Do it! It’s not twitchy, more the back end isn’t being dragged about as much, feels nicely direct. To get it be tail happy you’re either running crap tyres or you’re close to the raggedy edge (my experience is in the wet on Eagle F1s and driving… how shall I put it… “dynamically”)
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what have you done to your car today ?
- Thread starter seatcupramad23
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Do it! It’s not twitchy, more the back end isn’t being dragged about as much, feels nicely direct. To get it be tail happy you’re either running crap tyres or you’re close to the raggedy edge (my experience is in the wet on Eagle F1s and driving… how shall I put it… “dynamically”)
did you use a aftermarket maf or gen as gen is hard to get hold of unless direct
read that brembo disc side been sold off and not as good now and Pagid discs are the one to look at,had brembo on front and ferodo fast rd pads as well for a while as i got brake fade on the remap , Pagid standard pads on rear
I wanted genuine so settled for a second hand one from a reputable supplier. They’ve said if I get any issues with it to let them know
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Just a bosch MAF is fine, when people say genuine they mean not counterfit bosch, as there are many of those on ebay type places.
yea it can throw and error, cleaned mine and fine europarts use to stock the bosch were did you get yours from?
started on the rear door locks today never done them before and not as bad as i thought as some models the window/guides have to come out, all going well ill endup with two rear working locks once i replace parts,
that plastic thing on the lock and connects to the inner panel i did not put on as it seems to not do anything and they are always broke and flopping around lol
that plastic thing on the lock and connects to the inner panel i did not put on as it seems to not do anything and they are always broke and flopping around lol
The black plastic tab that joins the regulator panel to the lock mechanism is simply there for factory assembly purposes.
I always bin them.
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I always bin them.
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You don't have to punch out the peg and dowel thing from the bottom of the window to get everything out?
It's been years since I touched my rear doors so can't remember, but I need to replace my offside lock and I'd be a little less reluctant if I didn't have to go through all that again...
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thought that and they break on there own I've tried gluing them in the past, thing is they do have a guide attached but tried without and still runs free
i used a self tapping screw to grip then pull and waggle, then just pushed the outer pin though, fitting back i used silicon spray makes everything allot easier, i thought that was going tobe a right pain but worked out ok but removing the speaker does help allot as long you have rivets and a gun to fit back, thing is i did strip the new aftermarket locks down first and test also lubricated mech and motor using a contact oil and mechanical side as its hit and miss if they come dry or not, makes a big difference on operation of the lock, don't throw the old lock away as there useful have ago at stripping them down just to see how they work and parts are useful got a drivers genuine spare due to that , might be something or nothing with none working lock like a broken solder or a dry/sticking lock,
still got the rear passenger todo but at least I'm not going in blind now or using the force lol, what's up with the lock that needs replacing? is it genuine or copy?
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At least it's easier than half the jobs I've got to do in the engine bay...
It looks like the original lock and I'm pretty sure I have a microswitch issue with it. It locks and unlocks absolutely fine, but the door light barely comes on and the car will lock itself and set the alarm if I haven't opened the driver's door first.
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See if there is an engine bay for sale on eBay lol, yep that’s the microswich, depending what model of switch you can buy them to replace it.
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