head on -
So got to make some decisions now about Camshafts - thinking the new Integrated Engineering Street cams. there really strong between 4000rpm-8000rpm so i think they will nicely match the turbo im looking for.
Anyway so long for now.. more tomoro.
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