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what have you done to your car today ?

Connor H

Active Member
Dec 19, 2019
1,023
503
Essex
I've just put one side in. Used two steel disks with a hole drilled in the middle, and some threaded bar. They went in without any trouble, but you do need something to push them in.

So I was trying to get my offside done as well, only when I was undoing the lower shock absorber bolt, it got to the end of the thread and stopped. It looks like it's threading itself now.

Crap.

I'm feeling like I'm going to have to hacksaw off the old one and put a new one in.

Anyone know where I can get a replacement nut and bolt from? I'm screwed otherwise.


I know you've used them before but i always use VAGbolts for bits like that
 
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iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
1,783
1,172
I know you've used them before but i always use VAGbolts for bits like that

Yep - that's who I bought them from. They posted them last night, so with any luck they'll get here tomorrow, but I've got the Halfords bolt on there and torqued to spec, so it'll last for the time being. I was a bit annoyed they never replied to my message about the rear beam bolts, but I did manage to get some elsewhere.

016f1b30021f2e80ebd909735a0ff5fd.jpg


Everything installed and the car is back on the ground. Just need to torque the bolts and I'll be able to take it for a test drive.

All in all it was a pig to do. It was just so physical. When you get down to do it, it's all quite straightforward, but just make sure you've got some mugs of sugary tea and some ibuprofen to hand.


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Connor H

Active Member
Dec 19, 2019
1,023
503
Essex
Yep - that's who I bought them from. They posted them last night, so with any luck they'll get here tomorrow, but I've got the Halfords bolt on there and torqued to spec, so it'll last for the time being. I was a bit annoyed they never replied to my message about the rear beam bolts, but I did manage to get some elsewhere.

016f1b30021f2e80ebd909735a0ff5fd.jpg


Everything installed and the car is back on the ground. Just need to torque the bolts and I'll be able to take it for a test drive.

All in all it was a pig to do. It was just so physical. When you get down to do it, it's all quite straightforward, but just make sure you've got some mugs of sugary tea and some ibuprofen to hand.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Good work man, i think im going to attempt this within the next week before my remap next tuesday.

Ive got a jacks, stands, a drill, hammers, angle grinder, sockets, penetrating juice and a hub/bearing pull kit (which i may use to fashion a bush press)

anything else you might suggest ill need? Ill have a J for the pain after :p
 
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iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
1,783
1,172
Good work man, i think im going to attempt this within the next week before my remap next tuesday.

Ive got a jacks, stands, a drill, hammers, angle grinder, sockets, penetrating juice and a hub/bearing pull kit (which i may use to fashion a bush press)

anything else you might suggest ill need? Ill have a J for the pain after :p

Just make sure you've got all the tools you need - I didn't have an 18mm socket and spanner for the bolts holding the trailing arm in the bracket, as well as a 16mm spanner for the nut side of the lower shock mount. It really slowed me down having to order that stuff and then go and get it when I didn't have the car.

If you don't fancy disconnecting the brake lines, you'll need to saw through the retaining bracket on the beam and then uniclip the plastic hard line brackets - it's just a careful hacksaw job. I used a mini hacksaw where the blade sticks out from the end - it's handy for sawing the sleeve too.

The guides out there are generally for mk4 Golfs and Octavias, and while the nearside is pretty straightforward, the bolt on the offside won't come out because it'll hit the fuel tank, so you'll need to drop the retaining bracket. I used a breaker bar to undo them and it was fairly easy - just be careful when you put them back, because otherwise the rear wheels might be out of alignment. Oh, and before tightening anything up, make sure the spring is seated properly. You don't want to have to drop it all again...

The most time consuming part for me was getting the bolt hole lined up - lots of jacking up, pry bar, lower it, pry bar...

All I need to do now is torque it now it's on the ground. If you torque it when it's in the air, it twists the bush when it's lowered again.


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Rich.T

Active Member
Feb 15, 2020
1,609
932
Let us know how you get on (y)
Going to check mine asap.
16 years old and 109k on the clock. Probably due a change.
 

Connor H

Active Member
Dec 19, 2019
1,023
503
Essex
Just make sure you've got all the tools you need - I didn't have an 18mm socket and spanner for the bolts holding the trailing arm in the bracket, as well as a 16mm spanner for the nut side of the lower shock mount. It really slowed me down having to order that stuff and then go and get it when I didn't have the car.

