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RDS' Leon Cupra R
- Thread starter RDS
- Start date
as you have done the n249 bypass you can remove all the crap off the rocker cover
you have to keep the n249 plugged in but you can remove all the pipe work from it. you can just make out my n249 valve to the left hand side of the blocked off hose under the lining. looks much neater imho.
you have to keep the n249 plugged in but you can remove all the pipe work from it. you can just make out my n249 valve to the left hand side of the blocked off hose under the lining. looks much neater imho.
Great read, you have obviously been doing some reading up on mods etc.
Car shaping up nicely, keep up the good work
Car shaping up nicely, keep up the good work
as you have done the n249 bypass you can remove all the crap off the rocker cover
you have to keep the n249 plugged in but you can remove all the pipe work from it. you can just make out my n249 valve to the left hand side of the blocked off hose under the lining. looks much neater imho.
Right for me this is a must do now, look at the easy access to the coil packs!
also great build here
as you have done the n249 bypass you can remove all the crap off the rocker cover
you have to keep the n249 plugged in but you can remove all the pipe work from it. you can just make out my n249 valve to the left hand side of the blocked off hose under the lining. looks much neater imho.
Yours is looking awesome mate! Got a question for you.
In the picture below, what have you done with the pipe thats pointed to with the red arrow? (where does it come from?):
If I remember correctly dont you also have to replace the grey box with a resistor? Sorry to be a pain mate but how and what?
Cheers mate, The search option in the mk1 Leon forum has been a great help. Along with peoples build threads.
Just wish I had more time and money
And in the box...............................................
TX Autosport FMIC.
Having queried it with a few and seen sambryant defend it to the death I decided the money saving over the Forge FMIC couldnt be ignored.
Just need to find time between working full time and college to get it fitted.
TX Autosport FMIC.
Having queried it with a few and seen sambryant defend it to the death
I decided the money saving over the Forge FMIC couldnt be ignored.Just need to find time between working full time and college to get it fitted.
Nice purchase mate, front mounts are a must. Even on my OEM map I have seen a difference I'd recommend beading up the ends of the hard pipes so you don't have no issues with them popping off
I'd recommend beading up the ends of the hard pipes so you don't have no issues with them popping off
Nice purchase mate, front mounts are a must. Even on my OEM map I have seen a difference
Thats what the JB Weld's fo mate
cant wait to get it on.I was exactly the same but having asked around I've never heard a bad thing said about the TX FMIC and t0m is running 300bhp and alot of torque with his. It may be shorter then the Forge one but its deeper and doesnt sit behind the crash bar so its mostly exposed to the airflow.
I'll let you know how it goes.
I like this thread bud, all i need now for ine is the TX autosport front mount and exhaust then mine will be complete also.
I have to say, i had the exact same problem with the hid ballast faling off too. Mine fell right down and to the left of the charge pipe, and it was wedged. Needless to say the surface of the ballast was fooked to say the least, but ive positioned it so no one knows the truth lol
I have to say, i had the exact same problem with the hid ballast faling off too. Mine fell right down and to the left of the charge pipe, and it was wedged. Needless to say the surface of the ballast was fooked to say the least, but ive positioned it so no one knows the truth lol
TX kit is great. Does exactly what it's meant to and reduces intake temps by 10-15 degrees average as my runs showed last year during the summer.
I would get ALL metal pipework beaded before you fit it. Then have all clamps machine tightened so you don't go through what I did.
Works a treat now, but I've had boost leaks from top of the kit down to the bottom because they're not beaded and it was hand tightened.
I would get ALL metal pipework beaded before you fit it. Then have all clamps machine tightened so you don't go through what I did.
Works a treat now, but I've had boost leaks from top of the kit down to the bottom because they're not beaded and it was hand tightened.
Cheers mate, got to say I love your motor it definatley sparked the modding bug for me
look forward to seeing any future progress you make.One of the best things about being on the forum is I can keep an eye on what others do and learn a trick or two.
All the pipework will get the JB Weld treatment like this I'll probably paint them black aswell so they cant be seen behind the foglight grilles.
I've fitted one of these to mine. Unless you have relocated the battery you will need to cut a small section out of the battery tray to allow this to fit.Another thing to get fitted and mark off the todo list
Forge Map Pipe.
Make sure you have the adaptor to allow your OEM MAP sensor to fit as the LCR one is smaller OD to the other VAG ones.
Also couldn't get the OEM MAP sensor out of the OEM MAP pipe so watch out for this too
Cheers for the info mate. Does this look about right for the adaptor:
I'll be chopping the battery tray to fit this.
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