007p Reverse or Normal Fitment

Standard or Reverse

  • Standard

    Votes: 44 63.8%
  • Reverse

    Votes: 25 36.2%

  • Total voters
    69

sambryant

RoadRunner meep meep
Mar 26, 2009
4,848
2
Bristol
sam sam sam, yes go karting is gooood and i bet yours wouldnt be louder now with my pressure hitting 1,8 bar hahaha
 

sambryant

RoadRunner meep meep
Mar 26, 2009
4,848
2
Bristol
until that day comes my friend is the day i will agree. anyway hybrid wont kick more pressure out, it will hold the pressure for longer. i will have my evo by then :)
 

Pyro

Guest
Eve smevo I'm working on a nova that will blow you away :D all I can say is 4wd and a scooby block :funk: just need to see if doing the running gear is possible and if so the it'll be on the way :D
 

bigben143

Active Member
Jan 27, 2011
67
0
Actually was reading on the web the other day that in reverse it the noise is created buy boost escaping quicker with IMHO means it out quick to go back in allowing turbo to spool quicker after gear change thus reducing turbo lag :) so has some benefit

Don't mean to be rude but i think that mite be rong pal. the diffrent noise is made beause the pressure is flowing diffrent and bouncing off the blades on your turbo makeing the diffrent noise. So in theory its doing damage to your turbo so no benifits there. sorry if i sound like a boaring t**t lol.
 

Pyro

Guest
Don't mean to be rude but i think that mite be rong pal. the diffrent noise is made beause the pressure is flowing diffrent and bouncing off the blades on your turbo makeing the diffrent noise. So in theory its doing damage to your turbo so no benifits there. sorry if i sound like a boaring t**t lol.

That would a turbo flutter mate not the ping you get from reverse fittment of the 007p ;) witch yes the sound us created buy the boost pressure bouncing of blades and stalling the turbo

The noise from the 007 in reverse is controlled souly by the 007 if air is bouncing about in the turbo then it makes a distinctive (sexy) noise on dump witch is the pressure stalling the turbo and coming back on it's self normally due to a vac leak ;)
 
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t32er

Guest
That would a turbo flutter mate not the ping you get from reverse fittment of the 007p ;) witch yes the sound us created buy the boost pressure bouncing of blades and stalling the turbo

The noise from the 007 in reverse is controlled souly by the 007 if air is bouncing about in the turbo then it makes a distinctive (sexy) noise on dump witch is the pressure stalling the turbo and coming back on it's self normally due to a vac leak ;)

just wanted to add to this
you will get the "sexy" sound if the DV is sprung to tight too **it not good really** just means it cant open enough so it sorta opens as much as it can a couple of time (easy way of describing it)
i think the ping noise is made due to the DV exits, one side is long the other short, if its connected the propper way the short end goes in to the tip, when reversed the long end is in the tip, i spose its like a sawnoff shot gun "trick"... the shorter the barrel the wider the spread - longer barrel louder noise, same kinda thing going on with the DV

** edit **
i got a little mixed up- now all sorted - thanks sam...
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Pyro

Guest
Terry you spoon when fitted normally the short end is in the tip not the long :doh:
 

Stis

Active Member
Jan 13, 2011
297
0
Derby
so a TIP, remap, and removing the soundproofing will make it louder?
mines loud enough at all (i've currently got the 007p and an airfilter - thats all)
 

DontPanic

Guest
After reading a few threads about why i get chatter between gear changes am i right in understanding it is not good for the turbo? Because i have tried all the springs from green through to red and it makes no difference to the chatter at all, however the yellow seemed to have a little less chatter. Then i tried reversing the DV (007p) still with the yellow spring and there is no chatter at all anymore just a woosh. Does this sound right?? Will be doing the N249 by-pass next weekend too.
 

DontPanic

Guest
From what i understand it is mapped yes. I only bought it last year from a guy who took it in part exchange. He told me it had been mapped. But on taking it to a friend for a service a couple of weeks ago, he pointed out that it has a sports cat on the Miltek so could well be stage 2.
 

DontPanic

Guest
Cool. Much prefere not hearing the chatter. Might be my imagination but sure it only max's at 16psi now where before it was 18. Looking forward to giving the N249 a by-pass though. EML starting to get annoying... :D
 

8bit

Active Member
Feb 11, 2010
3,401
3
Aberdeen
If you can hear a chattering sound on lift-off from most or full throttle then I'd be worried that the valve isn't opening. Remove the valve from the car, push the piston in the bottom in using a screwdriver or pen. It should feel like it needs firm pressure but shouldn't feel "sticky". Repeat a few times to be sure.

Also make sure it's snapping shut quickly enough while you're at it, it should be instant every time.
 

DontPanic

Guest
Thanks for the reply. At first I thought it may be this so I bought the DV service AND tuning kits. Cleaned it all up and have tried all the springs and ended up staying with yellow- chatter seemed less with this one. There is no chatter at all on full throttle just woosh. Was only happening at low to medium revs. Now it's reversed there is no chatter at all just the occasional ping and woosh.
 

8bit

Active Member
Feb 11, 2010
3,401
3
Aberdeen
Just re-read your last posts. What caused the EML? Have to get the car scanned with a fault code reader or, ideally, the VAGCOM or VCDS software to work out what's causing the light.

OK so if checking and servicing the valve are all good then you may have a problem with the vac line running into the top of the valve, possibly a split or insecure fixing at either end. Either of these would stop it from opening properly (or at all) and potentially throw a fault code.

If you're finding that in reverse you're not getting the chatter then I'd have thought that would support the theory that the valve wasn't opening correctly - the vacuum acting on the top of the piston may not have been enough to open it alone but now that the boost is pushing against the bottom of the piston instead of the side then that might have sorted things out a bit.

Incidentally, I wouldn't change anything else on the car until you identify and fix the cause of the EML, otherwise you could end up just confusing the issue.
 
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