Faulty Electrics (immobiliser issue)

[STU]

Just had mine repaired by PDT in Sunderland (thanks Hargo). After living with no fuel gauge & wonky temp gauge for ages, when the imobiliser started to play up it was time for action. If like me you dont fancy doing it your self then PDT are a nice bunch of chaps and very reasonable. The guy had a theory as why this happens - wiring loom not designed for use with ajustable steering so its too short and puts undue strain on the connector block when the wheel is pulled toward the driver. He said he has got vehicles to start by moving the ajustable column in and out which I suppose is like wiggling the connector block.

 

[mclay]

hi guys had the imobiliser issue just start on my pd130. am going to have a go at resoldering the connector just wondering if i will have any warning lights or problems from disconeting the electrics. also sorry for being stupid but no familiar with vag-com ? what is it ?. thanks for any info.

 

[Ol' Timer]

My outside temperature gauge and fuel gauge had been playing up for many months. After reading this thread, I removed the cubby hole to the right of the steering column and reached up through the hole to the plug on the back of the instrument cluster. I gave it a good wiggle and pressed it firmly home. As a result of this the instruments have been behaving themselves for a couple of months. I don't for one minute think I have fixed it and I am sure it will go wrong again at some point but it has given me a breathing space to get some money together for a proper repair.

 

[samussamus1]

hi guys had the imobiliser issue just start on my pd130. am going to have a go at resoldering the connector just wondering if i will have any warning lights or problems from disconeting the electrics. also sorry for being stupid but no familiar with vag-com ? what is it ?. thanks for any info.

Plug and play after resoldering, its fine, had mine done.....it will give an error when you plug a computer in, but you can wipe that, or just disconnect the battery when doing the work

 

[samussamus1]

My outside temperature gauge and fuel gauge had been playing up for many months. After reading this thread, I removed the cubby hole to the right of the steering column and reached up through the hole to the plug on the back of the instrument cluster. I gave it a good wiggle and pressed it firmly home. As a result of this the instruments have been behaving themselves for a couple of months. I don't for one minute think I have fixed it and I am sure it will go wrong again at some point but it has given me a breathing space to get some money together for a proper repair.

Exactly what I had! Outside temp and fuel gauge go nuts, wait till it gets worse then (or not)
the lot start dying and your car will turn off or wont start due to the immobilizer, £50 for a resolder from someone I know....its easy if you can solder.

 

[mclay]

had a go at tackling the imobiliser issue today first I gota say thanks to bondiblu for ure illustrations would of been a bit lost without those. But it was still a bit of a mare very akward to get the cluster out and in and the purple clip on the green connector is quite fragile my clumsy hands managed to break it straight away lol. Didnt do any soldering because it looked pretty good just think connection was loose. But thanks for the info guys

 

[mclay]

Also can the imobiliser turn the car off whilst driving or just stop it from starting?.

 

[mclay]

Car playin up all the time now took about half our to start earlier can the imobiliser be disconnected completley? Its really pissing me of now.

 

[Bondiblu]

While you were in there, you shouldve just reflowed the solder. Through experience, not all dry joints are easily visible, and yes, the immobiliser can be turned off completely.

 

[fuzzy232]

Ive soldered mine and the fuel gauge still drops. Apprently its now doing 20 miles per quarter haha... Dont know what to do now as I still cant source any FR dash's!!

 

[mclay]

Ok cheers really didnt know what to solder though all the pins were connected to the board securely so didnt know where I was supposed to heat up never done anything like it before and didnt want to make it any worse think I will just get it disconected. Thanks for the info though much appreciated.

 

[clouty86]

Hi guys

iv done this today took no time at all to get the clocks out the dash, Then got a mates dad to solder it up thought this is just to easy, so i stick it all bach together as i went the hole hog and took needles of and everything, got it back in the dash every thing worked and it started first time BUT the fuel gauge was not working this took me forever to get the needle to sit it in the right place was nearly in tears by the time it worked, SO i got it back in and the dam temp had done the same and a red light flashes and sounds a beep, so iv got the temp working now to, but i have the 6 dial dash and when i first turn the car on the little oil guage down on the left hand side gos up for a few seconds then it drops away and thats when the light flashes and the beeps go off im at the end of my tether dose any one have any idea what i can do to fix this help would be good asap as im sitting in a shed with it in bits

 

[clouty86]

ok left the car to warm up and all gauges are working but this red light is still flashing and beeping is this the coolant level light

 

[muddyfox470]

ok left the car to warm up and all gauges are working but this red light is still flashing and beeping is this the coolant level light

Not trying to sound like a smart arse but check the cooloant level and see if thats ok. [Glad to hear that its working though]

 

[clouty86]

thanks coolant was fine, Ended up saying f##k it and took the hole thing to bits again getting the list off here that says what each pin is then finding and re solder all the coolant sender oil sender and level and FINNELY at 10.30 it worked!!!!

Well if i new of someone who would have done it for £50 like some on here i would tell them to crack at in the end it took me most of the day and a lot of stress!!! good luck anyone else that may take this on for me it was a night mare but the end result was very satisfying when i can jump in turn the key and it starts without hammering the dash!!

Definitely could not have even thought about taken this job on without this website so thanks everyone for the info

 

[Bondiblu]

thanks coolant was fine, Ended up saying f##k it and took the hole thing to bits again getting the list off here that says what each pin is then finding and re solder all the coolant sender oil sender and level and FINNELY at 10.30 it worked!!!!

Well if i new of someone who would have done it for £50 like some on here i would tell them to crack at in the end it took me most of the day and a lot of stress!!! good luck anyone else that may take this on for me it was a night mare but the end result was very satisfying when i can jump in turn the key and it starts without hammering the dash!!

Definitely could not have even thought about taken this job on without this website so thanks everyone for the info

Persistence pays off , good work.

To anyone else doing the job, I'll say it AGAIN. If you've got as far as removing the dash and checking the pins, save yourself the hastle and just resolder ALL of them (back of the green connector), even if they look ok.

 

[clouty86]

Persistence pays off , good work.

To anyone else doing the job, I'll say it AGAIN. If you've got as far as removing the dash and checking the pins, save yourself the hastle and just resolder ALL of them (back of the green connector), even if they look ok.

It sure dose everyone else said they would have chucked it out the door the amount of times i had it in and out sorting the needles lol got there in the end yes for sure make sure you go over every one even tho i had the guy go over them all i still had to do a few again

 

[fuzzy232]

Does resoldering 100% fix them? As my fuel gauge is still not working . Could it be the sensor in the tank

 

[moggytom]

Persistence pays off , good work.

To anyone else doing the job, I'll say it AGAIN. If you've got as far as removing the dash and checking the pins, save yourself the hastle and just resolder ALL of them (back of the green connector), even if they look ok.

Or get fr clocks fitted less soldering work and look miles better

 

[Bondiblu]

Does resoldering 100% fix them? As my fuel gauge is still not working . Could it be the sensor in the tank

Reflowing the solder will fix a dry joint, but it's possible the fault is elsewhere.