Running rough - coilpack?

tlewis14

Guest
Yeh what I would have done fora magnetic Allen key, I nearly lost a few bolts myself. Also had trouble getting the connections off the coilpacks, broke one of the clips! Pushed it back on and was quite snug so hope it stays on ok. I noticed it ticks over alot smoother than it did previously aswel. Happy with it just don't want them to go again soon as it cost me over a tank of fuels worth for parts and the hassle of doing it lol!

haha looks like its a common issue with how easy it is to get the holding bolts back in :rofl: i think i cracked one trying to get one off 2, its like u need baby hands to get in and to release the clip. got a daft Q for ya.... looking at the engine bay, what is the box between the air box and headlight? i only ask because ive neither the air box or the other box as ive some kind of cheap and nasty cold air feed induction kit and wanting to source the original equipment to put back in as i think the whole boy racer theme im getting to old for lol
 

8bit

Active Member
Feb 11, 2010
3,401
3
Aberdeen
Wd40 and tooth brush. Yes mate, also reset the ecu.

Did you remove the TB from the manifold?

Wynn's Carb Cleaner is better for this, if you left the TB on the manifold and used WD40 could it have been some of that getting in to the engine that upset it?
 

8bit

Active Member
Feb 11, 2010
3,401
3
Aberdeen
looking at the engine bay, what is the box between the air box and headlight? i only ask because ive neither the air box or the other box as ive some kind of cheap and nasty cold air feed induction kit and wanting to source the original equipment to put back in as i think the whole boy racer theme im getting to old for lol

That's the battery.
 

lmiller

Boost Junkie!
Aug 9, 2011
527
0
South East Kent
haha looks like its a common issue with how easy it is to get the holding bolts back in :rofl: i think i cracked one trying to get one off 2, its like u need baby hands to get in and to release the clip. got a daft Q for ya.... looking at the engine bay, what is the box between the air box and headlight? i only ask because ive neither the air box or the other box as ive some kind of cheap and nasty cold air feed induction kit and wanting to source the original equipment to put back in as i think the whole boy racer theme im getting to old for lol

As in there's nothing there? Can you put a picture up?
 

tlewis14

Guest
As in there's nothing there? Can you put a picture up?

ummm...... let me have a look and get back to you, maybe ive bypassed the sight of the battery because of how shite a part is claiming to be an air filter lol just had a look through service records and its called a 'dynatwist induction kit' if that means anything to anyone??
 

tlewis14

Guest
ummm...... let me have a look and get back to you, maybe ive bypassed the sight of the battery because of how shite a part is claiming to be an air filter lol just had a look through service records and its called a 'dynatwist induction kit' if that means anything to anyone??

yeah thats my battery, havent got a battery cover on it so that would explain why it looked different in other pics. new red coil packs came today from awsome gti and they do look smart. now have got to find time to change them. noticed today that each one has a different VMQ number on it, numbers ive got is 1,2,5 + 14 ?? just wondering if these make a slightest difference where they go. if a coil pack was to go completly would it put the engine management light up?
 

lmiller

Boost Junkie!
Aug 9, 2011
527
0
South East Kent
I didn't put myn in any sort of order, just chucked them in! I think it only throws a light if you boost it and it goes into limp mode because of the fault. As if I just started myn and drove slowly under 3k no management light came on but it had definantly gone as it was running on 3.
 

tlewis14

Guest
I didn't put myn in any sort of order, just chucked them in! I think it only throws a light if you boost it and it goes into limp mode because of the fault. As if I just started myn and drove slowly under 3k no management light came on but it had definantly gone as it was running on 3.

yea thats all i can do on flat ground is around 3k. any heavier under foot it plays up, well i went out to get some shopping last nite (around 4 mile) took it really steady and noticed when i got back the light was on permanent? fingers crossed the coil packs will sort this, had noticed just before i got home going up a slight gradient it started spluttering at 2 - 2.5k thats what made me think one had gone alltogether. cant wait to put them in, tempted to risk hypothermia and to them when i fin work with a inspection lamp.:D
 

lmiller

Boost Junkie!
Aug 9, 2011
527
0
South East Kent
yea thats all i can do on flat ground is around 3k. any heavier under foot it plays up, well i went out to get some shopping last nite (around 4 mile) took it really steady and noticed when i got back the light was on permanent? fingers crossed the coil packs will sort this, had noticed just before i got home going up a slight gradient it started spluttering at 2 - 2.5k thats what made me think one had gone alltogether. cant wait to put them in, tempted to risk hypothermia and to them when i fin work with a inspection lamp.:D

