Thanks Indy, The KWs are awesome (but quite firm for everyday use). The Team Dynamics are ET30, so no spacers required and sit out about 5mm further than the standard LCR alloys
Thanks Indy, The KWs are awesome (but quite firm for everyday use). The Team Dynamics are ET30, so no spacers required and sit out about 5mm further than the standard LCR alloys
Correct me if I'm wrong, the standard offset is ET38 and going further away will inrease body roll right?
I have a set of Rota alloys which are alittle bit lighter than Team Dynamics and these have an offset of ET35. I've had my car corner weighted to balance the setup so I'm hoping it should better now on the track.
Yes, I agree, but I don't think the wider track has any really significant effect on the body roll. This has been dealt with by the uprated ARBs (the clue's in the name!!). But the wider track certainly seemed to eliminate oversteer and handling became a whole lot more neutral.
really? You don't think that it'll increase the moment on the axle? and therefore increase it...
But isn't the axle part of the unsprung weight whereas the body roll is all in the sprung mass of the vehicle? I'm no expert on this, and it's an interesting theory what ever the correct answer is. Time to start "googling" methinks
googling or remembering GCSE Physics
I got a B in GCSE physics and I do have a first class degree in mechanical engineering but I still don't remember the maths!!
Look at this though
4. Weight Transfer due to body roll
Body roll also introduces weight transfer thus reduction of total grip. Let's see the following drawing :
The lateral displacement of center of gravity (CG) is d. If we again use the Boxster example (track width 1600 mm, height of CG 500 mm, weight 1250 kg), if it rolls 10 degrees when cornering, d will be 500 x sin10° = 86.8 mm. Then the load of the outside wheels can be calculated as: ( 1250 x ( 800 + 86.8 ) ) / 1600 = 693 kg while the inside wheels take 557 kg. So there is 68 kg weight transfer. Although it is not a great amount compare with the weight transfer due to lateral acceleration, its influence should not be ignored because camber change exists in this case.
We want to keep the body roll to an adequate level. We can use stiffer spring and anti-roll bar to reduce roll in the price of ride comfort. We can move the roll center, which is determined by the suspension geometry, as close to the CG as possible so that the roll moment is largely reduced, but this has a very bad drawback - a large jerking force will be generated and jerk up the body thus raise the CG. Alternatively, we could leave the body roll alone and try to lower the CG, so the weight transfer is also reduced.
After all, I don't recommend to eliminate body roll, since it is an important signal to tell us how well the car enters a corner and how close it approaches its limit. Body roll is a kind of feedback.
In this example, if you increase the track by 16mm weight transfer is reduced from 68kg to 60.5kg thus reducing body roll.
Its all a bit geeky really isn't it
Lamin X now applied
So, today I decided to Lamin-X my headlights. For those who don't know this is an adhesive film applied over the existing lense. There are various tints and shades available from just clear through to blue and yellow, as well as a red that can be fitted on the rear lights.
I decided to go for a light smoke as I felt the dark tint might look a bit too chavvy. I wasn't certain that even the light tint might look a bit dodgy but thought I'd have a go and decide later.
The kit can be ordered in various sizes of film and you get a snap off bladed knife and a plastic spreader in the kit too. All in for £22 which I thought was pretty good.
First impression was surprise at how thick the film is. Must be about 1mm thick which is why I guess it's sold as a protective covering for lights amongst the motorsport fraternity.
Application is straightforward enough if you can pinch your wife's hairdryer for half an hour!
One side done
Job done
So, today I decided to Lamin-X my headlights. For those who don't know this is an adhesive film applied over the existing lense. There are various tints and shades available from just clear through to blue and yellow, as well as a red that can be fitted on the rear lights.
I decided to go for a light smoke as I felt the dark tint might look a bit too chavvy. I wasn't certain that even the light tint might look a bit dodgy but thought I'd have a go and decide later.
The kit can be ordered in various sizes of film and you get a snap off bladed knife and a plastic spreader in the kit too. All in for £22 which I thought was pretty good.
First impression was surprise at how thick the film is. Must be about 1mm thick which is why I guess it's sold as a protective covering for lights amongst the motorsport fraternity.
Application is straightforward enough if you can pinch your wife's hairdryer for half an hour!
One side done
Job done
Looks good was goin to do exactly the same on my car as did it on my polo. Did you just do the front with the lights in the car or did you take the lights out and do it to the edge of each lense ?
My polo :
My polo :
I left the lights in as I wasn't sure if I would like it or not. And as removing the lights involves removing the front bumper I didn't want to get that involved in case I was taking it straight off again!
I think I like it though
I think I like it though
I haven't done it yet myself, its on the list to do at some point. I'm off to Snetterton again in a month but I'm dying to try some different tracks. Half the fun of it is learning new ones.
Let me know when you are at Snett Robert, I'm only 10mins down the road, I'll come along and watch; can't trac mine at the minute as all funds are saved for the 'ring in July!
Will do Danny, it's looking like Friday 2nd July at the moment. Waiting for confirmation from a mate that he can do it and then we'll be booking later today.
Similar threads
