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what have you done to your car today ?
- Thread starter seatcupramad23
- Start date
NOOOOOOOOO
I need those horses! ill have none left at this rate D: Option to substitute myself for the doll or one of the choir boys?
I bought a spare wheel as it didnt come with one and cut a piece of 65x65x5mm polystyrene to fit the spacesaver and jacking tools inside it.
Switched the mirrors from folding when "long pressed" to "single click", as its not winter anymore.
Switched the mirrors from folding when "long pressed" to "single click", as its not winter anymore.
You may make me a offer I will take it off the car when it comes off the ramp in a bit and I will try get the string as well
I will get pictures too
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Just Incase as I’ve emailed you back, i will have 3D printed in black ABS jacking point covers going up for sale next week from the website.
Also Connor, about your pressure drop I also had this issue and solved it by replacing my old PCV valve and recirc valve.
Also a good place to check is the MAP sensor! As it is what measures the air going into the engine after the intercooler
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love your knob mateGot a fancy Seat Sport Carbon shift knob and a nice little shifter boot haha . Don’t like the blue though
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The code was on and off for a week or two, i did a couple of rounds of tightening to no avail. The last effort i switched my DV back to standard , took out my O2 spacer and put the sensor in the new sport cat, and cable tied a few small vac hoses to my boost gauge. couple of days all clear. I did 100 miles yesterday and so far so good. Actually felt better, [a friend] took it to 110mph no issues.
good shout on PCV, if the issue carries on ill look into that and my n75. Although the code appeared on idle and randomly as opposed to on boost etc. The code specified a leak between turbo and throttle valve so i doubled down in that area. I did notice the boost hose wit hthe metal collar had a mm or 2 play, but it was still locked on.
In any which case @mamic has gracefully sold me a FMIC kit, so that will further squash (or make much worse) the boost issues.
Last note, my MAP sensor mount has been through some battles getting a snapped screw out, the mount is not flush anymore as it got nipped with a grinder and some blowtorch action (not my idea) Mates said dont worry but a flush mount is something i'll get mega anal about, and has bugged me since it then. its minor but its definitely on my list.
(sorry for the life story)
Forgot to mention
Forgot to mention i only have a crappy reader, it does give me basic stats like MAF and some temps, but i havnt figured out if its capable of reading specific stuff like the MAP
vs600 vgate is what i have if its any use, got it for a tenner off egay lol
Just Incase as I’ve emailed you back, i will have 3D printed in black ABS jacking point covers going up for sale next week from the website.
Also Connor, about your pressure drop I also had this issue and solved it by replacing my old PCV valve and recirc valve.
Also a good place to check is the MAP sensor! As it is what measures the air going into the engine after the intercooler
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Forgot to mention i only have a crappy reader, it does give me basic stats like MAF and some temps, but i havnt figured out if its capable of reading specific stuff like the MAP
vs600 vgate is what i have if its any use, got it for a tenner off egay lol
You got a boost gauge? What’s your vac at idle? Should be around 20inhg or .6bar vac
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I got one for this reason so glad im using it
It idles at -22inhg, maybe -24inhg when its warmed up
on boost 12psi spike ans holds 10psi
When the limp kicks in i know because my idle is the telltale sign, boost shows 19/20inhg~ and idle is lumpy and sometimes cough/spluttery. and on boost 5psi max
Also my MPG has changed since the code has been on and off, its stayed a little worse than it was regardless of limp mode now.
Okay so good news is that you don’t have a vac leak. I would really suggest swapping the MAP sensor. As it sits right before the throttle bottle after the intercooler. (It measures the „manifold absolute pressure“) so if you’re getting a pressure drop fault code between charger and throttle body this could be of help.
You don’t have a tube right? Stock mapping?
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Stock map which is why i wasnt paying much attention to the map sensor before ruling out leaks.
I agree that its looking like the culprit. Do I need to go OEM/New for map sensor? Dont know anyone local to switch the sensor out for another sadly. At the moment im thinking its something to do with the bodged mount, so by the end of the week i should have my fmic on and that will point to the sensor itself if it still throws the code.
I went with original Bosch. For mine it was part number 0 281 002 177 here is a pic of the old one. Be sure to look at yours and get the part number off of it. As they had 2 different sized ones. (Diameter of the Sensor)
I got mine of amazon for 40€ and arrived next day.
Also it would be pretty easy to find a leak in your stock intercooler piping. As there would be oil coming out of the crack into the outer surface. Mine had a small boost leak where the metal pipe attaches behind the engine to the rubber hose using a dinky big spring C clip. When these don’t sit right they leak ever so slightly. But if it leaked, you wouldn’t be getting decent boost.
Do yourself a favor and run your boost gauge line directly to the port on top of throttle body or under intake manifold. Then you’re reading the exact pressure the engine sees after the intercooler. IMHO reading from the Turbo area can lead to false readings if there is a problem with the car.
Stock map for me peaks 12-13psi and settles 9-10psi but I’m running a higher flowing exhaust manifold so it could bring those numbers up a bit.
Hope this helps buddy and I hope you find the problem
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I got mine of amazon for 40€ and arrived next day.
Also it would be pretty easy to find a leak in your stock intercooler piping. As there would be oil coming out of the crack into the outer surface. Mine had a small boost leak where the metal pipe attaches behind the engine to the rubber hose using a dinky big spring C clip. When these don’t sit right they leak ever so slightly. But if it leaked, you wouldn’t be getting decent boost.
Do yourself a favor and run your boost gauge line directly to the port on top of throttle body or under intake manifold. Then you’re reading the exact pressure the engine sees after the intercooler. IMHO reading from the Turbo area can lead to false readings if there is a problem with the car.
Stock map for me peaks 12-13psi and settles 9-10psi but I’m running a higher flowing exhaust manifold so it could bring those numbers up a bit.
Hope this helps buddy and I hope you find the problem
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I have had all my intercooler piping out and double checked after refitting, im confident its not there. I checked every hose aside from coolant hoses. The turbo hose with the silly clip had a mil or two of play but was sturdy. Could well be leaking from there as theres oil residue. That will be fixed also by the fmic too anyway (if i install it properly lol)
My gauge is currently tapped off my dv with the N249 bypassed, i know lots of people scoff at that but its been fine for me. Duly noted about taking it off the intake mani, theres a one or two spare ports on there.
Sweet, didnt know you could get legit bosch stuff online especially amazon. Once everything's finished with the cooler ill get a new map sensor. Im certain its the 12mm variant, as i have two adapters here in my kit and can remember the sensor's approx size. Either way will get the number off the sensor itself.
Thanks for your help mate! Its been annoying me for a couple weeks now, but at least i know its a common issue.
Also have a horrible whine when driving which i hope will be solved by a gearbox shim mod arriving. Busy week! I should really start a readers ride thread
Manic172
https://m.facebook.com/ManicMotorsport1
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