cuprachrissy
Guest
Can someone make this in2 a sticky (a bit more condensed!!) i've read so many reviews on this n249/112
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Just done the bypass of the n249 and the dv sounds a nice different and louder slightly. Still holds the boost and there is no engine light on so i'm going with all good just got to do the electrics and reposition every thing.
Dose any one now where i can get a dv cleaning kit from had a look on forge but could't find there kit can any one give me the link??
Dose any one now where i can get a dv cleaning kit from had a look on forge but could't find there kit can any one give me the link??
ian_cupra
Guest
good stuff got one on the way to me now! would be good to see if it changes the sound with a good service as it looks in need of a good clean now summers is on route!
dson
Guest
clinch
Guest
Hi new to ibiza's jut bought a cupra and it has all this removed i am going to presume this is all related to the listed mod ? N249, N112's, SAI, EVAP and Aircon. I currently have the turbo smart dual port DV and have ajusted it slightly to make it louder. I may sound stupid but if i adjust this would it make the turbo boost more ? As i have now noticed that the car is now peaking at 25PSI !!! hitting a flat spot at approx 4k then dropping off to 10psi i know this isn't good would i be right in saying this is spiking ? need some help ASAP
Just read all 15 pages and with all the different ways and off topic chat its hard to work out what way is right also most of the pics dont show any more.
Could any1 start a new thread with just 1 post with a guide on what to do and change with pics?
I think i worked it out but i know that would be a great help to people as they wouldnt have to read through 15pages.
Could any1 start a new thread with just 1 post with a guide on what to do and change with pics?
I think i worked it out but i know that would be a great help to people as they wouldnt have to read through 15pages.
Did this today and its put my engine management light on?? i disconected 1 of the eletrical plugs, would this of caused it?
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Have just read the whole of this thread and agree with what the guy said earlier....why can't there just be a step-by-step so we actually know what to do?? If you read this from a perspective where you don't even know what the n249 valve is...none of it comes together. All it needs is one picture with instructions on which bit to do and then which bit next....
got a mot advisory that my vacuum hoses have started to perish...so just got my hands on some 3mm hosing and thought I may aswel tackle this whilst Im there. Be the first 'mod' ive done to the car in absolute ages.
ps- think I know what Im doing, looks simple enough from the pics...
ps- think I know what Im doing, looks simple enough from the pics...
Found this
hey guys i keep getting asked about*this so i though i would post an how to, as with all how too's be carful, if you done think you can do it dont, i take no resposibility if you **** up lol
this mod takes out the n249 valve, this valve is under constant vacuum and at any time can open the dv, it can cure surging and rough throttle
*
Right ho
*
this is the* most simple route, basically were just capping off the hard line that the DV connects to, and running a new vacuum line from the DV to the vacuum on the FPR and just insert a T-fitting on that line. You can clip or zip tie all ends of the vacuum lines and were done.*
*
1) Cut factory clamp off FPR rubber line
2) Plug a "T" into the line you pulled off FPR and put a new piece of hose from the T back into the FPR
3) Now your FPR is plugged in and you still have 1 portion of the "T" not used.
4) Use that no used leg of the "T" fitting for your DV
*
Pics
*
Remove the engine cover
*
*
To reveal this
*
*
Theses are the bits were interested in
*
*
1 = the dump valve
2 = the fuel pressure regulator
3 = the n249 valve
*
The arrows
Blue is the hose going from the dv to the n249
Yellow is n249 going to the dv
Green is the n249
Red is the hose off the fuel pressure regulator
*
How to:
*
Remove the line going to the top of the dv, numbered 1; cap this with a bolt,
*
next you can either cut and tee into the fpr line (the tube that comes out of the fpr, the fpr is the silver canister looking thing above your intake manifold, this is numbered 2. the line is a black braided hose. personally I cut the hose clamp off and installed about 3" of new tubing from the fpr, so I didn’t have to cut the stock tubing (just in case I want to make things look stock). from the fpr whether you cut the existing line or installed a new one, install your 't' fitting. Now you have a line from the fpr, to a tee going back into the fpr line and a spare, this spare goes to the top of the dv, numbered 1 and that’s it your done
*
*
*
Make sure you ty-rap all connections. You’re done. without a boost gauge, this install requires a 3-way t. if you want your boost gauge hooked up as well, you can get a 4-way t... however I haven’t seen any 4-way tee's with 3x3/16" ports and 1x1/4" port... so you'll need to get the 1/4" changeover and a small piece of tubing to make the 4-way work.
hey guys i keep getting asked about*this so i though i would post an how to, as with all how too's be carful, if you done think you can do it dont, i take no resposibility if you **** up lol
this mod takes out the n249 valve, this valve is under constant vacuum and at any time can open the dv, it can cure surging and rough throttle
*
Right ho
*
this is the* most simple route, basically were just capping off the hard line that the DV connects to, and running a new vacuum line from the DV to the vacuum on the FPR and just insert a T-fitting on that line. You can clip or zip tie all ends of the vacuum lines and were done.*
*
1) Cut factory clamp off FPR rubber line
2) Plug a "T" into the line you pulled off FPR and put a new piece of hose from the T back into the FPR
3) Now your FPR is plugged in and you still have 1 portion of the "T" not used.
4) Use that no used leg of the "T" fitting for your DV
*
Pics
*
Remove the engine cover
*
*
To reveal this
*
*
Theses are the bits were interested in
*
*
1 = the dump valve
2 = the fuel pressure regulator
3 = the n249 valve
*
The arrows
Blue is the hose going from the dv to the n249
Yellow is n249 going to the dv
Green is the n249
Red is the hose off the fuel pressure regulator
*
How to:
*
Remove the line going to the top of the dv, numbered 1; cap this with a bolt,
*
next you can either cut and tee into the fpr line (the tube that comes out of the fpr, the fpr is the silver canister looking thing above your intake manifold, this is numbered 2. the line is a black braided hose. personally I cut the hose clamp off and installed about 3" of new tubing from the fpr, so I didn’t have to cut the stock tubing (just in case I want to make things look stock). from the fpr whether you cut the existing line or installed a new one, install your 't' fitting. Now you have a line from the fpr, to a tee going back into the fpr line and a spare, this spare goes to the top of the dv, numbered 1 and that’s it your done
*
*
*
Make sure you ty-rap all connections. You’re done. without a boost gauge, this install requires a 3-way t. if you want your boost gauge hooked up as well, you can get a 4-way t... however I haven’t seen any 4-way tee's with 3x3/16" ports and 1x1/4" port... so you'll need to get the 1/4" changeover and a small piece of tubing to make the 4-way work.
Used my phone so there ain't no pics sry but here's the web page http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/t/213950.aspx
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