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Right here goes(pictures to follow)
Total time for fix is about 30 minutes and tools needed are: Philips screwdriver, 20, 25 and 30 torx (cant remember if i needed them all), New boot release Solenoid (i will update with part number and was £15 from Seat)
1. Remove parcel shelf and trim on drivers side of the boot (3 screws 1 of which is next to the back seat catch so pull the rear seat forward). If you remove the cover for access to the light cluster and look towards the 1/4 panel (before removing the complete panel) you will see the solenoid (white about 5cm by 4cm).
2. With panel removed (well not completely removed as the seat belt goes through it but no need to take this off , just move the panel out of the way) you will clearly see the solenoid that you want to replace. This is attached by two philips screws that you cannot see the head of, because the way the solenoid is attached is that (difficult to explain this one) the head of the screw on the solenoid will fit through a hole and is then slid towards the rear of the car to lock it in place. So to remove you need to push it towards the front of the car to release it. Also remove the electric connector by pushing the two little plastic pins at the top of it (same as most of the connectors on these)
3. Now i removed the fuel cap to replace mine but looking back i dont think this is required, but easier to feed the rod on the solenoid through. There is one star piece inside the fuel flap (oh yea if the flap is stuck closed then with your finger pull the flap out a little bit and carefully use a flat head screw driver to push the lock mechanism which will release the flap) and after this is removed the rubber filler neck and flap can be easily be removed as one piece (pull towards you at catch end and the hinge will then come out).
4. Now the solenoid should have 2 new philips screws on it already which you might have to tighten up a little (have a look at the one just removed and leave the same gap) and after feeding the rod through to the flap area (there is a little tube that it feeds through and is a little fiddly to do and might be worth putting a little bit of WD40 in the tube to help it move easily) the solenoid is fixed into place by lining the holes up on the mounting bracket and sliding towards the rear of the car to lock in place
5. Reconnect the electrical connector and test that the release is working and then refit all parts removed.
Hope this helps
Total time for fix is about 30 minutes and tools needed are: Philips screwdriver, 20, 25 and 30 torx (cant remember if i needed them all), New boot release Solenoid (i will update with part number and was £15 from Seat)
1. Remove parcel shelf and trim on drivers side of the boot (3 screws 1 of which is next to the back seat catch so pull the rear seat forward). If you remove the cover for access to the light cluster and look towards the 1/4 panel (before removing the complete panel) you will see the solenoid (white about 5cm by 4cm).
2. With panel removed (well not completely removed as the seat belt goes through it but no need to take this off , just move the panel out of the way) you will clearly see the solenoid that you want to replace. This is attached by two philips screws that you cannot see the head of, because the way the solenoid is attached is that (difficult to explain this one) the head of the screw on the solenoid will fit through a hole and is then slid towards the rear of the car to lock it in place. So to remove you need to push it towards the front of the car to release it. Also remove the electric connector by pushing the two little plastic pins at the top of it (same as most of the connectors on these)
3. Now i removed the fuel cap to replace mine but looking back i dont think this is required, but easier to feed the rod on the solenoid through. There is one star piece inside the fuel flap (oh yea if the flap is stuck closed then with your finger pull the flap out a little bit and carefully use a flat head screw driver to push the lock mechanism which will release the flap) and after this is removed the rubber filler neck and flap can be easily be removed as one piece (pull towards you at catch end and the hinge will then come out).
4. Now the solenoid should have 2 new philips screws on it already which you might have to tighten up a little (have a look at the one just removed and leave the same gap) and after feeding the rod through to the flap area (there is a little tube that it feeds through and is a little fiddly to do and might be worth putting a little bit of WD40 in the tube to help it move easily) the solenoid is fixed into place by lining the holes up on the mounting bracket and sliding towards the rear of the car to lock in place
5. Reconnect the electrical connector and test that the release is working and then refit all parts removed.
Hope this helps
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Just fitted my solenoid did it a slightly different way as below.
I had a new fuel flap to fit off a Toledo, and was the same colour (ace find!) so removed the flap to make it easier.
- Remove the trim covering the rear boot lock
- Remove the trim to the right as you look in the boot, the one with the flap to replace the bulbs.
- Then the "carpet" can be simply moved of out the way
- Then you will see the solenoid as per the picture
- The two "ends" of the screws are shaped so you can undo them to release the old solenoid
I had a new fuel flap to fit off a Toledo, and was the same colour (ace find!) so removed the flap to make it easier.
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Cheers for the guide lads. Big help in changing the solenoid.
This hasn't solved the problem though![[:@]](/forums/styles/seatcupra/oldforumsmileys/furious.gif "Furious [:@]")
dainott2105, did you manage to figure out the problem? I know that the switch works, and the fuse is ok too so a bit stuck. I guess I will need a multimeter to see if there is any power getting to the connection at the solenoid.
SUCH A PAIN!
This hasn't solved the problem though
dainott2105, did you manage to figure out the problem? I know that the switch works, and the fuse is ok too so a bit stuck. I guess I will need a multimeter to see if there is any power getting to the connection at the solenoid.
SUCH A PAIN!
You are trying it with either the keys removed or the key in the "fully off" position, ie the same as the first instance you insert it?
Fuse is ok. I take it should be 12V?
Another thing that I noticed, when you set the multimeter to detect a connection (the multimeter beeps when the connection is made, circuit is complete) it beeped when the button was not pressed and it stopped beeping when it was. This suggests that it is a push to break switch, but it doesn't sound right. I would have thought that the beep would have happened when you press the button.
Anyone any ideas?
Another thing that I noticed, when you set the multimeter to detect a connection (the multimeter beeps when the connection is made, circuit is complete) it beeped when the button was not pressed and it stopped beeping when it was. This suggests that it is a push to break switch, but it doesn't sound right. I would have thought that the beep would have happened when you press the button.
Anyone any ideas?
Tested the old motor from the solenoid I took out and it works with a 12V supply.
As said above, sounds like a bad connection somewhere.... Where do you start??!!!
As said above, sounds like a bad connection somewhere.... Where do you start??!!!
Any chance it's a broken switch?. I've heard of them popping out before but it could be broken internally. I'm fairly certain the ECS switch is the same type. You can swap them over and test. I'd wait until someone confirms or If you're feeling brave 
Cheers for the reply allen. So you think it is something in the ECU? or the switch beside the handbreak? My sister has a mk 4 golf so I may borrow her switch and see...
It sounds like it could be that, the way the multimeter was going earlier!
It sounds like it could be that, the way the multimeter was going earlier!
ok an update , cheers mark for helping
after rippin everything apart its not my solenoid
i aint getting any power to my switch , it aint the switch as mark swapped it with his and mine works on his
we run a wire from a live and it gets power so its not getting power upto the switch
any ideas guys
cheers
after rippin everything apart its not my solenoid
i aint getting any power to my switch , it aint the switch as mark swapped it with his and mine works on his
we run a wire from a live and it gets power so its not getting power upto the switch
any ideas guys
cheers
sorted now then just need to find out if there is a seperate fuse for the switch or if there is a wiriing diagram so we can trace the colours back to somewhere
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=219258&highlight=leon+wiring+diagram
Originally Posted by muttly
i think there are some fuses also hidden somewhere under the steering wheel behind the dash.. i dont know wat they do..but worth a look maybe?
Two fuses under the dash behing the steering wheel!!!
i thought it was only the relays there!
so problem now solved!
Originally Posted by muttly
i think there are some fuses also hidden somewhere under the steering wheel behind the dash.. i dont know wat they do..but worth a look maybe?
Two fuses under the dash behing the steering wheel!!!
i thought it was only the relays there!
so problem now solved!
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