• Guest would you be interested in CUPRA or SEAT valve caps? let us know in the poll

  • Welcome to our new sponsor Lecatona, a brand dedicated to enhancing performance for VAG group sports cars, including SEAT, Audi, Volkswagen and Škoda. Specializing in High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) upgrades.

Water leak into footwell - dodgy seal info and DIY repair guide (Image links dead)

irishmanr26

Active Member
Jun 30, 2010
382
1
Ireland
Ive got an arm like a leg I tell ye! lol
I didnt even tighten it that much, it was just starting to tighten when it snapped and I cut the sh1t out of my finger!
It was one of the lower right hand side ones on the drivers door. Going to try and get the broken piece out of the door and put one of the bolts from higher up in its place.
Its definately had a chance to stick. I cleaned and dried the area and the butyl was sticky when I was putting it on. :)
 

SalSheikh

Under the Hood
Sep 2, 2009
2,760
5
Midlands, UK
i did exactly as Big Eck has shown but still getting leaks so doing the fronts again today. the rear doors are fine. i my double up the amount of butyl self adhesive strips to try and make it more water tight.
 
Feb 26, 2009
5,275
1
Wolverhampton
i did exactly as Big Eck has shown but still getting leaks so doing the fronts again today. the rear doors are fine. i my double up the amount of butyl self adhesive strips to try and make it more water tight.

Quantity isn't a substitute for quality, just adding more may not make it better. Make sure that the carrier and the door panel edge are clean and the butyl has a smooth surface to stick to. As you're tightening the bolts, check that the butyl 'oozes' slightly.

Might also be worth checking your speaker mountings and the air filter lid, in case the water is getting in there instead.
 

big eck

Active Member
Aug 11, 2005
3,976
2
Falkirk, Scotland
My Butyl should be here tomorrow (I hope) as my rear is absolutly soaking now. The towels i'm using to try and soak up the water are being totally drenched in a matter of hours :( even the fronts have a small run of water today.
 
Feb 26, 2009
5,275
1
Wolverhampton
My Butyl should be here tomorrow (I hope) as my rear is absolutly soaking now. The towels i'm using to try and soak up the water are being totally drenched in a matter of hours :( even the fronts have a small run of water today.

Fingers crossed mate, let me know if you don't get it although we are at the mercy of Royal Mail.
 

DubSteve68

Active Member
Nov 4, 2010
125
6
Up North
Ive got an arm like a leg I tell ye! lol
I didnt even tighten it that much, it was just starting to tighten when it snapped and I cut the sh1t out of my finger!
It was one of the lower right hand side ones on the drivers door. Going to try and get the broken piece out of the door and put one of the bolts from higher up in its place.
Its definately had a chance to stick. I cleaned and dried the area and the butyl was sticky when I was putting it on. :)
Arm like a leg - most amused :) Reckon you may get away with it though as you say you did a decent clean up. Shouldn't be any challenge to drill/extract the old bolt if you need to though ;)

i did exactly as Big Eck has shown but still getting leaks so doing the fronts again today. the rear doors are fine. i my double up the amount of butyl self adhesive strips to try and make it more water tight.
Big Eck's post? No disrespect to the big fella but check whose name is at the bottom of the guide hehe ;)

Quantity isn't a substitute for quality, just adding more may not make it better. Make sure that the carrier and the door panel edge are clean and the butyl has a smooth surface to stick to. As you're tightening the bolts, check that the butyl 'oozes' slightly.

Might also be worth checking your speaker mountings and the air filter lid, in case the water is getting in there instead.
Good point - with the door card off check around the lower half of the speaker for any obvious water marks on the paint. I've not tried it myself yet (although plan to as one of the factory speakers is knackered) but the butyl should work just as well for sealing the speakers to the carrier panel.

BTW as it's getting colder and wetter it's going to be more of a pain to dry these cars out quickly. One way is pull the carpets out, the other is run a dehumidifier overnight for a few nights. If anybody in the Lancashire area needs a dehumidifier mine is up for grabs as I no longer need it. Don't want silly money for it and it will shift the damp out in no time - and don't be tempted by cheapo "rechargeable" dehumidifiers, they have silica or similar crystals that absorb moisture passively (the rechargeable bit refers to a heater element that dries the crystals out again) and aren't designed to shift any volume of water. PM me if interested ;)

DubSteve :)
 

SalSheikh

Under the Hood
Sep 2, 2009
2,760
5
Midlands, UK
Sorry Steve, i read the post that big eck did and assumed he did the write up...didnt read the ending so apologies :doh:

it was a bitch to redo the doors (the butyl stuff had stuck the door on), but i doubled up on the strip and made sure it has oozed out on the door panels. the water used to sit on the sills so will find out soon enough if its worked.
 
