what have you done to your car today ?

iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
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1,172
Don’t pull them out too fast once they’re all the way in


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I've never used one before - I still have to work out which way round they go in.

Are you supposed to lube it up first, or does it go in dry?


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jt20vt

Active Member
Sep 17, 2010
186
42
0feed8af62f7aa85a88bd2f2416c9843.jpg


These are a bit bigger than I was expecting - wondering if they're going to fit...


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Are they fitting to LCR? If so they are the wrong size.
 

iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
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Are they fitting to LCR? If so they are the wrong size.

FR TDI. I haven't got the old ones out yet to compare, but these come up as the right ones so we'll soon find out. If it comes to it, I can put the old ones back in. Thankfully the rears are much easier to do than the fronts.


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Thai-wronghorse

Self proclaimed Cupra R addict & butcher!
Dec 3, 2015
2,240
1,093
Kent
FR TDI. I haven't got the old ones out yet to compare, but these come up as the right ones so we'll soon find out. If it comes to it, I can put the old ones back in. Thankfully the rears are much easier to do than the fronts.


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Should be OK then mate.

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jt20vt

Active Member
Sep 17, 2010
186
42
Yeah should be fine on the FR TDi. Only know as made the mistake when ordering parts through tps who assured me they fitted to the LCR.
 

iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
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Meh. It would be nice if the FR was just a diesel version of the Cupra R, but there are so many little differences - like with the pressed control arms and lack of ESP.

One of these days I might just end up doing an engine swap if one comes up...


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Thai-wronghorse

Self proclaimed Cupra R addict & butcher!
Dec 3, 2015
2,240
1,093
Kent
Meh. It would be nice if the FR was just a diesel version of the Cupra R, but there are so many little differences - like with the pressed control arms and lack of ESP.

One of these days I might just end up doing an engine swap if one comes up...


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PD150 into an R shell?

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iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
1,784
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PD150 into an R shell?

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In the end it would probably cost less just to buy all those parts and fit them than it would to get a Cupra R and then have to fix all those *other* problems I’ve already fixed on my FR - especially if the Cupra R has been ragged. One day an LS7Y Cupra R bumper has to come up on eBay. At the same time, if I had a car with a BAM, I’d probably just keep that!

And of course, if I put *my* PD150 into another car, I’ve still got the problems I’ve got now with my dirty engine. I’d love to find out if you can fit a more modern diesel in a mk1 body though.


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MoToJoJo

Active Member
Mar 25, 2014
823
653
Northants
I’d love to find out if you can fit a more modern diesel in a mk1 body though.

Can't see why not, although it comes down to if the cost is worth it over just having a more modern car.

As for the Cupra R bit, spec on mine (at least chassis wise) is Cupra R. All it's missing are the Brembos up front and I'm not that fussed about those...yet. Worth upgrading? Depends how hard you want to drive or how long you want components to last.

As for ESP, I won't be bothering as it's a) hassle and b) a bit pointless unless you're planning to run out of talent regularly (just my opinion)
 

MoToJoJo

Active Member
Mar 25, 2014
823
653
Northants
Did a little work

20210828_145935.jpg


This is probably the least important thing on a big list to get done before a road trip but hey, at least it's something ticked off.

Just... reroute some switch wiring, replace wash/wipe stalk, tidy up wiring, finish installing the seatbelt buckles, maybe do the solid top mounts and tweak the tracking to do in... about 24hrs.

No pressure
 
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Rich.T

Active Member
Feb 15, 2020
1,609
932
Just do the bits needed to keep it mobile 👍

Still havnt fitted my number plates that i got a few days ago.
No time.
If i cant find 10 minutes on Monday, it'll probably be next weekend.

I thought things were supposed to get easier when you got older?!?!?
 

Sl1ced

Active Member
Oct 10, 2020
797
404
So I can still feel my gearstick move forward/backward when I accelerate in 1/3/5. I fitted the replacement dogbone and that has helped but only by 30% or so, I have an AUQ and I’m guessing my mounts are gone? Am I right in thinking there is one engine and one gearbox plus the dogbone? I’ve been putting this off but I think it has to be done,


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MoToJoJo

Active Member
Mar 25, 2014
823
653
Northants
Few more things ticked off the list
20210828_173654.jpg


As the pipe from the washer bottle to the rear is still there, this was an important mod 🤣

20210828_172546.jpg


Still a work in progress but a bit more usable now (double fuel flap cuz I screwed up the install so I have to buy another mount, boot switch is actually TCS now)
 

MoToJoJo

Active Member
Mar 25, 2014
823
653
Northants
So I can still feel my gearstick move forward/backward when I accelerate in 1/3/5. I fitted the replacement dogbone and that has helped but only by 30% or so, I have an AUQ and I’m guessing my mounts are gone? Am I right in thinking there is one engine and one gearbox plus the dogbone? I’ve been putting this off but I think it has to be done,

Yup, just the two and the dogbone. Sure someone with better knowledge will say if this is what needs doing but then always a good time to upgrade engine mounts 👍
 

Sl1ced

Active Member
Oct 10, 2020
797
404
I will replace them with stock, my car is nothing special and I can’t afford it at the moment


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iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
1,784
1,172
I will replace them with stock, my car is nothing special and I can’t afford it at the moment


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Stolen from an old thread, as I was thinking about doing mine at some point... I don't think they're too expensive either...

"Passenger side.

Remove trim on back of headlight.
Remove battery cover, undo battery terminals and remove battery.
Remove battery tray.
Remove air box/induction filter
Pull top off the wire trunking.
place jack under gearbox to support it
Undo the 5 engine mount bolts 2 18mm 2x 16mm and I think 1 13mm remove mount and replace with new one.

Drivers side.

Remove 2 screws from header tank and unplug multiblock.
Undo the allen head bolt holding PS pot on
Remove 2 10mm bolts holding in carbon canister and unplug it
Remove 2 13mm bolts holding bracket from inner wing to top of engine mount
I didn't actually remove any of these things just unbolted them so I could get to the bolts
Support engine with jack
Remove 2 18mm and 2 16mm bolts and remove mount, replace with new one"


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Sl1ced

Active Member
Oct 10, 2020
797
404
Stolen from an old thread, as I was thinking about doing mine at some point... I don't think they're too expensive either...

"Passenger side.

Remove trim on back of headlight.
Remove battery cover, undo battery terminals and remove battery.
Remove battery tray.
Remove air box/induction filter
Pull top off the wire trunking.
place jack under gearbox to support it
Undo the 5 engine mount bolts 2 18mm 2x 16mm and I think 1 13mm remove mount and replace with new one.

Drivers side.

Remove 2 screws from header tank and unplug multiblock.
Undo the allen head bolt holding PS pot on
Remove 2 10mm bolts holding in carbon canister and unplug it
Remove 2 13mm bolts holding bracket from inner wing to top of engine mount
I didn't actually remove any of these things just unbolted them so I could get to the bolts
Support engine with jack
Remove 2 18mm and 2 16mm bolts and remove mount, replace with new one"


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Almost sounds too easy…….


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