-
Welcome to our new sponsor Lecatona, a brand dedicated to enhancing performance for VAG group sports cars, including SEAT, Audi, Volkswagen and Škoda. Specializing in High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) upgrades.
-
The forums will be offline for maintenance on Friday 15th November at 10pm for up to an hour. Thank you for your patience.
Audi S3 GT3582R stroker Build (previously GT3071r)
- Thread starter tufftybloke
- Start date
I will be doing some logging on the way home now I am happy the boost is under control.... I got 256gs in second gear while driving around the block last night while testing the MBC bypass was working ok... didn't rev past about 6.5k though and wasn't quite full throttle...
Will post results later..
<tuffty/>
Is that a photoshop?
No mate... its the actual hose... the real irony here is that they actually made and shipped the thing yesterday... just took them 3 weeks to read up how to do that
<tuffty/>
i make that 365bhp,what boost you running? i always find i get higher readings if i do runs in 4th gear rather than 3rd?Quick log from the trip home from work...
<tuffty/>
Actuator pressure which starts off at about 0.7bar but I am getting a bit of boost creep (gets to 1.5bar at just over 7k rpm) and (like a muppet!) I didn't check the preload of the actuator after CR rebuilt the turbo... thinking it maybe a bit much...
Going to get the car on the dyno tomorrow after checking the actuator and fitting the new hose... I have currently removed the ceramic ball and spring from the UNOS boost controller I am using as I didn't have a hose joiner handy... this may also be contributing to the boost creep... will be running the car on the dyno with an adjusted actuator preload and actuator pressure then look at sorting the MBC out so it works ok although I am hopeful that adjusting the preload should sort the boost spike I had earlier out...
The car will be run in 5th for the dyno runs
<tuffty/>
paul-murphys
efr 6758 here i come
paul-murphys
efr 6758 here i come
cheers bill and im guessing when setting a actuator up i dont want pre load just tighten the nut so the wastegates closed. as the actuators hard to pull by hand
personally i recommend minimum tension, ie just enough to hold wastegate shut and no more. Use a hand / foot pump with a gauge to measure the pressure needed to initiate first movements, ideally no more than 10 psi for k04 hybrid but more usual to see 1 bar for th gt28rs big turbo's etc.
paul-murphys
efr 6758 here i come
what you mean by this mate, what am i meant to pump up? i will put the nut on the actuator so its just closed. will stick up a pic when i go it so no i done it right
just connect the nipple / port on the actuator to the pump via a piece of 4mm tube and check the opening pressure.
paul-murphys
efr 6758 here i come
Sorry, did have the car on the dyno last Friday just to do some logs and see whats what (thanks Bill) and there are a few things to sort out.... Firstly there didn't appear to be any preload on the actuator and the actuator itself is a higher rated one that I had on previously and I was getting boost creep at high revs.... I adjusted this and hoping the actuator will go a bit softer (which they do) after a little while... using the softer of the 2 springs on the UNOS and getting a steady 1.5 bar but.... did a check on the boost pre FMIC and after (manifold pressure) and there is quite a drop... some can be attributed to the FMIC itself which is normal but a little higher than expected but there is a big difference at lower RPM as the turbo spools.... Bill has all the logs and the figures etc so I cannot really say much more than that at the moment but one thing he does think is an issue is I could be losing boost through the DV initially then after its caught up with itself all is better... so I have now fitted a white spring (red in there before), Bill had to do this to Indies Leon recently... haven't tested this yet though...
Bill also found that I was getting no timing pull so dialled in more timing advance and was upping the power all the time until the ECU had a paddy and pulled 11's!!!! not good!
So just reset back to 0 additional advance (over what the map has) and going to start again... the fuelling isn't too bad, wideband lambda helps out a bit here too... it is going very rich at high RPM though killing the power which is a shame... this could well be map related...
Basically spent the afternoon gathering data to see where the map needs tweaking and to see why power is still a little off... few more things to try bearing in mind the map wasn't quite finished before and I have changed quite a bit of the engines characteristics now with the large port head and larger turbine etc so its to be expected...
Car is running ok normally although a little iffy under boost atm... didn't show so much on the dyno but on the road its noticable... back on actuator pressure with a bit of boost creep... should have ported the wastegate while the turbo was off really but during the dyno tests the boost didn't go above 1.5ish bar anyway so thats prob where it will end up so not so bothered... if it becomes a prob or I am in a position where the head needs to come off again then I will look at sorting the wastegate then..
This week has been a bit of a write off tbh as my daughter has dislodged her knee cap and the missus is out most evenings so not been down the unit much plus Bill has a bit of work on so as the car is running ok I am happy to wait until he has 5 mins to have a go at the mapping...
Couple of shots of the engine bay with the SFS hose fitted...
<tuffty/>
Similar threads
Model Year 20/21
Creak from steering at low speed / stationary