Apparently you shouldnt drive it with one gone as the fuel in that cylinder is not being burnt so it goes into your exhaust and can burn in there causing your catalytic converter to mess up! That's an expensive job!! You should fit em now, 20-30mins tops.
 

rsrich

Newbie
Aug 23, 2006
208
0
www.turnpikeracing.co.uk
Apparently you shouldnt drive it with one gone as the fuel in that cylinder is not being burnt so it goes into your exhaust and can burn in there causing your catalytic converter to mess up! That's an expensive job!! You should fit em now, 20-30mins tops.

Absolutely correct, don't drive any further than you really have to if a coil is gone. If you get stuck and you have to drive, then unplug the injector for that cylinder to stop the fuel going in. It will be hard to drive with one cylinder down, as it messes up the fuelling for the other 3 as the lambda sensor tries to compensate, but will get you home.
 

tlewis14

Guest
Absolutely correct, don't drive any further than you really have to if a coil is gone. If you get stuck and you have to drive, then unplug the injector for that cylinder to stop the fuel going in. It will be hard to drive with one cylinder down, as it messes up the fuelling for the other 3 as the lambda sensor tries to compensate, but will get you home.

well i have no intention of moving it until the new ones are fitted, so do you both think im correct in thinking the engine management light staying on would indicate coil pack failure as i cant stick it on a vag-com until at least monday. thanks for the advise tho both. gona fit my new dump valve at same time and fingers crossed isnt to much of a faf.
 

tlewis14

Guest
hopefully so, ive spent enough on the bloody thing and dont fancy spending much more. lol think im going to nick-name the car 'deep pockets' haha
 

tlewis14

Guest
i'd be pretty sure from what you say that it's coilpack that's set the light on yes.

all new coil packs i got from awesome gti, which have worked a treat all boost there as normal and smooth transition when boost kicks in. im guessing i need to stick the car on a vag-com to wipe the fault light?
 

tlewis14

Guest
all new coil packs i got from awesome gti, which have worked a treat all boost there as normal and smooth transition when boost kicks in. im guessing i need to stick the car on a vag-com to wipe the fault light?

also have a tip on getting the coil pack holding plate fixings out safely without losing them, i took the magnets off of old fridge magnets and attach them to the top part of a t-bar type allen key and this will create a magnetic edge to it.
 

lmiller

Boost Junkie!
Aug 9, 2011
527
0
South East Kent
also have a tip on getting the coil pack holding plate fixings out safely without losing them, i took the magnets off of old fridge magnets and attach them to the top part of a t-bar type allen key and this will create a magnetic edge to it.

I wish I had known this before I did myn lol
 

tlewis14

Guest
I wish I had known this before I did myn lol

haha sods law u get a tip now. getting sick of taking everything off again after the last fixing falls down under the vacuum holding bracket. got to get a couple of coil pack spares i think, and look at putting the required tools in tray in boot so i can do it road side. fun.com now just got to fit the dump valve which im leaving til' tomorrow as its -5 now and cant feel my toes:( lol
 

tlewis14

Guest
daft Question for anyone. fitted a forge split r dump valve today. instructions tell me how much to adjust the spring but not sure what stage re-map ive got as previous owner had it done, have rolling road results showing 284bhp any idea what stage this is? 1 or 2? im assuming 2 but without a boost gauge i wouldnt have a clue and boost feels not 100%
 

tlewis14

Guest
Sounds like a stage 2 mate. Does it not feel 100% since fitting the split r?

cool , cheers dude. no not really 100% no. just need to adjust the spring tension to get it right. instructions do say it may need slight adjustment either way to get it right. this is why im thinking about investing in the double gauge pillar mount to see the boost pressure.
 
Lecatona HPFP (High-pressure Fuel Pump Upgrades)