If you don't fancy disconnecting the brake lines, you'll need to saw through the retaining bracket on the beam and then uniclip the plastic hard line brackets - it's just a careful hacksaw job. I used a mini hacksaw where the blade sticks out from the end - it's handy for sawing the sleeve too.

The guides out there are generally for mk4 Golfs and Octavias, and while the nearside is pretty straightforward, the bolt on the offside won't come out because it'll hit the fuel tank, so you'll need to drop the retaining bracket. I used a breaker bar to undo them and it was fairly easy - just be careful when you put them back, because otherwise the rear wheels might be out of alignment. Oh, and before tightening anything up, make sure the spring is seated properly. You don't want to have to drop it all again...

The most time consuming part for me was getting the bolt hole lined up - lots of jacking up, pry bar, lower it, pry bar...

All I need to do now is torque it now it's on the ground. If you torque it when it's in the air, it twists the bush when it's lowered again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tools

18mm socket
16mm spanner
mini hacksaw
drill possibly
Pry bar
Torque wrench
2x jacks
2x stands

-----------------------------

Notes

saw through the retaining bracket on the beam and then unclip the hard line brackets
mind the offside bolt > clearance by fuel tank
Lower beam with jacks and mind the brake lines
torque on the ground


Think im good to go, just need to find a threaded rod and some nuts and bolts

Last question, pretty sure you fit the metal inserts after the bush is in right?
 
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iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
1,783
1,172
Tools

18mm socket
18mm spanner
16mm socket
16mm spanner
mini hacksaw
drill possibly
Pry bar
Torque wrench
2x jacks
2x stands

-----------------------------

Notes

saw through the retaining bracket on the beam and then unclip the hard line brackets
mind the offside bolt > clearance by fuel tank
Lower beam with jacks and mind the brake lines
torque on the ground


Think im good to go, just need to find a threaded rod and some nuts and bolts

Last question, pretty sure you fit the metal inserts after the bush is in right?

I added an 18mm spanner and 16mm socket to the list... I used offset spanners, as I'm going to use an offset for the wishbone rear bush top bolt, but any spanner will do.

I think the insert with the Flo-Flex bushes is already installed, so you won't need to worry about that - you wouldn't be able to put it in afterwards in any case.

With the bolts fouling on the fuel tank, I don't know if you can reverse the bolts so the nut is on the inside and the bolt on the outside, but that would stop it from hitting the tank. I was tempted to take off the arch liner to get better access, but didn't need to in the end. To be honest, I have no plans on going near it again. I used thread lock as well, just in case... My bolts were fine when I got them off, but put new ones in just in case.

You'll probably only end up using one jack, but it's handy to have - I jacked up the underside of the shock just to help move the beam into position. Just to say, I did one side at a time, which will help with both knocking out the old bushes and stopping the brake lines from getting too stressed. It does sway when you hit it and the jack will move a bit, but if you've undone all the right fittings for the brake lines, it should be fine.

For the threaded rod, I got this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M6-M8-M1...var=583448522424&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I got the M10 one that's 300mm long, but It was probably a bit too long. M10 nuts and washers and you're good to go.

Just in case, these were the discs I got too: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MILD-STE...var=631972677375&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

75mm round and 6mm thick was perfect.

I'm sure I've forgotten something, but if I remember I'll drop you a message. If you have any questions, just send a message and I'll help out. I've always found it's the little things that can make a huge difference on these kinds of jobs.
 

iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
1,783
1,172
Drop link bolt snapped while I was trying to fit the front ARB bushes. There's a little bit still sticking out of the wishbone. Fingers crossed...
 

Connor H

Active Member
Dec 19, 2019
1,023
503
Essex
417e48c0f547d094ae2437556b8284ca.jpg



These are bulging badly and I’m having extreme difficulty pressing them in. To the point the nut won’t thread anymore and the whole lot is spinning.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
1,783
1,172
417e48c0f547d094ae2437556b8284ca.jpg



These are bulging badly and I’m having extreme difficulty pressing them in. To the point the nut won’t thread anymore and the whole lot is spinning.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's the point you need to wind back the press and pop the sockets in. The bush has gone in as far as it can go, and the narrow end is butting against the other side. When you undo it, you'll see what I mean.
 
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