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goob2000
Guest
This is a great little mod, for peanuts! Just did this on mine, hoping to get rid of a light constant breaking noise that I can hear from the passanger side all the time above 20mph. I cleaned up the rear breaks and wound the pistons back in and added copper grease and moxy to try and prevent any siezing calipers (no issues with movement on the slider pins).
The mechanisim the handbrake cable attaches to, it seems to be movable (not too easily), but what is the default position meant to be when the handbrake is off or on? I only ask cos it seems that the arm in mine does not move whether it is on or off????? (its the part that the top arm of the spring attaches too). Is this meant to move when the handbrake is under tension...or does it just stay the same all the time???
The mechanisim the handbrake cable attaches to, it seems to be movable (not too easily), but what is the default position meant to be when the handbrake is off or on? I only ask cos it seems that the arm in mine does not move whether it is on or off????? (its the part that the top arm of the spring attaches too). Is this meant to move when the handbrake is under tension...or does it just stay the same all the time???
Do you mean the crank arm that the handbrake cable attaches to at the caliper? It should move when the handbrake is applied, as it is applying mechanical pressure to the piston so as to apply the handbrake. It sounds as though you have a seized handbrake mechanism on that side.
Jack up that side, apply the handbrake and see if the wheel can be rotated. Now release it, and see if there's any difference.
The rest position should be 1mm off the end stop when the handbrake lever is fully released i.e. down as far as it will go.
Jack up that side, apply the handbrake and see if the wheel can be rotated. Now release it, and see if there's any difference.
The rest position should be 1mm off the end stop when the handbrake lever is fully released i.e. down as far as it will go.
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goob2000
Guest
Yeah that's the badger. The arm that holds the handbrake cable. It does seem to stay about 1mm off the end stop, even with it on or off. I jacked both wheels up, span them with and without the handbrake on. Seems to work as it should, handbrake on, wheel can't be spun. Handbrake off, wheel can spin (albeit with slight brake rubbing sound at both sides-I've already filed down the lips of the disks and freed up a sticky pad). Thing is- that crank arm stays the same position handbrake off or on- near the end stop!?!
As always, appreciate the advice muttley!!
If you are getting brake application from the handbrake then the lever must be moving - the crank arm rotates the threaded rod up the middle of the piston to apply force to the brake pads. There is an auto-adjustment mechanism that keeps the pads very close to the disk so that the handbrake lever movement stays the same as the pads wear down.
But that lever's got to be moving!
But that lever's got to be moving!
I order under the name of the place I work, to get trade discount.
But you don't need an account, just walk in and ask for what you want.
goob2000
Guest
Nice one muttley. Just took the offending caliper apart, worked the arm mechanism- it does move (not easily) and handbrake on or off its stays at 1mm from end stop. So it would seem I need possibly a new caliper. Noticed that with the handbrake off, and wheel off, I couldn't rotate the disk, which suggests that it's jammed on. The caliper seems in decent enough condition and sliders don't look bent or are jammed, so I assume there's an internal spring in the caliper near the piston winding mechanism that's returning the arm to 1mm even with handbrake on or off!! B@stard!!
Unless there's another way to adjust this!?!
There is a return spring inside the piston that keeps the autoadjust mechanism in place. It's a bit feeble when it comes to working the external bellcrank, especially if it's got corroded or dirty.
You can't lose anything by trying to clean the pivot where the handbrake crank goes into the caliper. Just be aware that there's a seal in there that stops the brake fluid from escaping (the crank pivot goes into the caliper cylinder to get to the piston rod) so don't get overenthusiastic and start digging at the join. WD-40 to get the worst of the corrosion off then spray oil or chain lube to keep things moving.
It is a fairly ugly compromise, and calipers do become seized to the point where a replacement is a good idea. You can try a scrapyard, but make sure the caliper you get isn't suffering from the same problem.
You can't lose anything by trying to clean the pivot where the handbrake crank goes into the caliper. Just be aware that there's a seal in there that stops the brake fluid from escaping (the crank pivot goes into the caliper cylinder to get to the piston rod) so don't get overenthusiastic and start digging at the join. WD-40 to get the worst of the corrosion off then spray oil or chain lube to keep things moving.
It is a fairly ugly compromise, and calipers do become seized to the point where a replacement is a good idea. You can try a scrapyard, but make sure the caliper you get isn't suffering from the same problem.
Picked them up today and fitted them straightaway
Caliper springs by ND-Photo.nl, on Flickr
Caliper spring mod 1/2 by ND-Photo.nl, on Flickr
Caliper spring mod 2/2 by ND-Photo.nl, on Flickr
Caliper springs by ND-Photo.nl, on Flickr
Caliper spring mod 1/2 by ND-Photo.nl, on Flickr
Caliper spring mod 2/2 by ND-Photo.nl, on Flickr
lol4fun
Guest
The part numbers below dont fit and appear to be a different shape :/
N/s part no 1K0615295
O/s part no 1K0615296
N/s part no 1K0615295
O/s part no 1K0615296
lol4fun
Guest
Ahh that explains it, I have the springs mentioned in post #10 on that forum. so I install them the other way round lol no wonder I was confused
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lol4fun
Guest
Think I’m suffering this on my LCR. Is this fault known to be intermittent?
E.g. If I leave the car for a few days, when I first pull away it sounds like the rear brakes are being unstuck. No other issues when driving and when I arrive at destination and then drive, say an hour later there is no issue when pulling away.
Might just order them anyway but just wondering if it might be something else causing it?
E.g. If I leave the car for a few days, when I first pull away it sounds like the rear brakes are being unstuck. No other issues when driving and when I arrive at destination and then drive, say an hour later there is no issue when pulling away.
Might just order them anyway but just wondering if it might be something else causing it?
No car mechanic could 
They are shaped to fit so that the bent leg clears the pivot nut of the handbrake mech.
The ends of each leg are also a different shape, as are the holes on the caliper itself.
Technically it wouldn't make a big difference if they were fitted on the wrong side etc as the spring would still be trying to open out in the same way - however, the difference in the leg ends may cause it to sit at a funny angle and may affect operation.
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