Ow not that mk5 Ibiza again.....

Mustang2044

Active Member
Nov 2, 2013
17
0
Them wheels are the boss! they look mighty, lovely car btw. You wouldn't like to hit a pot hole, or even a pebble. lol
 

t.oldaker

SFS Performance Hoses Rep
Jul 5, 2011
894
0
Bournemouth
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Cheers guys :)

Going to be ordering up some new front tyres this week 205/35 to replace the 215/35's which will see a minimal drop up front but will give just enough clearance to drop the car a further 20mm remaining on the coilovers.

Will post an update once thats done and then when the Aero bumper is finally painted and fitted.

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5509433

Active Member
Aug 8, 2011
949
7
Braintree, Essex
Alright mate,

Going back to when you removed the rear adjusters, exactly what did you remove? Is the spring just sitting against the chassis of the car, or is there still a rubber spacer or something?

I remove the adjuster nut from my Bilsteins, but now the springs knock on the threaded isolator that the nut screws on to. I was debating about removing that as well, am not sure how well the springs will like it nut being "secured" up the top.
 

t.oldaker

SFS Performance Hoses Rep
Jul 5, 2011
894
0
Bournemouth
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Alright mate,

Going back to when you removed the rear adjusters, exactly what did you remove? Is the spring just sitting against the chassis of the car, or is there still a rubber spacer or something?

I remove the adjuster nut from my Bilsteins, but now the springs knock on the threaded isolator that the nut screws on to. I was debating about removing that as well, am not sure how well the springs will like it nut being "secured" up the top.

I removed the bottom threaded adjusters but kept the rubber top locators on the spring-chassis.

I have found no issues with it atal and no issues with springs moving out of location as people mentioned may happen. Its impossible for it to move unless you unbolt the shocks from the lower arm to let it drop down further. I wouldnt recommend removing the rubber bit though...
 

5509433

Active Member
Aug 8, 2011
949
7
Braintree, Essex
I removed the bottom threaded adjusters but kept the rubber top locators on the spring-chassis.

I have found no issues with it atal and no issues with springs moving out of location as people mentioned may happen. Its impossible for it to move unless you unbolt the shocks from the lower arm to let it drop down further. I wouldnt recommend removing the rubber bit though...

On mine the spring seats on the bottom and the adjuster set up sits on top of the spring followed by the rubber ring.
With the original rubber isolators, they twist locked onto the spring. To keep the spring straight.
Are these the rubber bits you are using, or are you referring to something else that came in your kit?

Cheers mate,
 

t.oldaker

SFS Performance Hoses Rep
Jul 5, 2011
894
0
Bournemouth
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On mine the spring seats on the bottom and the adjuster set up sits on top of the spring followed by the rubber ring.
With the original rubber isolators, they twist locked onto the spring. To keep the spring straight.
Are these the rubber bits you are using, or are you referring to something else that came in your kit?

Cheers mate,

Um sounds like they are setup slightly differently as my adjusters screw onto the lower arm then the spring is seated around that with the rubber top sitting on the top of the spring. Hopefully these pictures kinda show you what i mean after id taken the metal adjuster out the bottom.

2013-02-23171656_zps3c3f1fd7.jpg


2013-02-23171711_zps9175d64c.jpg
 
Last edited:

5509433

Active Member
Aug 8, 2011
949
7
Braintree, Essex
Thanks for the pictures mate.
Looks like the top of your spring has the rubber bit to grab onto, where as my rubber spacer does not seat into the spring its self.
Also, your springs are the other way around to how I was told to install them.
Ill try using the stock rubber isolators with the springs and see what drop that gives me.
 

5509433

Active Member
Aug 8, 2011
949
7
Braintree, Essex
Alright mate,

I ended up using the original mounts and turning the spring up the other way after countless research of which way the spring should go.
Bilstein them selfs told me to mount it upside down....

I get the same drop, and from what I can hear I haven't hear the springs knock amy more.

This was the top mount I was using with out the adjuster nut.

IMG_1084.JPG


IMG_1085.JPG


IMG_1086.JPG


One more question, when the car weight is on the rear springs, do the tighter coils touch? My springs seem fully compressed at the top, all the time... as if the spring isn't strong enough.
 

t.oldaker

SFS Performance Hoses Rep
Jul 5, 2011
894
0
Bournemouth
www.facebook.com
Alright mate,

I ended up using the original mounts and turning the spring up the other way after countless research of which way the spring should go.
Bilstein them selfs told me to mount it upside down....

I get the same drop, and from what I can hear I haven't hear the springs knock amy more.

This was the top mount I was using with out the adjuster nut.

IMG_1084.JPG


IMG_1085.JPG


IMG_1086.JPG


One more question, when the car weight is on the rear springs, do the tighter coils touch? My springs seem fully compressed at the top, all the time... as if the spring isn't strong enough.

From what im lead to believe the spring has a build in helper which is why they are built the way they are with small gaps then larger gaps. You want to make sure you cut you bumpstops down though as this could well be why its not dropping much more and it is sitting on them.
 

t.oldaker

SFS Performance Hoses Rep
Jul 5, 2011
894
0
Bournemouth
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Latest addition

Needs:
- Lips flared to meet arches,
- Bottom attaches as the screw holes are larger on here so need some washers,
- A good polish once its 100% dry as its fresh paint.

995294_10153681194450468_394431460_n.jpg
 

t.oldaker

SFS Performance Hoses Rep
Jul 5, 2011
894
0
Bournemouth
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Looks good man. Shame you can't flare the bumper the match the arches. What did you do about the plastic underneath the arch?

No the lips are going to be heated and bent to meet the arches. No way im leaving it like that :p haha just didnt get a chance today before it pissed it down. Um it has no arch liners anymore as they were sitting on the tyre when it was dropped.
 

nightflight

Active Member
May 18, 2009
2,677
13
Sheffield
From what im lead to believe the spring has a build in helper which is why they are built the way they are with small gaps then larger gaps..

Have I got the wrong end of the stick?
The reason they have small gaps then large gaps is because they are progressively wound springs. That way they are softer to start with to absorb little bumps without being too stiff , then as you out more force into them, such as cornering, they firm up.


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