Gave In.. N249 Bypass Done...My View

[lexyy]

i tried to tidy mine further today, not sure itll work long term but on a quick test run it worked fine. excuse the messy bay that will be sorted soon enough! Also apologise for my lack of mechanical knowledge lol im a pipefitter not a mechanic!!


i originally had a hose running from the right hand nipple on one of the valves (can't remember if it was right or left, can someone help with what one it was incase i need to return it to its previous state??) to a round silver thing under the boost pipe (is it the n75??) then from there to the black/white regulator (if thats what it is haha)

i removed this and ran a hose straight from the silver thing to the black and white thing

i then ran a hose from the black/white thing to this y piece, one branch to inlet mani and one to DV

here is the T at my DV (other hose running to boost gauge)

and finally a shot of the hose running from black/white to the silver thing (just out of view) this is how its currently set up and running ok, but it means that the 2 originally n249 related things are completely disconnected to any vac lines and are only plugged in electronically. My question is, will this cause any problems long term???

When i set it up earlier i just assumed it would be the same as resitoring the valves but leaving the valves in place and plugged in electronically. Sorry if this makes no sense!!

 

[OrcaGti]

in picture one, im pretty sure your ment to have the left one plummed in still?? could be wrong, i followed this guide, was pretty simple fella:

http://www.vagowners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?303-Ibiza-MK3-N249-Bypass

 

[lexyy]

Thats the way o originally had it mate but assumed that this way it would essentially be the sane as removing them completely and resistoring, had the car out a run the other night and it felt far far better, peak boost was back up to a shade under 20 psi and where there used to be a pause in vacuum building it is now instant, for example before i changed it id lift off and it would drop to 10 at vacuum, hold there for a second then drop to 23ish where as now it drops straight to 23, the car also drives far smoother and feels quicker aswell!! No eml as of yet but will scan it when i can and see what flags up, really need my laptop sorted so i can sort vagcom for logs!!

 

[EddyCupra]

Ordered my 3m pipe tuesday night off ebay for just under £5...Was here today when i came back from work, took me 5 mins to do Easiest mod to do ever! Noticied much chrisper dv and seamed to work as soon as i backed off/changed gear!

 

[OrcaGti]

Thats the way o originally had it mate but assumed that this way it would essentially be the sane as removing them completely and resistoring, had the car out a run the other night and it felt far far better, peak boost was back up to a shade under 20 psi and where there used to be a pause in vacuum building it is now instant, for example before i changed it id lift off and it would drop to 10 at vacuum, hold there for a second then drop to 23ish where as now it drops straight to 23, the car also drives far smoother and feels quicker aswell!! No eml as of yet but will scan it when i can and see what flags up, really need my laptop sorted so i can sort vagcom for logs!!

ahh ok cool, let me know how it turns out when you get vag on it

 

[mc funbot]

i need to make a proper guide for this.. you only need 2 bit of vac line EVERYTHING else can be removed..

 

[TomTomTom]

cracking birds eye view - yep i see what youve done - you just relocated it - im going to take it off completey as its not needed - yep, you need to keep the N112(the other one) - controls combi valve for secondary air pump on cold starts -

Hi everyone, yesterday i was looking down the mk3 ibiza cupra's engine bay that i bought a few months back to dicover what i beleive as quoted here the n1112 still plugged in but just hanging down the back of the engine partially melted on the side and with melted nosels,
i also found the vac tube from the intake manifold that also goes to the recirc dump valve wasnt plugged in to one of those boxes, also i found a blue vac pipe part melted with one end attatched to something below the big bosst pipes/intake pipes, and discovered that amongst a bunch of bits and peices from that car i found a bunch of little pipes, one of those boxes but the mount pount too small and direction of nosels means they get in the way and also a little black and white filter thing i guess.

Photos here
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=353604

 

[maf]

hey havnt long bough tmy ibiza cupra there has been something bypassed on it and im not sure if it is this,, the car doesnt run right either it looses power and and kicks back in dont know what it is ??

 

[Kylecupra]

Hey,

I have replaced the engine in my car and i cannot rememer how the bypasses were set up.

My loom has resistors solderd in.

My question is:

With the pipe from my inlet manifold, do i just run a pipe straight to the 007P dumpvalve and not even bother With the Y piece (that would go to the Valve) if there are no valves that can be plugged in?

 

[mc funbot]

i just sat and done this to help all of you out.. this is the simplest way i can think of!

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=363338

 

[mc funbot]

if you wona know more just inbox me ive done about 40 of these byoasses now..

this is myn

 

[neron4o]

Thanks to this thread done mine in seconds. My hoses was already changed,and it was good we make it a litte longer,so now just use the peaces to make the puzzle
Very useful!!!

 

[Protec]

I also tried bypassing my N249 in my 1.8T ibiza FR. Did it, and did not like it. Made me lose low rpm torque. Also after reading some VW factory manuals, it seems that the N249 has something to do with low-end torque. After few weeks i switched it back to normal and was AMAZED by the huge low rpm torque again. Also the bypass increased my fuel consumption. This is a quote from VW:
"A Turbocharger Recirculating Valve N249 keeps a portion of air running through the intake side of
the turbocharger when the throttle valve is closed and boost pressure is still present.
This keeps the turbocharger impeller from slowing down, reducing turbo lag when the throttle is applied again." Anyway, i did not like it. I have stage 1 remap.

 

[azza1571]

Right everyone, seen so many different ways of doing this now and searched the forum for the info that I want and can't find anything the vac hose that goes on to the actuator for the turbo (Closest to the actuator bar) where is that suppose to go to? Is it suppose to connect to a tee, one to the SAI and then the other to the N112 valve?

 

[dirtyD123]

This is how my S112 valve is set up to bypass the N249 excuse the bad drawing

So the square is the S112 the connection on the front has nothing on it it's just open to atmosphere, the vac pipe from the rear T's into the recirc/dumpvalve and inlet manifold, and the vac pipe from the side back T's into the turbo actuator and SAI (secondary air injection)

My N249 has no vac pipes connected at all but is still plugged into the loom to avoid engine management light on dash,


Sorry about the fag packet style drawing but It was just a quick squiggle while I was trying to fuigure out what's going on my self,

 

[traffmeister]

LOL @ FlashBSD aka Banned

What Is FlashBSD?

 

[Molehill_Mike]

Yowza is this still going!? My most succesful thread ever.

FlashBSD is an ex-member. From 2005 kinda time. He rubbed a mod up the wrong way so his name was changed to Banned IIRC LOL

 

[traffmeister]

Oh Right lol

 

[aditza]

hello to all could somebody draw me a scheme of how to bypass the secondary air and n249 valve y dont understand how to do it from the pitures i need to see the entire sistem please i have a big dilema my car is a ibiza ayp cheers to all and thank you

 

[aditza]

could somebody help me pleasee