Leon Cupra R AWD PPT5935R E85 build
- Thread starter Gulfstream
- Start date
I'm planning on doing the same with my battery as the additional weight of the extended lines to the boot for me doesn't make sense. Small battery in the OEM position for me too.
Interestingly the new ibiza cupra has its battery in the spare wheel well from the factory.
Interestingly the new ibiza cupra has its battery in the spare wheel well from the factory.
in the beginning I thought Id move it to the boot as well for the weight distribution benefits, but then I realized voltage drop is an issue and also a yellow top is only 11kg.. pros and cons added up I kept it up front.
What does a typical OE battery weigh in comparison?
And not being familiar with "yellow top",what make is this and does it operate/perform the same as OE type battery?
its half the weight and its a dry cell design with deep cycle capabilities. If you run it all empty you can recharge it back to 100% again overnight. Its called Optima Yellow Top and they come in all kind of version. I got the lightest 12V one. Has 460 linear CCA or thereabout and its plenty for my car. I like it.
Excuse my ignorance in advance as my battery knowledge is well-limited!!
1.Does the alternator charge up battery as usual when car running?
2.Would it hold enough charge to start the car if car left a few weeks at a time in garage without being run? [as I often do this]
3.What does the 460 linear CCA refer to and how does this compare to typical OE battery?
4.Is there any obvious sign when battery is getting low and needs recharging?
Appreciate your/anyones knowledge on these points
Optima do red and yellow types
Red is more race orientated from memory and yellow are improved OE replacements
These are both dry cell batteries and will be lighter than OE
They both can give higher cranking currents
I have heard of the red type batteries needing to be charged/engine run every week or else they go flat, but yellow should be fine
Red is more race orientated from memory and yellow are improved OE replacements
These are both dry cell batteries and will be lighter than OE
They both can give higher cranking currents
I have heard of the red type batteries needing to be charged/engine run every week or else they go flat, but yellow should be fine
im no guru either. Going from some battery guy I know the design of yellow top is to provide the specific CCA until its completely dead. Doesnt fade... or how to word it... it just dies. Then IF it dies you can completely recharge it as its a deep cycle. I leave it for 3-4 weeks and it cranks right up. I only took it bcs that was the lightest high CCA I could find.
Thanks for replies.
So to clarify yellow one is the one to use if not wanting to have to recharge it if car left for a month or so BUT so i'm clear on it,if car is being run at least every month or so is alternator charging up as it would standard battery whilst car running? In other words using a normal battery i never have to additionally recharge battery,its just a normal fit and forget item for several years until they basically give up,are these used in the same way or is additional charging required?
Assuming connections the same,are they wired up exactly as standard item?
So to clarify yellow one is the one to use if not wanting to have to recharge it if car left for a month or so BUT so i'm clear on it,if car is being run at least every month or so is alternator charging up as it would standard battery whilst car running? In other words using a normal battery i never have to additionally recharge battery,its just a normal fit and forget item for several years until they basically give up,are these used in the same way or is additional charging required?
Assuming connections the same,are they wired up exactly as standard item?
For yellow top yes, same principal as OE setup and wired the same
It is a direct replacement
Do you know what your actual part number was as there seems to be several showing for the 12V,460 linear CCA one even on Optima's own website..
Optima website mentions:-
YTS2.7
YTR2.7 also both the same again but with "J" on end which I gues stands for Jap connection? Then also listed as:-
D51
D51R
Do you know what your actual part number was as there seems to be several showing for the 12V,460 linear CCA one even on Optima's own website..
Optima website mentions:-
YTS2.7
YTR2.7 also both the same again but with "J" on end which I gues stands for Jap connection? Then also listed as:-
D51
D51R
I can check when Im back home. In NY now.
LEO-RS
Guest
Any indication of your 0-100km/h 0-160km/h 0-200km/h and 1/4m times?
Is it a case of too much power now where there is no improvement to performance because of slippage?
Has an S3 type conversion been done on an LCR before to make it 4wd? Im sure it wouldn't be too difficult to do.
Is it a case of too much power now where there is no improvement to performance because of slippage?
Has an S3 type conversion been done on an LCR before to make it 4wd? Im sure it wouldn't be too difficult to do.
There's been a couple of threads on this, it sounds like a lot of work - major floorpan changes for a start. By the time you've done it you'd have been as well off just buying an S3 and doing the same engine mods in the first place.
I dont care about 0- anything. I built this car for trackday fun. If I wanted a strip warrior Id get a 4WD something.
Ill try 1/4 this summer just for fun if I run across it somewhere. I dont have race slicks yet, next summer project.
and trackday is what we do. Here I have just installed WMI kit and running a 515cc (400bhp) nozzle. The racemap on Eurodyne ME7 advanced timing by approx 8 degrees which was a tad too much. I got some knock after the first laps so I backed timing 2.25 degrees from race setting and changed the progressive curve on the WMI injection and things looked alot better. I also ran it at low boost around 22-23psi since its the first time on track with new motor. Smilies for miles
The AEM kit also included a 315cc nozzle for applications over 400bhp and I see I need to install that as well..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQAM8gloWTA
The AEM kit also included a 315cc nozzle for applications over 400bhp and I see I need to install that as well..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQAM8gloWTA
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