Clunking

[Kyle Townend]

I've mentioned this in a few different threads, but none seem to describe my problem perfectly.

Ill start from the beginning.

I bought some -40mm Koni springs to fit to my car, took them round to a friends house in an attempt to fix them. We tried and tried, but both of us were stupidly hungover; and in the end had to give up as we couldnt seperate the hub from the shock/spring assembly.

Next day I hear clunking coming from the area of the front right wheel (one we attempted). Think, oh christ - ive broken it....

The clunking is heard especially whilst going over bumps, but also on perfectly smooth roads, with no corners. It happens regulary, but at no set consistancy. The handling doesnt seem to be affected. At all.

Now, we are stupidly understaffed at work and literally cannot get the time off to take it to SEAT, as they cant get me a loaner car

So time for self investigation time. Im going to strip the right side front wheel tomorrow and start looking. What should I look for, and on what components?

Any help AT ALL would be greatly appreciated.

 

[muddyboots]

How much did you actually dismantle ?

Did you compress the springs ?

If so, you might find the bottom of the spring isn't seated properly. There's a small metal tab in the bottom spring carrier that the end of the spring is supposed to fit against which holds it in place; can be tricky to get it seated if you're not careful.

Also, check the anti-roll bar drop links, I suspect you might have disconnected it. If so - when refitting (which I presume you have actually done!!), I seem to remember that when doing up the upper securing nut, the bolt from the joint could start turning with it and not tighten fully.
It's the nut in this photo:

Finally - check that you fully tightened the hub nut, the one in this photo - remember you'll need a spanner on both sides

The other side of it is a splined-socket-head, if you haven't got the right tool, a pair of molegrips will hold it sufficiently whilst tightening the other side:

 

[muddyboots]

Another thought - you have tightened ALL the wheel nuts fully haven't you...
I forgot once on a Mk1 Golf of mine; not a good idea to leave them loose and drive

If you're going to dismantle the struts yourself, make a note of the tools...

1) I'd strongly suggest getting a hub spreader. I got mine from a VW dealer for about a tenner, it's VW tool 3424. Sooo much easier than trying to lever the hub open with a metal bar / screwdriver / old chisel. Slot it in, turn 90deg with a 1/2 drive ratchet, job done. It's designed with flats so that it'll stay in place while you try and figure out how to get the strut out

2) Think how you're going to undo the top strut nut and get some decent tools ready beforehand. Don't use some gnarled up old allen key, if it rounds the socket in the strut you've got even bigger headaches, and my "normal" allen keys weren't strong enough - the nut was done up so tight, they were bending by crazy amounts and weren't up to it ! Also note that the socket in the top of my new struts was a different size

3) If you've got the ability to take the RHS driveshaft out, it would be a much better & safer way than my method involving trolley jacks, blocks of wood, lots of force, and lots of swearing

 

[Kyle Townend]

Wow, some awesome pointers there - will check all of that. Pretty much everything was undone - we just couldnt compress the spring enough or lower the hub enough to seperate the two.

Braving the cold now to go have a look...

 

[Kyle Townend]

There was a rod in there somewhere with a ball joint at each end, the top end wasnt screwed to the bracket as tight as it would go.

I tightened it up, put the wheel back on - it still knocks, however not half as much. I think I will be able to tighten it up a bit more - which hopefully will cure it all together.

On another note: How much would it cost to have a pro fit my springS?

 

[muddyboots]

That'll be the anti-roll bar drop link that I mentioned above (1st photo).

Like I said, sometimes when you tighten them, the bolt starts turning with the nut so doesn't reach full tightness.

 

[Kyle Townend]

That'll be the anti-roll bar drop link that I mentioned above (1st photo).

Like I said, sometimes when you tighten them, the bolt starts turning with the nut so doesn't reach full tightness.

Aye, it was quite awkward to tighten as it was. I needed a ring spanner holding the nut, then i was screwing the torx bolt through the nut if that makes any sense in order to tighten it up. There must be a few more twists to get out of it as it is still banging.