Feb 26, 2009
5,275
1
Wolverhampton
and made sure it has oozed out on the door panels. the water used to sit on the sills so will find out soon enough if its worked.

Ooze is good, it means the strip is being compressed and is filling the gaps. Wet sills used to be my issue, now they are bone dry even after torrential rain.:clap:
 

DubSteve68

Active Member
Nov 4, 2010
125
6
Up North
Sorry Steve, i read the post that big eck did and assumed he did the write up...didnt read the ending so apologies :doh:

it was a bitch to redo the doors (the butyl stuff had stuck the door on), but i doubled up on the strip and made sure it has oozed out on the door panels. the water used to sit on the sills so will find out soon enough if its worked.
Hehe no worries mate ;) Might help to take the door card off and sit in the car with the door shut while someone else gives the door a proper good soaking with a hose pipe or even a jetwash, that way you'll be able to see exactly where it's coming in if you still have a leak. Definitely check around the speaker pod and the various other seals on the carrier panel for any water marks...

DubSteve :)
 

bladegash

Guest
Hi guys please help a new Seat owner here. I just want to let you all know that my english is pretty bad. My Leon have leaky doors and i bought the seal from vag. I read the guide and tried to fix the drivers door. I removed all the screws, only leaving the top two as the guide said but i cant find enough space to completly replace the seal. However the doors still leaks and i was thinking to redo it again but this time i want to remove the carrier completly. As i said my english is not that good and i didnt understand how to remove the carrier after reading the pages. Could someone please explain this to me?
 
Feb 26, 2009
5,275
1
Wolverhampton
Which part didn't you understand and we can try and make it a bit clearer?

Once the door lock is free (three bolts on the edge of the door), the door handle is unlatched (small screw in the door), and the glass is taped up (undo the two clamps through the holes, wind the window up, tape it to the frame, wind the clamps back down), then the carrier just comes out.

It is easier if you read the description while you do the door, then it all makes sense.
 

bladegash

Guest
Okey i will try this :) Where is the small screw to unlatch the door handle located? Is it difficult to but the carrier back together afterwards? I would rather not remove the carrier completly but there is not enough space to replace the seal. I only managed to replace the lower half of it and it still leaks. If the only way is to remove the carrier i quess i will just have to do this. Just affraid i wont be able to refit everything.
 
Feb 26, 2009
5,275
1
Wolverhampton
On the edge of the door, there is a plastic cap that is prised off. Behind that, about two inches into the door is a screw that releases the door handle. Once it's released, then you can pull on the door handle and remove the lock release cable.

And no it's not difficult to put it back together again, the door is so well built that it will all line up with no issues. Then you just put all the bolts back in. Wind the window mechanism up, release the tape on the window then gently lower it back down until the clamps are visible.
 

bladegash

Guest
Thanks alot for your answers. Btw i have electronic windows (or whatever its called), any diffrences?
 

LEE69

Stage 2 Revo'd
Dec 10, 2004
21,262
74
C\UK\Devon\Torquay
Wooooooooooooooooooooow

You don't need to remove the lock just pop out the two plastic pins on the carrier panel.
 
Last edited:

LEE69

Stage 2 Revo'd
Dec 10, 2004
21,262
74
C\UK\Devon\Torquay
FrontDoorBoltspins.jpg
[/IMG]
 
Last edited:

bladegash

Guest
Lee69: Whats are these two plastic pins for and what happens once i pop them out?
 

LEE69

Stage 2 Revo'd
Dec 10, 2004
21,262
74
C\UK\Devon\Torquay
Look at the above picture i put a few red arrows to point to them, thought i did enough :roflmao:

You just push the centres through, they fall into the door, then you retrieve them when the carrier panel is removed.
 

bladegash

Guest
Yes but does that mean that once the pins are poped out and all bolts around the carrier are released the carrier comes out?
 
Genuine SEAT Parts and Accessories.